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I • I
THE
FLORAL WORLD
AND
GARDEN GUIDE.
VOLUME I.
LONDON
GROOMBEIDGE AND SONS,
5, PATERNOSTER ROW.
1858.
LONDON'; I'lMMIli BY C.ROOMBRWGE BROTHERS.
CONTENTS.
PASS.
About Ivy 131
Allotment Culture of Root-crops . . 2-19-250
Amateurs' Preservative Pit .. .. 17
American Blight, remedy for .. .. 28
American Couit'crs 241-245-246
Annuals to Sow in February .. •• 47
Ants ami Aphides .. .. •• .. 234
Arbor Vitas 247
Artichokes 883
Australian Lily 12C
Azaleas, to propagate 142
Agave Americana .. .. .. •• 167
Azaleas done Blooming .. .. .. l'*f»
Balcony in the City, Planting of . . . . 142
Beaton's Experiments on Vine Culture .. 5-33
Bee-keeping, new Inventions in .. .. 168
Beds for the Ranunculus 41
Bedding-stock, to increase .. - . .. 92
Bedding-plants, to preserve .. .. 230
Begin at the Beginning .. .. .. 100
Hi irberis Japoniea .. .. .. .. 56
Blackberry and Raspberry Hybrid .. 2ti2
Boile a liouppc .. .. . . .. 16
Boyd's Adjusting Scythe .. .. .. 163
Bouvardias, to Propagate .. .. .. 83
Broome on the Chrvsanthcmimi .. .. 87
Brown, Dr. R., life of 146
Uucklauu's Sweet-water Grape .. .. 201
Budding, remarks on . . . . . . 1 63
Budding the Hose 183-188
Bulbs, to Purchase and Plant . . 250-257
Cacti, and Botanical Classifications . . 10s
Calceolaria Culture .. .. ., .. 114
Calla ^Ethiopica, treatment of .. .. 120
Calceolarias in Winter .. .. ,. 263
Callfornian Conifers 241-240
Camellia, propagation of .. .. .. 190
Camellias, to Retard 263
Camellias at Sydenham .. .. .. 75
Camellias done Blooming .. .. .. 45-09
Canterbury I Ioe .. .. .. .. 102
Carrot, Varieties and Culture of . . . . lii'J
Causes of failure in Greenhouse Manage- ment .. . . .. 238
Charred rubbish for surface-dressing . . 238
Cheap Preservative Pit .. .. .. 17
Cheap Greenhouse . . . . . . . . 203
Chinese Primula 70-77
Chinese Potatoe .. .. .. .. 81
Chrysanthemum Culture .. ., 67-0U-87-251
Cinerarias, to propagate .. .. .. 141
Climbers for Greenhouse .. .. .. 23
Climbers for North Walls 24
Climbers for West Walls .. ,. . .. 52
Climbing Ferns .. .. .. .. 148
>mbs, to grow .. .. .. 143
Cold Pit sunk below the Level . . . . 263
Coniferous Trees and Shrubs , . . . 241
Conifers at Sew ' . .. ., ... 25
Crystal Palace Blower Shows . . 125-124
Cucumber deed .. 71
Cucumber and Melon Culture .. .. 82
Cuero Guano 103
Cultivation of Annuals .. .. .. 64
Culture and Training of the Raspberry .. 31
Custard Marrow, to tirovf .. .. .. 82
Cuttings, how to Make, and how to Strike
them 202-213-215
Cuttings, Propagating pot for .. .. 152
Daddy Longlegs 142
Dahlia Culture .. .. .. .. 107
Dahlia Show, Great National . . 217-221-200
Dahlias, List of Winning Flowers .. 260
Delphinium formosum, and ilendersonii 239
Daodara cedar . . . . . . . , 245
Dielytra spectabi lis seed .. .. .. |02
Dioscorca Battatas . . . . . , . . 81
Draining an Orchard, necessity of . . 28
PAGE
Drying Plants and Flowers .. .. 83
Dung-bed too hot .. . . .. .. 119
Early Planting, its advantages . . . . 250
Edgings for Gardens 42
Editor's address I
Embothrium coccineum 12?
Eugenia Ugni .. .. . . .. 47
Euphorbia Fulgcns 108
Evergreen Flowering Shrubs . . . . 15
Evergreens recently planted .. .. 240
Experimental Vine Pruning .. .. 33
Exhausted hot-bed, to manage .. .. 141
Fairy Rings, cause of .. ., .. 118
Ferns — British and Exotic . . . . 8
Ferns in a Wardian Case .. .. st
Ferrassier's Patent Wheelbarrow . . . . 69
Fig Tree in Fruit &W
Floral Pyramid .. .. .. .. Iflo
Florists' Flowers -the Cineraria .. . . 14
Flowers in the City 251-268
Flowers to Dry .. .. .. .. 47
Flower-pots, newly invented .. .. 152
Fruits, New Varieties of Merit . . . . 261
Fruit-room, Management of .. .. 860
Fruit-trees, improving collections of .. 28
Fruiting Vines in Greenhouse . . . . 94
Fuchsias, to bloom Seedlings .. .. 179
Fumigating, Simple Mode of .. .. 264
Garden and Greenhouse Work : —
January .. . .. .. .. 21
February ., .. .. .. .. 44
March 70
April 90
May 113
June 139
July 101
August 189
September .. .. .. .. .. 212
October 236
November .. .. .. .. .. 256
December . . . . 271
Garden Plans .. 70-85
Garden Tools, improved 46
Garden Statuary, to clean 143
Gardener's review of the past year . . 3
Genista Canadensis .. .. .. .. 55
Geographical Distribution of the Pine
Family 241-242
Geraniums for Winter blooming .. 202-213
Glasses for Hyacinths 206
Grapes, Shrivelled 203
Grape Vines in pots .. .. .. .. 273
Grasses, Grass-plots, and Lawns . . . . GO
Green- fly on peaches, <fcc „. 126
Greenhouse, substitute for .. .. 230-239
Greenhouse Plants, new 30
Greenhouse Piants in Winter .. .. 22
Greens, to Secure in Winter . . . . 251
Given Manures .. .. .. .. 100
Grocer's currants for heating . . . . 143
Gooseberry Culture 252
Guano, and its uses .. 159
Gynerium argeuteum . . . . . . 61
Hardy Evergreen flowering Shrubs .. 129 Hardy Crapes for Walls and Greenhouses 261 Hardy Perennials for Blooming in the Bor- ders 214
I-Iaj thorn's Hexagon Garden Nets . . 89 Beating by Gas ..35-143-191-196-239-248-275
Hedgehogs destructive in a Greenhouse . . 235
Heliotropes 282
Her Majesty's Fruit Basket .. .. 141
Hoeing and Mowing . . . . . . . . 162
Holcus saccharatus; or, Chinese Sugar-cane 127
Hollies, to raise from Seed . . . . . . 2 k)
Hollyhock, Culture of .. .. 188-192
Hollyhock Seed, to Save 215
Hot- water Heating . . . . . . 70
IV.
COKTENTS.
PAGE.
How to make a Hot-bed .. .. . 71
How to dig 100-179
House Refuse, uses of 101
Humea Elegans, is it Poisonous ? . . .'. 239 I
Huyshe's Victoria Pear . . . . ,. 203 |
Hybridizing, the art of Ill
Hyacinths in Summer 144
Hyacinths, list of sorts 233
Insects, treatment of .. .. .. 184
Improvement of Old Gardens . . . . 20
Ivy, its History, Culture, &c 131
Jardinieres of Moslac Glass . . . . 153
Junipers for Ornamental Planting , . 247
Kalmia latifolia .. 15
Keeping out Frost 24
Kitchen Crops, destruction of .. .. 191
Laburnum Blooming in Autumn .. .. 240
Lancashire Gooseberries, list of . , . . 254
Latter on the Culture of Primulas . . 77
Lattice Plant 148
Lawn with Beds 203
Lawns, to make and improve .. .. 60
Laying out a Garden 19-80
Leaves, value of, for manure . . . . 80 Leptodactylon Californicum .. 127-221
Lily of the Valley Culture 215
Linnajan Society's transactions .. .. 7
Lois Wecdon's System of Agriculture . . 78
London Gardens .. .. .. .. 49-251
Lycopods in Wardian Case .. .. 12
Manures, to Manage . . . . 257
Manures and Town Plots 103
Marrows, Pumpkins, and Squashes . . 70-82
Melon Culture 107-192
Mespilus Japonica . . . . . . . . 207
Meteorology of the Months 24-48-72-06-120-144
168-102-210-240-208-284
Mildew in the Vine and Potatoe . . . . 5
Monstrosities in British Vegetation .. 7
Mountain Vegetatioii 243
Mushroom Culture 143-207-234
Platform Planting of Fruit Trees . .
I'latyloma Geraniifolia .. ..
Pleasures of a Kitchen Garden
Pomegranates in Pots
Pomological Society .,
Potatoe Disease and its remedy
Potatoe Sets . . 71-224
PAGE.
167
8
92
47
7-27
5
Myrtle Pruning . . 283
New method of Growing Peas in dry
weather 165
New Chrysanthemums 75
New Stove and Greenhouse Plants . . 30
New Dahlias 70
New Fruits 84
New Plants described 180
Night Soil, uses and preparation of . . 159
North Aspect, uses of . . . . . . 22
Novel Continental Fruits and Vegetables 77
Oleanders, treatment and varieties of .. 239
Old Walls 150
Orchard, draining and recovery of . . 28
Ornamental Foliage Plants 95
Out-door Grapes 107
Pampas Grass .. .. .. . . 01
Parsnip, varieties and Culture of .. . . 250
Passiflora ccerulea . . . . . . . . 239
Pawlonia Imperialis, Culture of .. .. 151
Peaches Ripened on Standards . . 201-202
Pears of unusual weight 4
Pear Trees Failing 107
Peas, list of early . . 21
Pegging-down, the best method of .. 151
Pelargonium La Belle Alliance . . . . 76
Pelargonium, culture of .. .. .. 82
Phloxes for Border Culture . . . . 203
Phloxes, a dozen good . . . . . . 47
Picturesque effects of Gardening . . . . 39
Pines distinguished for grace and beauty 247
Plan of a Town Garden 36
Planning a Kitchen Garden . . . . . . 18
Planting Season and its Work .. .. 256
Planting a Fern Vase 9
Planting the Ranunculus 41
Planting for Pictorial EU'ect .. .. 15
Planting on raised beds 139
Plants for a Rootery " 119
Plants to grow under the drip of Trees 52
Plants under Trees . . 71
Plants for a Cool Greenhouse . . . „ 95
Plant and Seed Exchanges 2G2
Seed and
Potting Practices
Preparations for Spring Shows .. .. Preserving Fruits .. .. ., Prolitable Gardening : —
Digging and Draining
Edgings and Permanent Planting
Earthwork and Preparation of the Soil
Manures and Composts .. .. ..
Planting of, mid Improving a Kitchen Garden . , . . . . . ,
Potatoe Culture ..
Profitable Plan of Cropping, Saving, and Rotation of Crops
Root Culture, — Carrots, Parsnip, Turnip
Pruning the Gooseberry
Ransome's Siliceous Stone Recovery of Plants from Frost Renovating Flower-beds .. .. ..
Repairing Fruit Walls . . . .
Rhododendron Griffithianum, var. Auck-
landii . . . . . . . . . ,
Rhododendron Veitchiauum . .
Rockery Construction . .
Root Pruning .. .. .. .. ..
Root-stumps and Rockery
Rose, Culture of . . . . ..
Rustic Furniture Salter's new Chrysanthemums Seakale and Asparagus Beds Seeds to be Sown in February Seedling Fuchsias
Seedling Potatoes
Selection of Annuals
Selection of Ferns for a Wardian Case
Selection of Greenhouse Plants
Selection of fruit for Small Gardens
Senecio niikanise . . . .
Sigma's Aphis Powder . . . .
Skeleton Leaves
Slugs and Wire-worms, to Trap
Smith's Rev. Mr., Method of Wheat Grow-
179
105 42 78
158
18 222
174
249 253 9 24 238 150
204
204
109
29
95
106-275
157
75
91
45
178
216
53
12
23
23
128
126-143
95-109-155
96
78
72
75
244-245
7-84
75
30
Stove Management , . 69-46
Smith's new Fuchsias Spring Flowers Spruces, species of Stamford Pippin Apple Standish's new double Camellia Stove Plants (new)
Strawberry Culture
Sulphur as a Preventive of Mildew, &c.
Swamps, Conifers that Grow in
The Cardinal Apple . . . . . .
The Spring Season . .
The Season, 1857
Thunbergias, management of
Town Garden, plan of
Torreya grandis
Trees and Shrubs for Town Gardens
Trenching and deep Digging
Tropical Plants, Management of . .
Trout Salad from Dresden
Tulip Bed
Tank-heating, and early Forcing . . Trumpet Lily, to manage Tulips in Winter
Turf-pit described
Turnip Culture
Variegated Mint, to Propagate
Verbena Cuttings
Veronicas, Culture of
119
5-16
243
77
74
2
. 119-196
36
127
50
. 79-94
92
77
283
231
120
21
17
250
263
263-240
191
Vine Culture' 33-34-92-94
Watering Plants 71-119
Winged Pea Seeds 80-118
Waltonian Case, price of . . • . • • 240 Weather of February » . . . . 48
THE
GARDEH gOIBE.
January, 1858.
HAPPY NEW YEAR to you, and three cheers for the " Eloral World," which now makes its debut, and hopes to be useful in its infancy and continue lusty to a green old age. It does not appear with any flourish of trumpets or roll of drums ; it does not ask for support on the strength of great promises, but desires to be judged for its merits, and accepted or rejected according to its deserts.
A very few words will tell its object, and its title and the contents of the present number the rest. It is projected to bind together a rather large circle of gardening amateurs, who hitherto have had no literary system of centralization. They want information on all sorts of subjects; they want to ask questions, and to get civil answers ; and pretty often they desire to have a whole code of some special department of plant culture, condensed into the compass of a nut-shell. They are growers of flowers, fruits, and vegetables, and many of them exhibitors in each of those three departments ; and, to keep pace with the times, they need to be informed, from month to month, what is going on in the " Floral World," what new plants have been introduced from " far countries," what new sorts have been raised at home, and, perhaps, more important still, what, among the immense numbers of varieties we possess, deserve to be retained, improved, preserved, or flung to Carlyle's limbo.
These good folks, moreover, want to communicate to others of kindred spirit, scraps of original knowledge derived from their own observation and experience — to make suggestions of plans, and projects, and processes, bearing on their favourite pursuit, either as to its actual improvement and simplification, or the rendering cheap and come-at-able things that have hitherto been beyond the reach of folks not blessed with fortunes. Then, in return for such evidence of good fellowship, they would sometimes want a hint, or an instruction, or an opinion, on some point that might
NO. I. VOL. I. B
2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
puzzle tliem ; and straightway the Editor, or some contributor, or reader of the " Floral World," becomes their friend ; and so in a constant inter- change of sympathies, opinions, enquiries, and facts, the " Floral World " must of necessity prove useful and agreeable as a monthly mirror of gardening intelligence.
This is to be emphatically an amateurs' journal, but the professional gardener is not to be shut out ; by no means ; he is to be -welcomed warmly ; for, though, like most other mortals, he may have his failings, to which Ave shall not shut our eyes, he claims our regard, and we acknow- ledge that our hobby is constantly indebted to him ; and we feel assured that he can help us in establishing our fraternity of jolly gardeners.
Now, we know that there are many ably-conducted gardening journals that concentrate in their pages evidences of the highest skill — journals that are ripe as to age, and up to the mark in all the departments they embrace ; and if we were to project a competitor, we should deserve to break down at the first step. But we do not aim at weakening any one of them, whether big or little ; we would not willingly withdraw from them a single subscriber, nor do we expect to — for the simple reason, that we open our pages to a class of readers whose wants are not met by any of the existing gardening periodicals. If a man has extensive ranges of orchard houses, and pineries, and vineries, and forcing pits, and counts his roses by the thousand, he does not need the help of a little monthly adviser in gardening ; but for amateurs with moderate means and ambi- tion to excel in the various practices of horticulture, and in the floral decoration of the garden, greenhouse, conservatory, and the windows of the dwelling, there is and has long been a need for a cheap and practical medium of intelligence and intercommunication ; and here it is — the " Floral W^orld " — its price within the means of all, and, we trust, so planned as to be universally acceptable.
Repeating the terms of our prospectus, it " will be devoted entirely to gardening subjects, and no subsidiary topics will be allowed to interfere with the full consideration of these, as represented in the several depart- ments of plant-houses, flower, fruit, and vegetable culture, garden scenes and embellishments, the management of allotment lands, flower shows, and horticultural botany. These will be severally treated, in a simple and practical manner, by experienced pens, and the fullest attention will be given to communications from correspondents, whether seeking or con- veying information.
We might, of course, say a vast deal about what we mean to do, and predict the success Ave hope for, but " promises are like " — you know what ; so, trusting to our fourpenny sample, Ave say no more about our- selves, but again Avish our friends a Happy NeAv Year, and know they will respond with " Success to the ' Floral World !' "
■
THE Past Season. — Among the many curious results of the unusual warmth of the past summer, we may note the ripening, in the open air, of the fruit of the myrtle, Aralia japoniea, white muscadine, Burgundy, Syrian, and Laeryma grapeg. Blackberry blossoms were gathered at Farnham on the 12th of of December, and many things are floAvering out of season.
A GARDENER'S REVIEW OF THE PAST YEAR.
DIE has brought us to the close of another year, and in the midst of winter gloom and darkness, we call to mind the glories of the season that has passed. The oldest amongst us might tax memory severely, in order to recall a summer of more equal brightness, or marked by more cheering results for horticulture and the sister sciences of any within the experience of the present generation. Providence has abundantly blessed us in the fruitfulness of the earth, and the splendour of the seasons, and, though the spring was a little backward, a more magnificent summer and autumn have not written their bright records in the rural annals of modern times. It has come to its appointed end — "all that's bright must fade," and remembrance of pleasures realized now gives place to hopes for their renewal. If the old year, just hurried into the " silent land," has carried many regrets with it, its infant successor brings with New-year's morning many a joyous anticipation to our hearts ; for —
" As the snowdrop glimmers as winter goes, As coming summer will blush with the rose, As the earth once more from its frosty bond Will be free and glad, and in songs respond,"
so we must keep pace with the revolutions of Time, and inscribe Progress as a motto for our banner.
If commercial disaster and wide-spread industrial distress have cast a cloud over Christmas rejoicings, and chilled the warm heart-throbbings with which most of us welcome a new year, it is at least something to know that the visitation is not to be counted among the dispensations of Providence, who hath given " the earth her increase " as of old, and shed upon the changing seasons even more than their ordinary lustre. The returns of most crops have been above the average, wheat especially ; the estimates of the Mark Lane Express show that in 168 districts of England and Wales the wheat crop is reckoned Over — an Average — and Below an average in 111, ho, and 4 cases respectively; and though barley and potatoes are both short as to produce per acre, the extent of the crop of each has been much greater than usual. The hay season was one of the most favourable we have had for many years, and a generally heavy crop was everywhere well harvested. The meteorological records of the year will present features of unusual interest to those who give their attention to such matters, and I should hope there are few gardeners who do not. Since the 20th of June, when the thermometer registered 80° in the sun, with a S.E. wind, the temperature was above the average up to the middle of December, with the exception of the first week in July, when we had a few cold nights and cloudy days ; but on the 10th the real
4 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
warmth and brightness of summer broke upon us, and may be said to have continued till near the end of November ; bedding plants remaining in bloom later than usual, the fall of the leaf being protracted, and many- tender subjects that are generally expected to perish of frost, if left out after the middle of October, were green and vigorous on the 16th of December, in the neighbourhood of London.
The unusual warmth of the season caused the blooming and fruiting of many plants which usually refuse to accommodate themselves thoroughly to our climate. At a late meeting of the Linna?an Society, Professor Owen produced pods of the three-thorned acacia, which had ripened in his garden at Richmond ; the previous instance on record of the fruiting of this shrub being that mentioned by Miller, which occurred in 1728. The Chronicle records the ripening of the nuts of two sorts of hickory, Cart/a porcince and C. obcordatce ; the ripening of the crimson samara? or keys of Ailanthus glandulosus, a deciduous tree of Chinese origin. At Kew and other places, Koelreuteria paniculata, a beautiful deciduous tree of the soapwort family, also from China, has produced its blabbery sea-vessels in abun- dance ; catalpa trees, at Chiswick, came out loaded with pods ; and in the Horticultural Society's garden, the levantine oak (Quereus cegilops) ripened abundance of acorns. Among the notes made of similar events within my own experience, I may mention the free blooming of pyrus vestita ; the ripening of fruits on standard peaches (Peche des Vignes) in Mr. Rivers's nursery at Sawbridgeworth, the free blooming of the double white Hibis- cus, and the fruiting of Eugenia Ugni, besides grapes, figs, and pome- granates ripened on open walls, of a quality such as we never before saw equalled under similar circumstances. Peaches have been gathered of two-and-a-half pounds weight; Pears of two pounds have been common. Mr. Clarke, the seedsman, of the Borough, lately exhibited a couple, one of which weighed two pounds fourteen ounces; and twelve Belle Angevine, exhibited by Mr. Solomon at Willis's Room's, weighed twenty -five pounds.
Amongst the events of the year, the flower and fruit shows may be spoken of as having been successful beyond precedent. The new locus for such things at Sydenham has told favourably for gardening interests, and though the shareholders' committee estimated the profits of the three shows at only £500, it is to be hoped that better management in future may render such fetes as productive to the company as they are acceptable to the public ; and every enthusiast in horticulture, whether dealer or amateur, would regret the loss of such agreeable reunions, especially since they are celebrated in a spot where decorative gardening has been brought to its highest state of perfection for all popular purposes. At those three shows prizes to the amount of near £2,300 were distributed ; that was the mistake. Let the honour of showing have preponderance over the temptation of prizes, and let the latter be wisely apportioned to merit of the most diverse kinds, and neither professional nor amateur cultivators will cease to regard the Crystal Palace as a place worthy of the best productions of their skill. In regard to shows generally, those of the National, the Horticultural Society, and the many local associations in various parts of the country, must be spoken of as having been un- usually brilliant ; and to crown the close of the season with a grand flourish, came the autumn fruit show at Willis's Rooms — an experiment
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 5
which proved so successful, that we hope for its periodical continuance in the centre of the metropolis. That show did more to exhibit the high position to which horticulture has attained in this country than any similar exhibition for many years past. Even in pears, those from the Continent were quite eclipsed by samples of home growth ; and as to apples, we believe that, whether we regard the variety of sorts, or the general excel- lence of their condition, such a collection was never got together in this or any other country. The classified specimens of Messrs. Kivers and Paul were characterized by the high cultural and exhibitional attainments of those growers ; and among the new sorts were many destined to enrich the orchards of posterity with valuable additions.
Grapes were particularly fine and abundant last season, and those at Willis's Rooms required, as puffiing tradesmen say, " to be seen to be appreciated." The White Tokays from Trentham, the Muscats from Keele Hall, and Black Hamburghs from everywhere, were grapes indeed ; and, as telling the story of the season truly, Mr. Beaton's black grapes, ripened on an open wall at Surbiton, were such as we cannot often expect to see ; though the weather must not carry off his share of the eulogy as an experienced experimenter, and a master of the art he has so nobly laboured to improve.
Those said grapes bring us to consider for a moment what special addi- tions have been made to our knowledge during the past year ; and among the most important, Mr. Beaton's recent elucidations of the theory and practice of vine-pruning must be referred to. The question " how to prune a vine " has had its share of agitation, and, with all the perfections of modern grape culture, we have yet much to learn as to the fundamen- tals of this particular branch of horticulture. I shall, in the February number of the "Floral Would," present a resume of Mr. Beaton's experi- ments and their results ; and, for the present, content myself with saying that, as far as I can judge — and I have pruned a vine or two in my time — Donald Beaton has let more light into the vinery than either Hoare, or Knight, or Smith, or Lindley, or, indeed, all the writers and cultivators put together, have done ever before.
As one thing suggests another, so, again, it occurs to me that we have made great advances towards a knowledge of the causes and remedies of those two great horticultural calamities, the vine mildew, and the potatoe blight. Endless are the suggested methods of prevention and cure, but the virtues of sulphur, in both cases, are coming to be acknowledged as pre-eminent. The Rev. W. J. Berkeley was the first to show how sulphur might be employed to check the potatoe disease, by using cut sets of large potatoes instead of whole sets of small ones, and dusting the moist parts so as to act on the interior of the pulp, instead of any external application. Numerous experiments have proved the efficacy of this practice, but it cannot yet be said with such success as to constitute sulphur a specific.^ Admitting its value, as proved, there is a still more effectual way of dealing with the enemy, by adopting a more rational routine culture — planting in autumn instead of spring, or at least no later than February — choosing sorts which ripen early, and which may be taken up before the late summer and autumn rains come on, which invariably precede the outbreak of the disease, and seem more closely connected with its origin
6 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
than either the forgotten Aphis vastator or the fungoid growths which the sulphur is intended to act upon. But the fact of the myceleum of fungi being present in almost all forms of the potatoe murrain, adds a priori weight to the experimental results attained by the Rev. Mr. Berkeley ; and the more we enquire into the nature of diseases observed in other plants, and especially in the decay, and what is called the wearing out of many of our tree fruits, the more we shall find that the Mycelium of fungi is the agency chargeable with the mischief ; and the practical lesson to be learnt from this fact is, never to plant trees or shrubs on spots where others have perished, without first grubbing up the roots, removing the soil, and supplying its place with earth of a suitable nature, in which neither shrub nor tree has had root before.
The season opened with the grand debate on roses and rose catalogues, and it closes with a debate on another question of great importance to florists — namely, whether we are to break the chrysanthemum in autumn or in spring. With all the glory of the Stoke Newington, Colchester, and other shows of this noble flower, it seems we are to be beaten by a grower who saves four months of anxious labour, by starting in March instead of November. Mr. Scutt has broached this question in the Chronicle, and its issue will be attentively watched by all who take an interest in the finest exhibition subject in the whole queendom of Flora. Mr. Scutt's Drin Drin carried 179G blooms, though put in as a cutting in the beginning of March — a result not easily obtained on the orthodox London method, even with old stools. This is a point Avorthy of attention.
A hundred other matters suggest themselves for remark, but space forbids. Let us rejoice that the Horticultural Society, many as have been its sins and failings, is once more acquiring strength and popularity. In the hands of Mr. McEwen, the garden has already changed its face, and the earnest labours of the council have met with a warm response from the lovers of horticulture everywhere. May it go on and prosper ; and may all jealousies, bickerings, personal quibbles, and animosities, speedily be extinguished out of the whole " Floral World," which draws its life from the most beautiful and useful objects in creation, is the sincere wish of
An Old Gardener.
NOTES OF THE MONTH.
When the Council of the Horticultural Society issued the late circular, in- viting the co-operation of the lovers of horticulture in the endeavour to re- establish the Society on a healthy basis, so sudden and great an influx of fellows could not have been anticipated by the most sanguine of its members. In that address, the Council stated that above 20,000/. bad been distributed by it in prizes alone, at its several exhibitions ; 40,0O0Z. had been laid out on the gar- den at Chiswick, which was commenced in 1822 ; and, in its recent difficulties, no less than 3,000Z. have been subscribed by fellows and their friends to keep the Society on its feet. Since September, 1856, 197 new fellows have been elected, and instead of the former entrance fee of 6/. 6s., and annual subscription of 41. 4s., the entrance fee has been abolished, and an additional class of sub- scribers created, at 21. 2s. per annum, to whom fewer privileges are awarded.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 7
The address was not issued in vain, for at the meeting on the 1st of December last, no fewer than 108 new fellows were elected, including five ladies, sixteen persons of title, a general, four captains, four reverends, sixty-six private gen- tlemen, three nurserymen, namely, Mr. Waterer, of Bagshot ; Mr. Toogood, of Arundel, Sussex ; and Mr. J. Watts, of Old Kent-road ; and three gardeners, namely, Mr. Broome, of the Temple Gardens ; Mr. Francis, of Adelaide, New South Wales; and Mr. Barnes, of Bicton. On the 15th, another batch was passed, and the Society will begin the new year with an extensive fellowship to support it.
At the meeting of the Linnaean Society, held November 19, Lady Smith presented theAvhole of the scientific correspondence of the late Sir J. E. Smith, arranged in eighteen volumes. Mr. John Hogg read a paper on " Four Varieties of British Plants;" they consisted of a white -flowered variety of the common corn poppy (Papaver rhtes), a luxuriant form of Astragalus Hypo- glottis, a curious monstrosity of the major plantain, in which the lower flowers were converted into spikelets, forming a pyramidal infloresence, and some variations of the common arbutus. Such things are, however, by no means uncommon. We have seen wayside thistles covered with semi-foliated bulbs all along the stems ; cabbages very commonly produce buds, and even small complete hearts, on the midribs of the large leaves ; double cucumbers are common, and last season we had on a common pumpkin, of unusual luxuriance, as many as eight complete fruits, all consolidated together into an enormous clump, and uuited at their bases. Last summer a plant of the bride Fuchsia presented us with numbers of flowers, with six and seven sepals each, and a Kingsbury Pet geranium came quite double on one truss. Nature is more given to such freaks than most of us are aware of, because we do not observe sufficiently, but the observation of them is the key to many a valuable addition to our list of ornamental and useful plants.
The Pomological Society increases in usefulness and activity. At a meeting held at St. Martin's Hall, on the 3rd of December, a list of sixteen prizes was determined on, including three for seedling grapes, and one for the "best seed- ling grape, to ripen in the open air, and which shall be superior to those already in cultivation." Mr. Bohn gave 21. for the best seedling late strawberry, not in general commerce ; Mr. Kivers 21. for the best seedling early peach ; Robert Hanbury, Esq., 21. for the best seedling early apricot, and a like sum for the best late apricot ; and the editors of the Cottage Gardener 21. for the best seedling late peach. The sixteen prizes amount altogether to 28Z. Those to be awarded for dessert pears— namely, one of 21., by A. Scrutton, Esq., for the best six varieties, and one of 1/., by R. Hanbury, Esq., for the best early pear — will be determined at a meeting to be held on the 4th of February next. Two addi- tional prizes have since been offered, viz., 11. for the best six of the Salway Peach : and 10s. for the best ten of Cox's Orange Pippin, both by Mr. C. Turner, of Slough. ' Among the fruits exhibited were some seedling pears from Mr. Stephens, Chingford, Essex; one of them resembling the Baronne de Mello, was highly eommended as being much superior to that variety. Mr. Matthews, of Clap- ham, exhibited a seedling pear, called Matthews' Eliza, one of the Easter Beurre class, a large, handsome, desirable fruit, of a lively, piquant flavour. Having ripened well on a standard, it is an undoubted acquisition. Mr. Laxton, the enthusiastic cultivator of Stamford, sent his fine apple, known as the Stamford Pippin, a golden, glossy, richly flavoured, and juicy fruit, which has now proved itself, having been exhibited before, as a valuable addition to this class of apples. Mr. Rivers sent several little known varieties of pears, among them Princess Charlotte, one of the Passe Colmar race ; Beurre grit rThiver nouveau, a large melting pear, of high flavour and rich aroma; and Vicar of Winhfiekl, a sort which figured largely at Willis's Rooms, and was now in fine condition as to sweetness and aroma, a result only to be obtained with this sort in such a summer as the past.
8 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
The grand seasonal show of the Smithfield Club, which took place at Baker's Rooms, was, as usual, brilliantly successful. In the implement and root department upwards of 300 exhibitors found room, by mutual squeezing, for various examples of improved agricultural machinery and implements. Among the roots was a collection by Messrs. Lawson, consisting of extraordinary Bel- gian carrots, Kohl Rabi, swede turnips, and similar productions, selected to illustrate the capabilities of pure sorts, without special nursing for exhibition purposes. Messrs. Sutton, of Reading, showed mangel wurzels of 40lbs. weight; some roots of the same, from Mr. Grove, of Great Baddo, Essex, measured three feet in length ; Gibbs and Co. had superb chickory roots, orange jelly, t'lrnips, and monster Kohl Rabi ; Page, of Southampton, mangel wurzels of 44lbs. ; nor must we forget the giant wheat of Major Quentin, of Waterford, who has sold the whole of his crop of seven quarters to the acre, at three guineas a bushel for seed. Ransome and Sims came out strong in horse-hoes and root- pulpers ; Burgess and Key exhibited several high class gardening as well as agricultural implements, and there were ploughs, threshing machines, and clod crushers, in greater number than we need specify. Burgess and Key's digging forks and draining tools, and Sigma's pretty hoes and dibbles, arrested the attention of many a knight of the blue apron.
We hear, from many quarters, of spirited preparations for the spring shows. Hyacinths, forced shrubs and roses, cinerarias, and other early subjects, are expected to be better shown than they have been for many years past. In hyacinths and bulbs in pots, generally, there is certainly room for improve- ment, and this class of flowers is much neglected by amateurs.
The Horticultural Society will have a grand Spring Exhibition on the 6th of April. There are thirty-five classes : twenty-three for flowers, and twelve for fruits. Among the first are four classes for hyacinths, two for tulips, three for narcissi, three for roses, and one of three prizes, namely, 4/., 3/ , and 21., for six plants of fine and remarkable foliage, in which variegated plants will be ad- missible. There are three prizes, of 2/., II., and 10s., for six distinct annuals in pots ; three of the same amount, for cinerarias in sixes, correctly named, and three of the same amounts for auriculas in twelves.
The folks 'yond the Tweed are looking forward to the 23rd of March, when an exhibition of hyacinths and other spring flowers and shrubs will take place at the Music Hall, George-street, Edinburgh. Early vegetables, horticultural implements, &c, will form a feature of the exhibition, as on former occasions. Intending competitors may obtain schedules on application to Mr. Stark, of Castle-street, or Mr. Lamont, of Fettes-road, Edinburgh.
PLATYLOMA GERANIFOLIA.
The coloured illustration has been kindly furnished by the proprietors of Lowe's British and Exotic Ferns* the most beautifully produced of any of the works recently published on the subject. It is not only the fullest and most accurate treatise on ferns extant, but it is also the cheapest, each shilling part containing four highly-rinished fern portraits, besides letterpress descrip- tions. Of the fern here figured, we quote a portion of Mr. Lowe's description:— " An interesting dwarf species, which has been looked upon as a Pteris by most botanists, but placed in the present family by Mr. J. Smith. It appears to be rather a delicate species to cultivate, yet is not difficult to raise from spores. Young plants in the seed-pans will bear fertile fronds. An evergreen stove fern, native of Brazil, India, and the island of Java. Introduced into this country in 1816, according to Kunze ; and into the Royal Gardens, Kew, in 1838.
* A Natural History of Ferns, British and Exotic. By E. J. Lowe, Esq., F.K.A.S., F.G.S., &c, with coloured illustrations. Vols. 1, 3, and 3. Price 14s. each. Koyal Svo. Groombiidge and Sons.
.
PLANTING OF A FERN CASE.
BY SHIRLEY HIBBERD.
Having been kindly invited to become a contributor to the " Floral World," I open my budget with an account of a Fern Vase, as a subject peculiarly in- teresting at a season of the year when in-door horticulture haspeculiar attrac- tions. There is, perhaps, no department of domestic plant-culture more in need of elucidation, than that of fern growing, and the use of Wardian cases, for the Filices are daily growing more popular; every lover of plants gives some attention to them ; they figure largely at flower shosvs, both as ob- jects of competition, and as means of decorating the tables, and the day may not be far distant, when societies, de- signed expressly to encourage the culture of Ferns, will be as successful, and their shows as attractive, as are those devoted to other special classes of subjects — as the dahlia, or chrysan- themum for instance. The engraving which accompanies this article, re- presents a Fern Vase, which was fitted expressly for experimental purposes, and among the large number of similar contrivances which have furnished me with Fern experiences, not one has proved so successful as this, either for beauty of effect, the flourishing condi- tion of the plants, or its comparative cheapness, all things considered.
The vase is an example of a mate- rial, known as " Ransome's Patent Siliceous Stone," the invention of which has set at rest for ever, the long vexed question of a substitute for stone. Strictly speaking, this is not a substi- tute at all, but a real stone artificially made ; and as an example of the appli- cation of science to the amenities of life, it takes one of the highest places among the inventions of this present century. It may not be known to every reader of these pages, that many famous kinds of building stone, are, by their consti- tution, utterly unfit for architectural purposes, where durability is required. The bath-stone, of which many of our finest buildings are constructed, proves itself unequal to the attacks of
time. The alternating temperatures of our climate, and, especially, the rapid changes from damp to frost, and then to drying winds during winter, steadily operate to its disintegration ; the deli- cate sculptured tracings lose their sharpness, the whole surface gets ab- raded, and in time, "the beauty of the fashion of it perisheth," and Nature asserts her ancient supremacy over Art. If the truth of this is made manifest in the case of such buildings as West- minster Abbey, or even in the fine Portland stone used in the construction of St. Paul's, in each of which, deci- sive evidences of decay have long been visible, how much more may we expect ambitious works to yield to those at- mospheric influences, which not even granite is utterly proof against. Now, if we were to bring an artificially com- pounded stone into competition with real Portland, or Bath, or Cragleith, or Darley Wold stone, we should submit it to the severest possible test ; and, strange to saj-, ,the invention of Ran- some bears such a test with impunity, and, for many reasons, maybe described as superior to any natural stone ever used for decorative purposes.
Let it be understood that the chief cause of the decay of masonry is the presence in the material of certain in- gredients on which the atmosphere has a decided influence. Take a stone com- posed chiefly of silica and lime, expose it to the weather, and the acid, soot, and the natural moisture of the atmosphere, will soon crumble it to powder, because, of all earthy substances, those of a cal- careous origin have the most powerful affinities for the principles presented to them by the atmosphere. 1 remember, some fifteen years ago, seeing, for the first time, the picturesque cliffs of magnesian limestone, which confront the sea, along the coast of Northumber- land, and which, at Sunderland, yield large plates of flexible stone, which bend as freely as whalebone, and which are even difficult to break, on account of their toughness while kept damp.
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THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
That very stone is hard as adamant, where it lies concealed from the atmos- phere, in the seclusion of superincum- bent strata, but in the exterior facing of the cliff it crumbles like touchwood, so effectually does the atmosphere operate on its mired ingredients. In the same way the Dover cliffs, and, in- deed, the rocks generally, on our east coast, of which the basis is, in most cases calcareous, are the most perishable of any with which we are acquainted. On the other hand, the most durable natu- ral stones, are those which are composed wholly, or nearly so, of silica, the particles being held together by a natural siliceous cement, and altoge- ther free from marl or limestone. To succeed, therefore, in any imitation of these, or, as in the case of liansome's imperishable compound, to surpass them, a perfectly homogenous material must be produced, and one, too, that can be handled first in a loose form, so as to be moulded to any required de- sign, otherwise the sculptor's chisel would have to be called into requisition, and the principal advantage would be lost — for it is not the mere material so much as its capability of being made ornamental at a low rate of cost, that renders a perfect substitute for stone so desirable.
Now, though Mr. Ransome has spent twelve years of his life in maturing the idea which first called him into this pecu- liar field of experiment, the result may, in its essence, be very briefly told. His first hint of the necessity of some such material as that which he has succeeded in producing, was obtained from noticing a workman renewing the surface of a mill-stone, and he was struck by the apparent absurdity of having to chip away, not only the soft parts of the stone, but also the hard siliceous pro- minences which constituted the real efficient portion of the surface. Here was seen the main difficulty, and also the mode of encountering it. The perishability of stone is chiefly due to its heterogenous character, the atmos- phere acting variably on its several ingredients, and thus even its most last- ing elements are destroyed by their association with materials of a perishable nature. It occurred to Mr. Ransome,
that if he could re-unite the particles of silex, on which the atmosphere has no effect, and obtain a cement to hold them together, also of silex, one uniform structure would prevail throughout, and the material would present none of those weak points to the atmosphere which most natural stones do, through the presence in them of ingredients that may be chemically acted on by mois- ture, and such other active agents as are always present in the atmosphere.
It might interest our readers to des- cribe the several steps pursued to the attainment of this end, but our limited space forbids, and it must suffice to say, that a method was at last discovered of uniting silica by means of silica, the basis of the materials being siliceous sand and powdered flint, and the cement an alkaline solution of flint. After the usual processes of working in the form of a paste, and then moulding to the artist's design, the alkaline solution of silica, which holds the loose particles together, till the last touch of the artist has been given to the plastic mass, is, by ex- posure to a high temperature, rendered semi-vitreous, and insoluble ; and the whole mass is held together by a glassy silicate on which neither air nor mois- ture can produce the least effect.
Now, what most concerns the gar- dener as to this invention, is its dm-abi- lity and the persistency with which it retains its character under exposure to the weather — a quality which distin- guishes it as much from every other substitute for stoue, as its crystalline beauty, its bright tone and colour, and, as worked out by the Company, the splendid forms of high art in which it is produced. If science has brought her highest appliances to bear on its actual production, Art, her twin sister, has nobly co-operated, and, for pur- poses of garden embellishment, we never before had such a choice of classic patterns, or so many new appliances of stone, as Mr. Ransome has placed within our reach, at prices no higher than we used to pay for inferior ce- ments.
The "Jardinet," which I had the pleasure of describing lately in the Collage Gurdcner, is an example of an original contrivance as well as of
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
11
a new and splendid material, and a specimen of floral sculpture. The gar- den va*es, fountains, and other decora- tive works which Mr. Ransome has produced, are all characterised by ex- quisite design, and as they keep their colour and sharpness of outline under all circumstances, the patent siliceous stone must be accepted as a noble contribution to ornamental gardening. realising, in all its details, the splen- dours of the Italian style, but without necessitating, as that style has done hitherto, a princely expenditure. Of the appliances of the invention to the decorative parts of buildings, we have less occasion to speak, though houses and gardens can hardly be separated when we treat of artistic embellishments, and as to terrace ornamentation, here is the one thing needful— cheap and everlasting sculpture, which will hold its beauty when the family name is forgotten, and the less perishable parts of the mansion and grounds — real stone products included — are hastening to decay.
I have chosen the Fern Yase as an illustration of this paper, for the double purpose of adding my tribute to the many which have been given by Pro- fessors Farady. De la Beche, Ansted. Henry Hunt, and Wheatstone, the Times newspaper, the Institute of Civil Engineers, and numerous other high authorities, as to its general excellence, beauty, imperishability, and cheap- ness ; and now let us consider the example before us as a plant case.
This vase measures across the top from edge to edge 22 h inches, the tazza is 6t inches deep, and fits on a pivot to the pedestal on which it turns freely, but as the action of turning is not an easy one when the vase has the weight of a glass frame and plants upon it, I have fitted two perforated disks of thin marble, one to the pe- destal, and one to the vase, by means of cement, and as the polished surfaces of the disks meet, the act of turning it is easily accomplished. From the ground to the rim of the vase, is 2 feet 8 inches ; but an additional slab which I have placed beneath it, raises the entire height, without the glass frame, to 3 feet.
In fitting this beautiful vase for a Wardian case. I have strictly adhered to those principles of management on which I have laid so much sti'ess in "liustic Adornments," namely, effi- cient drainage, and free ventilation, the treating them, in fact, as green- houses on a small scale, in opposition to Mr. Ward's plan of excluding the outer air, on the self-sustaining theor}', about which so much nonsense has been said and written. To suppose ferns to be capable, any more than other plants, of enduring confinement in the midst of their own exhalations, is to suppose an impossibility — as the re- peated failures and mistakes made in the management of fern cases, prove abundantly. Having in view easy access to the pknts. and the supply of air to both roots and foliage, the fittings are made as follows : First, for the soil a zinc pan is constructed ; it is
octagonal in shape, with a circular bot- tom, perforated throughout, and this fits so loosely in the vase, that there is a free space for circulation of air all round it, between the stone and the zinc, the pan resting on its turned edges, and not quite filling the space it occupies ; it measures 1 ft. o£ inches across, and 6 inches deep. The octagonal frame-work is also of zinc, and fits closely on the edge of the soil pan. one side being hung on hinges, with a catch, as a door ; it is glazed with three-sixteenths, crown glass, and be- tween it and the lantern, and again around the top of the latter, the squares of glass are separated by a continuous band of perforated zinc, so that the external air has free admission, and the vapour within an easy escape. From the base of the case, to the first ventilator, is a height of 2 feet, and from that point again, to the top of the lantern, 10 inches, giving a total of 34
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THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
inches. Compared with some common fern shades which I have in useheside the vase, the advantage of ventilation in the latter is evidenced in the glass being at all times undimmed, even after watering, and if it should be neglected for awhile, there is none of the havoc visible, which damp is sure to effect under a neglected bell-glass, or any other air-tight contrivance; and though the plants require watering more frequently, about once a month, is enough in winter, and once a week, in the height of summer. The top of the lantern inside is furnished with four hooks, for suspending ferns in small pots, bark, or cocoa-nut shells.
I planted this case last May, with a few select exotic ferns, and their rapid growth, and present (December) healthy appearance, surpass any ex- ample I have ever had, on the close method of treating YVardian cases; indeed, if it had not been treated throughout, as a miniature greenhouse, one half of them must by this time have perished, because, at least, four delicate specimens were introduced, which will neither bear excess of mois- ture, nor dryness, and to which a full supply of fresh air is indispensable, not only for health, but for life. In planting, a layer of small cinders was first laid over the perforated bottom of the soil pan, and upon these, two inches of small crocks and rough charcoal, of the size of hazel-nuts. Upon this was placed a thin layer of rough turfy peat, to prevent the finer compost from getting down among the drainage ; and then the compost for the ferns was worked in together with a few pieces of rock, so as to leave the surface after planting, in the form of a hillock, rising in the centre some three inches higher than the sides. The compost was made of turfy peat, well broken up, about four parts ; silver-sand, three parts ; broken charcoal, of the size of peas and hazel-nuts, one part ; leaf mould one part ; and a little very old powdery dung and rotten wood — but, turfy peat, charcoal, and silver-sand, would always do without particular need for the other ingredients. As a matter of course, the compost was not sifted, but well worked with the hand ; and
when ready, was of a free gritty character, and would scarcely soil the hand when moderately moist. Com- post which becomes pasty when wetted, is quite unfit for growing ferns.
The following Ferns and Lycopods were planted : — In the centre Gonio- phlebium lorieeum, a fast growing, and almost hardy fern, closely allied to the Polypodies ; it has curious snake-like creeping root-stems, and its fronds rise from a central crown, and arch over on all sides very gracefully. As to the height, it is most accommodating, for though it rises eighteen or twenty inches high, it may be reduced by a clip of the scissors, without at all in- terfering with its beaut}'. It spreads fast, by means of its root- stems, and my case is now full of young plants, which will require to he removed in spring. Around this are Lastrea glabella, very neat and free growing ; Campy loneurum angustifolium, fCyrto- pklebium angustifolium, of Sims' cata- logue,) a very distinct and curious fern, with rich dark green undivided fronds of a hard texture ; JDavallia dissecta, a relative of the hare's foot fern, but of more delicate growth ; Aneimidictyon phi Uitidis, which has fer- tile stems springing from the junction of the lowest pair of the divisions of its leaf-like fronds; Pteris crenata, the fertile fronds rising a foot high, in very regular, tail-like divisions; and lastly, the scarce and beautiful Cheilan- thes farinosa, a better silver fern for Wardian cases than any of the Gymno- grammas, and, in its curious beaut}', un- surpassed ; but none of its tribe will bear either excessive dryness or exces- sive moisture, hence, on the close-case plan, they perish in a week or two. The soil is surfaced with Selaginella upoda, and S. variabilis, which have spread freely, and the fragrant Thymus Corsica, which certainly has not thriven, though one or two sprays are left, and may spread next spring.
In the lantern above, are four very choice subjects: Camptotorus rhyzo- phyllus spreads its unique and hardy fronds over a minute case of bark ; Asplenium flabellifolium riots in a bunch of moss, and multiplies rapidly by forming young plants, at the
u*
P.WJUSTXNE
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THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
extremities of its dangling fronds ; Adianlum setulosum, is in a perforated cocoa-nut shell, and is pushing new crowns through the holes all over it ; and the rather tender Nothochlama teneru thrives in a similar way, but abhors much moisture.
As to general management, the case has the temperature of an ordinary room, and so long as it is not actually touched with frost, there is nothing in it that will take harm during winter. The soil is kept moderately moist in summer, and dryish at other times : the plants enjoy an occasional syring- ing, and about once a month, the case is removed, the plants trimmed up, and thinned, and scale, if it ap- pears, removed by means of the finger- nail : the use of turps has never been required.
I might, in the space I have occupied, have treated the subject more ex- tensively in a general way, but to describe what has been done, is better always than what may be done.
To complete the details, I may as well mention, that Messrs. Treggon, of Jewin-street, fitted the case to the vase and met my views admirably; Mr. Sim supplied me the plants, and the cost of the whole was as follows : — Vase, £4 4s. ; glass case and two soil pans, £4 10s. ; plants, £2 3s. 6d. ; base added since, to prevent the damp from descending the pedestal to the carpet, JOs. ; total, £12 7s. 6d; which, I con- sider a low figure for so beautiful and interesting an object, especially since the plants increase rapidly, and the construction itself is of the most en- during nature.
»oz-zoooc-:<
THE CINERARIA.
As a florist's flower, the Cineraria
enjoys and deserves a high place ; its
dazzling, fulgid hues, and its free
bold blooming at a season when the
sun
" Scarce shines through ether the dejected
day," renders it alike welcome as a green- house and window flower, and as a notable contribution to the spring shows. To grow it to perfection is a task within compass of the poorest florist's means, for it literally detests heat, and the more hardy it can be made by a judicious course of culture, the more bravely does it throw up its glittering trusses of cheerful bloom.
To grow good specimen plants for exhibition, the compost should consist of two parts loam from rotted turves, one part thoroughly decayed cow dung, one part fibrous peat, one part leaf mould, and sufficient sharp sand and small potsherds to make the whole light and porous. To keep established sorts, the plants must be grown from offsets, and if the plants are cut down after blooming, and repotted into larger pots, or turned out at once into the open border, an abundance may be obtained ;
but man}' growers prefer cuttings taken off when the young shoots from near the collar arc two inches long ; these are rooted in a compost of powdery peat and silver sand, and then potted off into three-inch pots, in light and moderately rich compost, and from that time forward, they are to be shifted on, as fast as they fill their pots with roots, to encourage them to make broad and ample foliage and stout stems. They ought to be in eight-inch pots before they begin to show their flower-stems. To winter the young stock, a cold frame is preferable to a greenhouse, but they must be well secured against frost, with a substantial matting, and well ventilated during mild weather. About January is the time for the last shift, and after this they may be brought into the green- house to bloom. la preparing them for exhibition, it is next to impossible to avoid the sticks and ties to open out the heads ; this should be done so as to spread them well over the pot, to pre- vent crowding in the centre. The sticks and ties should all be removed a day or two before the show, and the plants ought to have sufficient robust- ness to bear their trusses firmly.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
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The Cineraria is an excellent subject for those fond of raising seedling col- lections. Seed should be taken only from those plants which possess the requisites of fine form and colour ; as soon as gathered, it should be sown in shallow pans, and comes all the better for a little bottom heat ; the plants must be pricked out into similar pans, as soon as they have three leaves each, and must be kept rather close for a few days to recover the moving. As soon as they begin to crowd each other in the pans, pot them singly in the com- post just described, and thereafter treat them the same as described for offsets.
TWELVE FIXE CINERARIAS FOP. EXHIBITION.
Asmodeus, (Turner) bluish purple, dwarf, fine habit.
Brilliant, (Lidgard) white, with azure edges, dark disk.
Baronness Rothschild, white violet edge, very full.
Charles Dickens, purplish puce, very dwarf.
Emperor of the French, (Turner) white, with rosy crimson margin, dark disk, fine form, an improved Optimum.
Earl of Clarendon, (Turner) deep viole.t, with red ring round a dark disk, good substance, and dwarf.
Excelsior, (Turner) an improved Scot- tish Chieftain.
Kate Kearney, (Henderson) large white, dwarf, strong grower.
Lablache, (Henderson) fine deep blue, dwarf.
Loveliness, bright rosy flake, fine habit.
Sir Charles Napier, (Turner) intense blue, dwarf, fine petals.
Rosy Morn, (Henderson) rosy crimson, light centre and disk.
HARDY EVERGREEN FLOWERING SHRUBS.
It is a common cause for regret, with those who entertain ambitious views of ornamental gardening, that in the for- mation of shrubberies, and in the gene- ral planting of evergreens, in borders and forecourts, the resources of garden- ing are, generally speaking, so little understood. Everywhere the old lau- rels and aucubas, and tree-box, and variegated holies are used abundantly, and though they are really noble ob- jects when judiciously grouped and skilfully treated, the extensive choice of high-class ornamental shrubs now available for similar purposes of em- bellishment, seem to be scarcely known beyond the nurseries where they are raised, and we see little out of the ordinary round of old-fashioned ever- greens, except in the grounds where gardening is pursued with all the ardour and intelligence due to it, as one of the "Fine Arts." So many new and beautiful shrubs have been introduced of late years, that it is time this depart- ment of amateur gardening underwent a complete reform. We would not abolish our good old friends, but rather render them more effective and ac-
ceptable, by blending with them sub- jects of higher pretensions as to gaiety — for if we get all the requisites of hardiness, free growth, and dense evergreen foliage, with a seasonal show of cheerful bloom into the bargain, we shall have made a grand step towards the improvement of the shrubbery itself, and all other garden scenes in which evergreens play an important part. With this end in view, wc propose treating the subject of " flowering shrubs " specifically ; and, as a matter of course, we give the term its popular meaning, for as all shrubs flower in some way or other, we shall confine our attention to those which produce blossoms conspicuous for beau- ty, and which are capable of impressing on the scenes in which they may be placed, distinct features of attractive- ness. This month we may make a good beginning with
KALMIA LATIFOLIA.
This is, perhaps, the most beautiful hardy flowering shrub we possess, though there is no such thing as an ugly Kalmia. This genus belongs to
16
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
the noble family of llhodorea, in which are grouped, the rhododendron, the azalea, Kalmia, menziesia, and some other genera, of similar botanical structure — showy and noble things. There are not many species of Kalmia in cultivation; K. angustifolia nana, and its variety rubra; K. Glauca, and K. latifolia, include all that are generally to be found in nurseries ; the last named, is certainly the finest of its family. The soil in Avhich the Kalmia delights, is one compounded of peat and sandy loam, and a similar course of treatment to that adopted Avith the rhododendron and azalea, is most suited to its habits. It is, however, a mistake to suppose that peat is essentially necessary with these American plants. Sound yellow loam, enriched Avith decayed dung and rotted turf, or leaf- mould, Avill grow any of them to perfection, but the Kalmia is more partial to sand than most others. Messrs. Lane, of Great Berkhampstead, groAV this class of plants on the yelloAv loam of Berkhampstead Common, with the least possible preparation as to soil. The grass is simply dug in and the trees planted, and in the fresh vegetable fibre they root freely, and move remarkably well, and have a beautifully healthy appearance.
The Kalmia may be propagated Avith moderate certainty from cuttings of young shoots, inserted in sandy peat,
under handlights; or, by layers at the end of summer. When raised from seed, it should be soAvn in sandy peat, and kept close in a frame till the seedlings are up, and they should then be gradually hardened by exposure to the air, and pricked oft' Avhen large enough to handle. The Kalmia is a good subject for pot culture, and forces Avell, and hence is an acceptable addition to the shrubs groAvn for the conservatory. In the open borders it is perfectly hardy, and blooms in June, producing a magnificent effect Avhen Avell grouped in masses, and associated with subjects Avhich, at that gay season, lend it the relief of contrasted colour. Amongthe varieties of latifolia, Cattell's major splendens is one of the most charming, the flowers almost flat, and as large as a penny-piece. At the June sIioav at the Crystal Palace last year, Mr. Veitch exhibited a splendid hybrid, called picta. This has about a dozen crimson spots in a circle inside the floAver, all marked as regularly as if artificially painted. We shall not soon forget our admiration of it, or of Rho- dodendron javanicum, as shown by Mr. Lane, or Mr. Veitch's Princess Royal rhododendron, which is a cross from the splendid and rare javanicum. As Time turns his great Avheel, let us hope to find fresh pleasures of the sort in the summer that Avill soon burst upon us. E. J. L.
BOITE A HOUPPE
OR, SULPHUR DUSTER.
This is an ingenious contrivance, intro- duced by Messrs. Burgess and Key, the well-known horticultural implement makers, of Newgate-street, London.
It is a cylindrical tin box (boite), terminating in a perforated orifice, in which is inserted a tuft (houppe) of avooI. When charged with sulphur, it is invaluable for dusting vines, melons, and other plants attacked Avith mildew or red spider, distributing the
sulphur in an impalpable powder, and most effectually "settling" such pests. The pepper-box instrument, hitherto in use, caused much Avaste, and distri- buted so freely as to be injurious, but this simple instrument performs its work to perfection. As it costs but half-a-croAvn, no possessor of a green- house should be without it. We have tried it, and found the sulphur to escape from it in the form of a light cloud, Avhich reached every crevice of bark and foliage, and, if mounted on a rod, the dusting of vines on rafters, and plants on Avails, is easily accom- plished. It may be used for distri- buting lime in the same way.
17
CHEAP PRESERVATIVE PIT FOR AMATEURS.
I — t — L i
There are few amateurs who can afford to erect as many plant-houses as they really require, and efficient substitutes are always in request. In- deed, at first-class establishments, such as Shrubland, Frogmore, and Trent- ham, many make -shifts are adopted to assist in relieving the seasonal pressure upon the regular permanent struc- tures. Over-crowding in winter is the frequent source of failure and disappointment, and the anxiety to preserve bedding and other stock, where the available space is already as closely occupied as it should be, leads to repeated vexations, and anything in the way of a plant-house, which an amateur may construct himself, and which will involve but a trifling out- lay, must prove acceptable. At this time of year, it is customary to see lofts, gar- rets, and sitting- room windows all crowded with pots containing
plants, for which there is no room to be found in the greenhouse or the pit, and many assiduous gardeners, who do not enjoy the luxury of a glass struc- ture of any kind, would gladly adopt some simple and cheap plan of pre- serving plants, to get rid of the dirt, and confusion, and trouble, and we may add, the numerous losses that occur towards February, where there is no regular and uniform system pursued.
It is to assist such that we now describe a method of constructing a cold pit, which combines practical utility with the utmost simplicity, and is, perhaps, the cheapest form of a plant-house ever adopted. The mate- rials necessary are some good larch piles, some rough planking, sashes of oiled calico or glass, and a good stock of turf, all easily procurable, and the last generally to be had on the spot. Mark out the place for the pit, choos- ing a dry slope facing the south, if possible, for damp is a greater enemy than frost to all unheated structures. For a substantial working pit of good
capacity the following inside measure- ments are recommended — twelve feet long, five feet wide, three feet deep at the back, two feet in the front. Having marked out the ground, dig it out to a depth of twelve inches, so that the in- side of the pit will be that depth below the level of the ground outside ; then drive in short piles at the four cor- ners, and attach a rough plank along the edge of the excavation all round, against which to lay the first layer of turves. Then, dividing the twelve feet space into three equal parts, drive in four other stout piles for the sash pieces to rest on, and then begin to pile the turves ; these are to form four solid walls, to be laid down level with the ground outside, neatly built up, beginning by laying them close to the rough planking round the pit till level with the top of the piles; if the walls are six inches thick, they have sufficient solidity, but they maybe eight or nine inches with advantage. When these are completed, trim them off neatly where they require it, observing that the summits should slope a little downward, to throw off rain, and pre- vent any trickling into the pit, and also let the outside be as regular as possible, that wet may not lodge any- where. A labourer accustomed to the handling of turf, would complete this part of the job in a few hours, and finish it off as neatly as a brick-built wall. Then, for the sashes to rest on, nail a strip of board of sufficient width to lap over the turf to carry off rain, and fit three of the ordinary three-and a-half feet sashes, well painted and glazed, and your pit is complete.
If the expense of glass sashes is an object, a substitute may be found in oiled calico, and any one handy in the use of a saw, may make three frames to fit with but a little trouble. Use clean pine, the sides two inches, the ends three inches, and each one and a quarter inch thick, and a little longer than the pit to carry off rain. Up the middle
18
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
of each sash, run a strip of deal an inch wide, and then cover them loosely on the under side with fine calico, or tiffany, merel}' tacking the calico along the edge to keep it temporarily in its place. Then, to convert the calico into glass, make the following preparation : pale linseed oil a pint and a half ; sugar of lead, half an ounce ; white resin, two ounces ; grind the sugar of lead with a little of the oil into a smooth paste, then add the remainder of the oil and the resin, and melt the whole in an iron pot over the fire, stirring it the while to incor- porate the ingredients thoroughly. Apply while hot to the calico with a large brush, and leave it till the following day, and then tack the calico tightly, still, on the under side of the frames, and they are ready for use. A second coat of the preparation may be given the day after the first, but it is not essential.
To finish the pit off inside, a little extra dressing may be given. Set slates upon end between the piles, or nail some laths across, from pile to pile, on the inside, and fill up between the slates or laths, and the turves, with fine coal-ashes worked in hard with a stick, this will give a neat finish to the walls inside, and, besides improving their appearance, will render them still more impervious to frost, and help to keep out slugs and worms. To com- plete the pit for the reception of plants,
make a bed of clean-sifted coal ashes inside to plunge the pots in. In place of entirely filling the pit with ashes, one or two divisions might be appro- priated to a bed of peat, and in autumn an immense number of cuttings of geraniums, verbenas, calceolarias, &c, might be put in and left to winter there without need of pots at all, and in a severe winter the young plants so rooted in a bed of poor soil would be much safer against frost than if in pots, even though plunged to the rim, besides the saving of pots, and the increased number of cuttings, the pit would afford room for on such a plan. During severe weather thatched hurdles would be the best covering, and over calico frames, with the calico strained on the under side, there would be no risk of tearing in putting the hurdles on or off.
Pits of this kind are not only valu- able in winter for preservative purposes, but in spring, when cleared out, they would be useful for raising annuals and early vegetable crops for planting out. Two feet well-worked dung, with six inches of mould on the top, would make hot-beds of them at once, and, during the whole year round; they could be kept in active use, and, if well made at first, would last a life time. They would also serve for hardening offyoung stock, preparatory to planting out, and for striking cuttings of all kinds.
G. T.
PROFITABLE GARDENING.
CHAPTER I. — PLANNING AND LAYING OUT.
To begin at the beginning, how is the kitchen garden to be planned ? It is quite an easy matter to plan gardens on paper, but such ideal plans are of little use to readers, beyond conveying an idea of just proportions, and essen- tial conditions ; in most cases it is quite impossible to adapt them to any special
plot of ground, because every garden has a shape and position peculiar to itself, but we can do something by showing what are the conditions to be secured in every case; and here let us first remark on the general scheme of a kitchen and fruit garden, apart alto- gether from any special application of it.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
19
A flat surface is preferable for most ordinary crops, but slopes may be made very advantageous for bastening or retarding such things as are prized at particular seasons of the year. Aslope of about fifteen degrees to the south, or east, is far preferable to a slope to the north. The sun is the grand agent in bringing vegetable life to perfection, and without a free current of air, and a moderate exposure to sunshine, winter and summer, the difficulties of gardening will be much increased. If your ground has no shelter on the north side, see what you can effect to produce one. A wall on that side, will give you a south -border for trained fruits and seed-beds on gentle slopes; these would be favourably situated for early sowings, and some crops that are wanted quickly in the spring. A slightly elevated and sloping piece of land, facing the east, will be admirably situated for the first crop of strawber- ries, and, indeed, of many other things, for the hoar-frost will be melted there an hour before it disappears from other parts of the ground. An abundance of trees and shrubs in the immediate vicinity of a garden, is decidedly injurious, they intercept the sun's rays, and prevent that free circu- lation of air, which in spring and autumn are so necessary to dispel damp. To be well placed in all re- spects, a garden should have efficient shelter on the north and east sides ; the south-west is another quarter against which some shelter is desirable, from the violent summer storms which fre- quently do much mischief with hail and hurricanes. Very high and very low positions are equally unfavour- able ; in the first, the ground is ex- posed to wintry blasts and the occasional droughts common in high summer ; and in the other, blights and severe frosts, and excessive damp in autumn may be expected.
As to the shape of a garden, it matters little what it may be ; for ornamental purposes, irregular figures can generally be turned to good ac- count, but the portion assigned to profitable culture, should be as regular in form as possible, so that the com- partments may be easily got at, and
the divisions between them regularly kept. A square or oblong plot is best for the purpose, but there is one point of great importance, and that is, that there should be free ingress and egress, not for the gardener merel)7, but for a horse and cart, so that manure, soil, trees, &c, may be brought in, or carted away, without any excess of wheel- barrow work. As to the extent, nothing definite can be said, beyond this, that an acre is as much as any one person can manage, to do it well ; and even then, an extra hand will be oc- casionally required. One rood well til- led, will supply all the wants of a small family in all ordinary things, but if they aspire to pines, forced-grapes, peaches, and nectarines, and insist on having new potatoes and frame cu- cumbers every day in the year, the exact dimensions necessary cannot be determined except by themselves and their own gardener. A good supply of soft water, a deep loamy soil, facili- ties for obtaining supplies of manure, and nearness to the gardener's resi- dence, are the only remaining qualifi- cations that need here be mentioned.
Now, many readers of these pages have gardens that realise all, or nearly all, of these conditions, and so far they are in " luck's way,'' while many others will consider it only tantalising them, to describe requirements that are quite beyond their reach, for few of us have the power to pick and choose at will; somebody must be located on the ill-placed lots, and whatever the position, extent, or nature of the soil, you must set out, and keep going with a determination to make the best of it. Now, as soon as you have read this chapter, just take a look round, and see if you cannot produce many of the conditions that are described as so desirable. Are there no old and use- less trees, that shut out the best of the morning sun, and prevent you from cropping to advantage some of the best placed pieces you have ? Are there no overgrown hedges that rob you of hundreds of yards of ground, that might be cut in, and converted into fire-wood, pea- sticks, or rubbish to burn into manure ? Are there no choice spots, lifted up out of damp,
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THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
and nicely placed to the first rays of the morning sun, that you might turn to hetter account than you do, and where many choice things would flourish, that you never thought of cultivating ? Are your fruit bushes crowded and cankered, your tree- fruits overgrown, and many of them occupying ground for which their annual crops are no equivalent ; and if none of tliese things that may be al- tered for the better, could you not, by a little earnest labour, improve a bad aspect, and extend your space, so as to gain every inch possible of open soil, on which your skill may have fair play ? I know from what I see everywhere, as I travel up and down the country, that there are few gardens, and es- pecially those of the industrious classes, but might be made to produce double what they do, and everything of better quality, if the tenants had but the courage to cut down an old maple here, or a straggling elder there, or if the fence was repaired, the hedge cut close in, the walks made few and straight, and no wider than three feet, and every inch of wall covered with something either useful, or beautiful, or both. See what j7ou can do as to the figure, extent, and exposure of your ground, before you lay out your plans for crop- ping ; — for good soil, a free ventilation of air, and plenty of sun at all times, are the main elements of the first start in profitable gardening.
Now, whatever the shape, aspect, or quality of the soil, you will find it very advantageous to secure one or two narrow borders under a wall or fence, or, perhaps, you may have a continu- ous border all round, on one side, enjoying early sun, and on another, but little of it. These borders are of great value. In early spring, when the first sowings of lettuce, cabbage, horn carrot and such things are made, a border under a wall is the best place for them, especially if it has the morning and midday sun, and be well drained. All tender things, got in a little before the usual time, would do well in such a position, and many may be safely sown there at a time when they would perish if exposed in the more open ground. The first crop of
ash-leaved kidneys, and a little of every summer vegetable, may be thus obtained a fortnight sooner than in the open ground, and from seed-beds in such a position, plants for putting out may be raised to great advantage. The borders exposed to the north will not be less useful, for the practical gardener is as glad of a shady spot as he is of plenty of sun elsewhere, and many things, lettuce especially, maybe had, late in the season, when those fully exposed to the sun, will be "bolt- ing" to seed. The walls and borders arranged with a continuous walk round them, leave the open space clear for general operations. Here utility must determine the general plan, fancy must be put out of the question. We must have as many large square patches as we can get, with no permanent walks, but narrow alleys, only trodden with the foot, and every year turned over, and fresh ones made elsewhere, unless the extent of the ground renders a permanent walk or two necessary, and then they should be just wide enough for a loaded wheel- barrow to pass freely, and without damage to the plants that grow next the edging.
Reducing these principles to one general scheme, we will suppose the reader in possession of an oblong plot of ground, for that is the figure most common. A wall runs all round ; on the north and east sides it is highest ; lowest on the south ; it is surrounded by a border four, eight, or twelve feet wide, according to the extent of the ground. The walk is three feet and a half wide, but three feet will do, and just allow the barrow to pass conve- niently. These walks ought to be well made, either of good gravel on a deep bottom of clinkers, ashes, or building- rubbish, or of concrete, as Mr._ Beaton advises, thus —
A layer of stones, brick-bats, shells, or clinkers, six inches deep, to form a dry bottom ; a layer of chalk or lime, in the proportion of one to ten of the stones, or other foundation, and well rolled and watered, to the thickness of three inches, with a rise of two inches in the centre ; over this half an inch of gravel and lime, or fine chalk ;
THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
21
water and roll well again ; add one eighth of an inch of the best coloured gravel, and again roll until quite solid. Have the walk two inches wider on
each side than you desire — this checks grass and weeds from encroaching, and prevents the rain-water getting to the foundation of the walk.
(To be continued)
JANUARY WORK FOR GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE.
As this is the time when all the world " turns over a new leaf," the gardener must not be behind-hand in effecting such reforms as the experience of the past may have suggested. It must be " now or never " with those who are making new plantations, or alter- ing or improving old ones. Spring is not far off, and the first stir of the sap in the leafless branches, will be the signal to leave off planting, and all such work should be hurried on whenever the weather gives an oppor- tunity. Roses ought to have been planted long ago, but there is still time to get in briars, and to move worked plants from the nursery-beds to the places they are to permanently occupy. If work presses hard, leave all minor jobs, and get the planting finished, and especially of all deciduous trees and shrubs, for there is no more active cause of ruin to trees and shrubs than moving them after the sap has begun to flow, the result in most cases of needless procrastination. Composts should now be turned over to let the February frosts into them; stacked turf should for the same reason be stirred over, and as fast as one surface of exposed manures is frozen hard, turn it over and expose another — in fact, let the frosts operate freely on all composts and soils as much as possible, and to increase the amount of surface exposed to it, ridge up any vacant patches in the kitchen garden that have not been already so treated.
Kitchen Garden. — Sow small breadths of early peas and beans in sheltered spots, or in frames for trans- planting. At a meeting of the Horti- cultural Society, on the 7th of July last, Mr. McEwen sent three dozen kinds of peas, stating the order of their ripening. The seven earliest were the following : — 1, Sebastopol,
two feet; 2, Eastling's Early Dwarf, eighteen inches ; o, Carter's Earliest, two feet; 4, Sangster's No. 1, three feet ; 5, Emperor, three feet ; 6, Early Nimble, eighteen inches; 7, Harri- son's Glory, three feet. Small sow- ings may be made of lettuces, cauli- flowers, and cabbages in boxes to be forwarded in gentle heat; and plan- tations of horseradish may be made. The ground should be trenched two feet, and fresh manure laid at the bottom of the trench ; then dibble in the crowns in rows, two feet apart, the sets six inches from each other. Asparagus, seakale, and rhubarb may be forced with very little trouble, by making up a hot- bed in an old frame taking up the plants and placing them on it, and covering with any light soil ; if the heat does not hold till the plants have done their work, warm linings must be used. Mr. Fry's sea- kale pot, made by Pascall, of Chisle- hurst, Kent, is an invaluable contri- vance for blanching seakale.
Flower Garden. — Autumn planted Bulbs will soon be pushing through, and though moderate frosts will do them no harm, it is as well to mulch the beds to guard their foliage from the effect of the severe frosts which frequently follow heavy rains at this season. The best beds of tulips should be covered during storms, if there is any indication of a frost following, but if the weather continue mild and open, let them have the benefit of gentle showers. Tulips, however, are the hardest of all bulbs, but hya- cinths, gladiolus, ranunculus, ane- mones, and Cape bulbs generally, need some little protection during severe weather. During dry weather, it is well, at this season, to stir the surface of tulip beds, to give air to the roots and lay the soil, finely broken,
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THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
against the stems. After frosts, look over the borders, and where plants have been lifted, press the earth close about them. Have at hand fern, dry litter, or mats, to pro- tect any out-door things of question- able hardiness, but do not keep them swathed up longer than is strictly necessary. Guyot's straw protectors, exhibited at the Society's autumn fruit show, are the best and cheapest of all coverings for cold fra'-nes; small subjects, such as pansies, may be pro- tected by means of a garden pot, turned over, and with the hole stopped ; this should be removed every morning, when the weather is not too severe. Beds of pinks should now be top- dressed with rotten dung. Auriculas, pansies, carnations, and other her- baceous plants in pots, must have plenty of air and moderate waterings, for they are now beginning to grow — for all such things a north aspect is best during the whole of this month, for the morning sun is often more in- jurious to them than one or two extra degrees of frost. Prepare ground for plantations of dahlias, hollyhocks, carnations, and chrysanthemums. If well trenched and broken up with dung now, it will be in much better condition at planting time than if made ready at the last moment.
Greenhouse — The cultivator must be daily on his guard against severe weather, and rapid growth must not be promoted. Camellias, and other plants coming into bloom, should be kept liberally moist, and should have weak manure-water once a week; they should be placed in the warmest parts of the house ; ericas, epacris, &c, may have cooler places. Bedding plants may now be started for cuttings, where there are good appliances for propaga- ting ; but, where resources are limited, it would be better to wait till next month. Fuchsias of good sorts should now be repotted in peat and fibrous loam, and started for early blooming, and such as it may be desirable to pro- pagate, will soon furnish cuttings for
the purpose. Canceol arias, cinerarias, geraniums, and primulas, should have a warm position, and moderate supplies of water ; those that require it should be cleaned and shifted, and all plants showing trusses should have weekly doses of manure water, and abundance of light, and as much air as the state of the weather will permit. If you have not potted tropoeolurns do it at once, and train every day as they make growth. Watch for green fly and fumigate before mischief is done. Keep the house as clean and dry as possible, and admit air on fine days whenever the temperature outside rises above 35 degs., and especially among heaths and hard wooded plants. Keep succulents quite dry. Temperature 40 degs. to 45 degs. at night, 50 degs. to 55 degs. by day.
Stove At this season it is neces- sary to guard against premature excitement, the solar light being in- sufficient to sustain a healthy, rapid growth ; hence, water must be given sparingly, and the breaking of the plants retarded as much as possible till next month, by the maintenance of a very moderate temperature ; on the other hand, stove plants that are now coming into bloom, or such things as are forced in the stove for green- house and conservatory embellishment, should have every encouragement. Forced roses should be looked over, and the buds examined for the detec- tion of grubs, and the drainage of large pots should be looked to, to see that no stoppage occurs. Plants in- tended for specimens, must be repotted as they require it. Orchids and ferns may be repotted and separated where desirable ; Poinsettia puleherrima, and Euphorbia jacquiniflora, may be taken to the greenhouse if the temperature there ranges about 50 degs., and a few achimines and gloxinias may be put in heat for early blooming. Cu- cumbers and melons for early use, should be got in at once. Average temperature of the stove this month, 60 degs.
23
SELECTION OF GREENHOUSE SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS.
The following are subjects of easy culture, and every way adapted to the requirements of beginners, being mostly free bloomers, offering con- siderable diversity of character, as to habit, and season of flowering. They are also comparatively inexpensive, and obtainable at any respectable nursery. Those marked thus (*) are most de- sirable for small collections.
SHRUBBY PLANTS.
*Acacia armata Yellow. . .May to June
A. Lambertiana Purple... „
A. Pulchella Yellow... „
Adenandra uniflora...Pink ...April to July „ umbellata Pink ... „
♦Azalea indica In var ...Mar. to May
*Borronia serrulata. . .Bed June to July
„ pinnata Purple Feb. to May
Bouvardia tryphilla Scarlet April to Nov. *Camellia japonica ...In var... Jan. to May
*Chorozema cordata Bed April
*C. Dicksonii Scarlet July
Coleonema tenuifolia Eose ...March *Cytisus tomentosus Yellow ..July to Aug.
Daphne odora Purple .. .March to Dec.
Diosma cupressiua . . .Pink . . .June to July *Elichrysum fulgidum Yellow July *Epacris grandirlora Crimson Jan. to June
,, nivalis White... „"
,, impressa ...Crimson „
*Erica splendens Scarlet... April to Sept.
* „ grandiflora ...Yellow. ..May to Sept.
* „ aristatamajor Scarlet... Mar. to April
* ,, Shanoniana \ n , > June
I Purple )
* „ Massoni ... ( ^ed & I July to Oct.
( Green ) J
Gardenia radicans ...White ...Mar. to June *Genista canariensis Yellow. ..May to Sept. Jasminum odoratissi-
mum White.. .May to Nov.
Nerium splendens ...Pink ...June to Oct.
* „ oleander ...Bed August
„ ,, album White... June to Oct. Pultensea obcordata Yellow May to July *Salvia fulgens Scarlet May to Sept.
* ,, patens Blue ... „
CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS.
""Bignonia grandiflora Orange July to Aug.
*Cobea scandens Purple May to Oct.
Erythrina crista-galli Scarlet May to July
Gompholobium poly-
morphum Yellow Mar. to Aug.
Jasminum revolutum Yellow Mar. to Sept.
Kennedia prostrata... Scarlet April to June „ nigricans ...Purple Mar. to June
*Maurandia Barclay- ana ,, .Purple April to Dec.
Lophospermum Var. ...July to Nov.
*Mandevilla sauveo-
lens White. ..June to Aug.
*Passiflora ceridea ra-
cemosa Purple June to Oct.
Sollyaheterophylla...Blue ...July to Oct. *Thunbergia alata ...Yellow... May to Sept. „ alba ...White ...May to Sept.
*Tropeeolum tricolor-
um Orange-purple. . . May to Aug.
„ azureum ...Azure ...May to Nov.
* „ brachyceras Yellow. ..May to Sept.
* „ majus flore
pleno Orange Aug to May
T .... (Scarlet) T » Jarrattu 1 Yellow }June
SELECTION OF FRUITS FOR
SMALL GARDENS. Any of the following may be selected with safety, according to the space of ground to be planted. The list contains only such sorts as are most renowned for merit, and, generally speaking, adapted to the greatest variety of soils and situations. They are all obtainable at moderate prices, with the exception of the Salway Peach, which was lately let out by Mr. Turner : —
Apples. — Blenheim Orange, Nonpareil, Lord Sufrield, Cornish GiUiflower, Bibstoue, Pippin, King of Pippins, Court of Wick, Kerry Pippin, Golden Beinette.
Pears. — Jargonelle,Williams'BonChretien, Bergamotte, Marie Louise, Pas Colmar, Winter Nelis, Swan's Egg.
Plums. — Greengage, Chapman's Prince of Wales, Coe's Golden Drop, Victoria, Wash- ington, Jefferson.
Cherries. — Bigarreau, Black Tartarian, Elton, Downton, May Duke, Morello.
Apricots. — Moor Park, Breda, Boyal.
Peaches* — Grosse M ignonne, Boyal George , Noblesse, Old Mewington, Late Admirable, Salway.
Nectarines. — Elruge, Early Newingtou, Roman, Orange, and Downton.
Grapes. — For open walls : Dutch Sweet- water, Black Esperione, Miller's Burgundy, White Frontignan, July Black Cluster.
Grapes — Requiring heat: Golden Ham- burgh,CannonHallMnscat,BlackHamburgh, Chasselas Masque, White Tokay.
Currants. — Black Naples, Monstros de Berry, Red Victoria, White Grape, White Dutch.
Raspberries. — Carter's Prolific, Fastolf, Red and White Antwerp, Rivers's Double bearing.
Strawberries. — Black Prince, Kitley's Goliah, Keene's Seedling, British Queen, Sir Harry, Filbert Pine.
24
CLIMBERS FOR NORTH WALLS.
Stauntonia latifolia. Jasminnm officinale. Clematis Montana. Common Fig. Irish and variegated Ivv Virginian Creeper
ROSES.
Filicite perpetuelle, and any of the Ayrshires.
Cotoneaster mycroyhylla, Chimonanthes fragrans. C. Grandiflora.
The three last named are the least hardy, and will only do in a north aspect in the south of England, or in positions well sheltered.
METEOROLOGICAL CALENDAR FOR JANUARY.
|
3 DAI |
WEATHER NEAR LONDON, JAN., 1857. 1 |
3 |
WEATHER NEAR LONDON, JAN., 1857. |
||||||||
|
rs. |
BAROMETER. |
THERMOM. |
WIND. |
RAIN. |
DATS. |
BAROMETER. |
THERMOM. |
WIND. |
RAIN. |
||
|
MAX. M1N. |
MX.MN. MN. |
MAX. MIN. |
MX. MN. MN. |
||||||||
|
F. |
1 |
30.063—29.908 |
53 40 46.5 |
VV |
.10 |
s- |
17 |
30-295-30.J61 |
46 36 41.0 |
W |
.00 |
|
S. |
2 |
29.722—29.684 |
51 35 43.0 |
W |
.06 |
M. |
18 |
30.277—30.232 |
50 44 47.0 |
W |
.00 |
|
s. |
3 |
29.266—29.110 |
50 37 43.5 |
sw |
.04 i |
Tu |
19 |
30.256— 30.1S7 |
4S 25 36.5 |
NW |
.02 |
|
M. |
4 |
29.374—29.119 |
42 33 37.5 |
sw |
.12 |
VV. |
20 |
29.730—29.308 |
44 29 36-5 |
SW |
.17 |
|
Tn |
r> |
30.043—29.781 |
35 28 31.5 |
NE |
.00 |
Th |
21 |
29.679—29.447 |
39 24 31.5 |
w |
.00 |
|
W. |
6 |
30.279—30.032 |
36 25 30.5 |
NE |
.00 |
F. |
22 |
29.791—29.510 |
43 32 37.5 |
sw |
•13 |
|
Th |
7 |
30.346—30.304 |
35 28 31.5 |
NE |
.00 |
s. |
23 |
29.355—29.145 |
45 31 38.0 |
w |
.04 |
|
F. |
8 |
30.308—30.221 |
42 35 38.5 |
E |
.11 |
S. |
24 |
29.126-29.062 |
42 33 37.5 |
NW |
.17 |
|
S. |
9 |
30.143—29.797 |
48 40 44.0 |
SW |
.71 |
M. |
25 |
29.594—29.229 |
39.30 34.5 |
NK |
.05 |
|
s. |
Id |
29.589—28.989 |
51 38 44.5 |
W |
.27 |
Tu. |
26 |
29.805—29.613 |
36 30 33.0 |
NE |
.13 |
|
M. |
11 |
29.292—28.940 |
45 24 34.5 |
w |
.07 |
W. |
27 |
29.865—29.847 |
36 19 27.5 |
NE |
.00 |
|
Tu |
12 |
29.215—29.096 |
45 29 37.0 |
w |
.00 |
Th |
2S |
29.839-29.766 |
37 18 27.5 |
NE |
.00 |
|
W. |
13 |
30.338-29.193 |
37 2S 32.5 |
E |
.00 |
F. |
29 |
29.872—29.778 |
32 14 23.0 |
N |
.00 |
|
Th. |
11 |
30.141—29.944 |
38 18 28.0 |
N |
00 |
S. |
30 |
29.841—29.615 |
38 30 34.0 |
NW |
.00 |
|
F. |
IS |
30.06?-29.954 |
42 29 35.5 |
8VV |
.10 |
s. |
31 |
29.S49— 29-597 |
39 8 23 5 |
SW |
.00 |
|
s. |
16 |
30.217—30.047 45 26 35.5 |
W |
.00 |
AVERAGES FOR THE ENSUING MONTH. During the past sixteen years, the average temperatures near London have been : — Max., 43° ; min., 33°; mean. 3Sa; the average reading of the barometer, 29,907; and the fall of rain 1.9 inches. The highest temperature observed during thirty-two years past occurred on the 19th, 1828, when the thermometer registered 60s ; and the lowest on the 14th, 1838- 4°.
PHASES OP THE MOON FOR JANUARY, 1858. C Last Quarter, 7th, 12h. 47m. a.m. C New Moon, 15th, 4h. 28m. a.m.
J First Quarter, 22nd, 4h. 57m. p.m. O Full Moon, 29th, 8h. 49m. a.m.
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
Preserving Fruit. — B. B.— Your plan of packing apples and pears in damp hay, and shutting them close down in a box, caused a brisk fer- mentation, and it is not surprising that the greater part are now proved to be rotten. Sort them over at once, set apart for immediate use those that are only partially spoilt, and pack the rest in some dry straw, out of the reach of frost and light. Fruit should be quite dry when stored, and the cooler the place assigned to it the better, so that it is safe against frost.
Names of Plants.— Since naming plants gives much trouble, and the replies occupy space for information uselul only to the parties Bending them, we beg our readers not to expect us to assist them in a task which a reference to a botanical work would, in most cases, render un- necessary.
S. E. D. Burnley. — Heating by Gas, Training the Raspberry, and Improving Collections of Fruit, next month.
Keeping out Frost. — Harry. — You may keep the frost out of your pits by a free and judicious use of matting; thatched hurdles are very con- venient for the purpose, because easily lifted off and on, and creating no litter. We have many a time put a lighted rushlight into a small pit, on a sharp night, and with a mat or two kept all safe. In a greenhouse, or small conservatory without a flue, a large stone bottle, painted black, and filled at night with boiling water, will be found to radiate sufficient heat to keep tHe temperature from sinking to freezing point.
Frozen Plants.— Hyacinth.— To recover plants touched with frost, it is best to thaw them as slowly as possible, and in the dark. Light and moisture at such a time are ruin to plants of delicate constitution, and, if they recover at all, it can only be by thawing them gradually, as in a cool cellar, or some place only one or two degrees warmer than freezing point.
*#* Our readers will please to consider all coloured illustrations as gifts. We do not pledge ourselves to give them at any time, though we hope occasionally to do so,
THE
February, 1858.
O one who has enjoyed an hour at Kew Gardens, but must ever after take a lively interest in all that relates to the maintenance of that splendid establish- ment, the interests of which have for so many years been most zealously cared for by that eminent botanist, Sir William Hooker. Professional gardeners and students of horticulture, to whom it is a place of frequent resort, have long ^l been aware of a fact which the public i generally have scarcely yet become ac- quainted with — that the choicest part of that unrivalled collection has entered on its decline, and will, perhaps, be I speedily lost to the nation, for want of a little pecuniary help from the public purse. More than two years ago, Sir William Hooker called the attention of Sir Benjamin Hall to the condition of the stately Conifers of Australia and New Zealand, and the splendid palms and shrubs of the tropics, as " suffering beyond recovery for want of suitable winter shelter ;" but though the matter was named in the House of Commons, the First Com- missioner declined to render the least help, because the estimates were heavy, and the nation could not afford to provide shelter for a few of its choicest botanical pets. Sir William is not the man to be disheartened by trifles, and he appealed again — that though many of the Chilian, Mexican, and Norfolk Island trees and shrubs — " for the possession of which the Royal Gardens of Kew have long been celebrated" — had suffered beyond recovery, and could only be mentioned "in the past tense," others might " yet be restored by the needful amount of space, light, and temperature," which would be afforded them in a conservatory constructed especially to meet their wants, for " during sixteen years of NO II. — vol. i. c
26 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
my directorship no addition has been made for the accommodation of these kinds of plants." This appeal was as unsuccessful as the former ; and specimens of the finest trees in the world, which need only slight protection from the frosts of winter, are now to be seen huddled together in the houses they have outgrown — perishing in darkness, or compelled to brave out the trials of an English winter, every blast of which hastens their ultimate demise, because the nation cannot afford them simple house room.
No expensive constructions are asked for, no new palm-houses requiring costly arrangements for ventilating and heating, but a plain conservatory, in which they can enjoy the daylight, secure from winter frost, and which, as a winter garden, would be a new source of pleasure to every visitor to Kcw ; and if this is not afforded them at once, the remnant of the noblest collection of plants in Europe, still including gems of priceless value, which have not yet succumbed, Avill be sacrificed for ever. The nation readily provides salaries, bounties, grants, and dowries ; but, as repre- sented by the •administrators of its means, a quarter of an acre of glass stands between it and bankruptcy. For the sake of our name and fame, as well as for the interests of horticulture, with which every phase of our national progress is identified, we do hope that another session will not be allowed to pass without a fair consideration of the claims of Sir "William Hooker on behalf of his family at Kew.
The year 1858 is to be crowned with a garland of roses, and the vexed question of rose catalogues, and the well-fought battle of the new and old roses, so differently conducted to that of the historical flowers of York and Lancaster, will have a profitable issue. On the first of July we are to have a " grand national rose show," open to all exhibitors in their respective classes, in London ; the object being to give fair play to all exhibitors and all roses ; and if some of the leading points in rose con- troversy are not then cleared up, it will be no fault of the promoters of this truly national undertaking, which will be literally a " feast of roses," worth the sacrifice of time and railway fare, and will afford the best opportunity ever yet offered of comparing varieties and making selections. Subscriptions in furtherance of the design, are earnestly requested from all lovers of the rose, and will be received by Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth ; Mr. Paul, of Cheshunt ; Mr. Turner, of Slough ; and the Eev. S. Keynolds Hole, of Caunton Manor, Newark, Notts. The last-named gentleman is open to communicate with rose growers interested in the exhibition.
The Horticultural Society has announced the following meetings and exhibitions: — On the 2nd of February, a meeting at Regent-street, when eight prizes will be awarded ; five for Camellias in threes and sixes ; three for miscellaneous groups of flowering plants, in sixes ; and certifi- cates for other objects. On the 2nd of March, there will be an exhibition of Hyacinths, Rhododendrons, Cinerarias, Primulas, and forced vegetables, with a liberal list of awards. On the 21st and 22nd of April, the grand spring meeting will take place in St. James's Hall, the chief items in the schedule being Hyacinths, Tulips, Marcissi, Fancy Pelargoniums, Camel- lias, and Roses, Foliage Plants and Fruits, and an additional prize of £5 ottered by a V. P. H. S. tor the best Pine Apple of any kind. The Grand Garden Show will take place at Chiswick, on the 9th and 10th of June,
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 27
■when there will be a brilliant display of Orchids, Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Eoses, Azaleas, Pelargoniums, Cut Flowers, and Fruit. On the 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th of the same month, so as to include the two days of the Grand Flower Show, there will be an exhibition of Horticultural Manu- factures, including apparatus for heating, mowing machines, garden tools, cutlery, pottery, objects of decoration, philosophical instruments, pro- tecting materials, bee hives, &c. The grand autumn meeting will take place at St. James's Hall, on the 17th and 18th of November, when Fruit, Chrysanthemums, and Foliage Plants, will be the chief objects of attraction. Arrangements are in progress for the formation of a jury, to meet monthly, for the examination of all new fruits that may be submitted to them. Among the announcements of local shows, we may mention that two will take place in the Bristol Zoological Gardens, on the 2nd of June, and the 8th of September ; and the Brighton and Sussex Floricultural Society will hold two shows of two days each, the first on June 30th and July 1st, and the second on the 15th and 16th of September. Three Horticultural Exhibitions are announced to take place at the Crystal Palace, as follows: Wednesday, May 19th; Wednesday, June 16th; and Wednesday and Thursday, September 8th and 9th. On the 4th of this month, the Pomo- logical Society will meet to consider the merits of fruits submitted, in accordance with the schedule noticed by us last month. Sub- scribers to that useful charity, the Gardeners' Eoyal Benevolent Institution, will hear with pleasure that Michael Quigley, Martha Gar- diner, Elizabeth Pope, and William Jackson, were elected pensioners on the loth instant, when an election of officers for the ensuing year, took place as follows: — Eobert Wrench, Esq., treasurer; J. J. Mechi, Esq., vice-president; Mr. J. Veitch, jun., trustee; Edward Bosher, Esq., arbitrator ; Messrs. Charlwood, Lea, and Forsyth, auditors ; Messrs. J. A. Henderson, Rivers, Atlee, Shereard, Page, and Bruce, committee ; and Mr. E. B. Cutler, re-elected secretary.
Death has snatched from us two names of eminence in the annals of Horticulture — the Duke of Devonshire, and Dr. Eoyle. The Duke of Devonshire was a munificent patron of horticulture, and, with a liberal hand, gave encouragement to all the higher departments of plant-culture, and its associative architectural accessories. Chatsworth had a world- wide renown, both as a school which has sent many a brave spirit into the world, and as an example of the refined tastes of its noble possessor, who, in every sense of the Avord, was a man of science, and a gentleman. His Grace died on Monday, the 18th of January last, aged 68 years. Dr. Royle's death occurred on the 2nd of January last. He was one of the most distinguished botanists of this present century, and the first authority on the agriculture and plants of the East. His " Materia Medica " is, in itself, a splendid monument of diligent research, and high ability in generalisation.
^O-OCOCKj*
28
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
IMPROVING COLLECTIONS OF FRUIT.
N most cases of complaint about fruit failures, people have themselves to blame only, and, per- haps, there is no one department of horticul- ture in which more mistakes are made than in the management of hard}' fruits. Four j'ears ago, I came into the possession of a piece of ground of
about thirty acres, at R , near Southampton.
For distinction's sake, the place is called a fruit garden, but about one-third of the ground is devoted to rotation cropping, and we find mangels, swedes, Italian rye-grass, and market vegetables, to pay best ; and we keep five cows, and generally half-a-dozen breeding pigs. When I took pos- session, there was an immense stock of apple, pear, plum, and currant trees on the ground ; they had been well planted originally, but for ten years, at least, had been going steadily to ruin. The trees were cankered ; the bush fruits had grown into a wilderness ; the apples were eaten up with American blight, and their trunks were blotched all over with running sores ; it was truly disheartening to go over the ground and see the havoc that time, assisted by neglect, had made. The ground varies a good deal as to level, and there is scarcely half-an-acre that can be called flat ; the higher parts are a rich loam, resting on clay, and these shelve down in trowel- shaped slopes to the river, where the land gets more clayey, and is occasionally flooded. On one good piece, lying towards one of the lower levels, there were originally five hundred orchard apple trees, mostly Keswick and Manx Codlings; and on another piece, placed rather higher, a large stock of Ribstone and Golden Pippins, all terribly cankered, and seemingly unable to produce another fruit as long as they should continue to linger. By cutting a few trenches, the first autumn, we made acquaintance with the nature of the sub-soil, and saw what was the first thing to be done ; the trees were, on the lower piece, perishing of cold feet ; they had, in fact, sent their roots down into a bog, and had but few surface fibres. There were six acres on one slope with a good fall, and here we made our first step in draining. We drained the whole with four-inch pipes, putting a row of pipes between each row of trees, at thirty-five feet dis- tance, and then proceeded to dress the surface soil. On one part of the ground was an immense heap of rubbish, chiefly road-scrapings and turf; this was turned over and wheeled on to the ground, and with it all the manure we could scrape together. We then spread this mixture of manure and turfy rub- bish under the trees, about four inches thick, and forked the ground regularly all over, and round every tree cut a trench, so as to shorten in all the roots. A few of the worst at the lowest part we treated differently, for at one side of each we worked away till we got to the tap roots, and these we cut through with a chisel, so as to cut off all connection between the tree and the lower stratum of the soil. On the ground higher up, we contented ourselves with waiting till December, and then we removed the top soil from around every tree, and ridged it up, so as to expose the roots to the frost. At the end of January, during mild weather, we commenced a general cleaning and pruning. We made an immense quantity of lime-paint, as follows : — To every bushel of lime we added four pounds of flower of sulphur, mixed the whole with water into a thick paint, and, after scraping off" the loose bark, painted every tree with it. Those that had been bared to the roots we painted as low down as possible, and then returned the earth that had been ridged up.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 29
When we came to the pruning, we cut clean away every dead branch, and made only a moderate thinning where the trees were crowded, for I determined that a too severe use of the knife might prove injurious. All the wounds in the stems were stopped with clay and tarred over, and a week afterwards we went over the stoppings, and repaired any that had cracked, and laid on a fresh coat of tar. Many of the trees that appeared scarcely worth the labour were felled, and a few, for experiment's sake, were grafted, in the following March, on the old stocks ; but as few of them have come to any good, I shall say nothing about it beyond this — that, if a tree decays owing to inefficient root- action, re-grafting the stock is just a waste of time and labour. In dressing the pears — of which we had a hundred Bon Chretien, and about two hundred and fifty other kinds — mostly Standard Beurre Diel, Swan's Egg, and Catillac — we made a regular thinning of the branches, but not to the extent that they required — for I never like to deal rashly with anything, and prefer summer pruning as the safest. But the greatest trouble we had with these was owing to the suckers, which formed a sort of little forest round every tree, and in some cases had started up between the rows at fifteen or twenty feet distance from the stems. But, as the trees were generally healthy, and, to all appear- ance, had done well, we determined to take a little extra trouble with them. We had a stack of turf burning at the time, and we carted up from the river-side an immense quantity of sedge and clay, and burnt this with the turf ; and when we had got a good stock, I had all hands to work at the roots of the pear trees. We took off the top spit, cutting away all the suckers at the same time, but doing as little injury as possible to the surface fibres ; and then, at a distance of five feet from each tree, cut a deep circular trench, and cut in every root to that boundary. We then filled in the trenches with rubble, consisting of brick- bats, old mortar, and other dry rubbish, which we rammed in as hard as pos- sible ; and over the surface of the exposed roots, within the circumference of the trench, we laid down six inches of turf, and over that a layer of the charred rubbish, and then some of the original surface soil, to the same level as it was before.
As for the bush fruits, we literally slaughtered them. The currants had been originally planted at only three feet distant each way, and had all grown together into " bush ; " but, in spite of that, the long rods, which, the previous season, had not been shortened, were splendidly covered with fruit buds, and the black currant and gooseberries had abundance of young stems, as well as a wilderness of watery spray. The red and white currants we cut to skeletons, taking out from their base every ill-placed shoot, so as to leave the bushes open ; and in shortening in the previous summer growth, respect was paid, as much as possible, to the clusters of buds at the base of each — so characteristic of the fruiting of these useful trees. We at the same time took out every other bush all over each plantation, forked in some half-rotten dung over the whole surface, and burnt about a thousand of those that were removed.
In February we planted between every thirty-feet row of fruit trees, black currants, which like partial shade and a moist bottom ; on the higher and drier portions we made plantations of gooseberry ; and on the low, flat clay near the river, we planted red Autwerp and Fastolf raspberry. I then made up a nursery — got plenty of Paradise and Quince stocks, and the next spring took scions from all the best sorts of apple and pear, adding scions of other sorts not in the collection ; and now I have such a stock of young stuff, that I shall be able to plant twelve acres with young apples, pears, and cherries, and, having raised a few thousand young red and black currants from the best canes taken at winter prunings, shall soon have a fine collection to replace those that have become old and useless.
I expected a good result from draining and dressing, and was not dis- appointed. The trees have ever since borne well, and are getting their gaps well filled up with new wood, and are pictures of health. Last season, our
30
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
crops were enormously heavy, but there was a good deal of blight on the apples. Instead of painting them, however, I shall, before they break this
collection of Peaches and Cherries, but no vines, I shall syringe with ammo- niacal liquor from the gas-works, diluted with six times the quantity of water, and used quite hot. I shall do this just as the buds are opening, and I know that all their enemies will be settled for at least a season.
G. 'J'.
;v;jo;:-:ckcj; :■:■:
NEW STOVE AND GEEENHOUSE PLANTS.
INTRODUCED LAST YEAR.
Selected from the "National Garden Almanack, 1858.
GREENHOUSE AND COOL STOVE. Achimenes rosea magnified. A desirable addition to the plants of this class ; flowers large, rosy purple, the eye spotted with yellow. A garden hybrid. Mr. Parsons.
Achimenes splendens. (Illust. Bouquet. 10.) Also called Tapina splendens. A beautiful dwarf trailing stove perennial, adapted for baskets ; flowers numerous, separate, from the axils of the broad crowded tufted leaves ; rich glowing scarlet, gemmate with warts around the throat. New Grenada. Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son.
Aii&otochilus Veitchi. A handsome dwarf stove orchidaceous plant, for bell-glass cul- ture ; leaves very handsome, green, beauti- fully streaked and veined with silver. India. Messrs. Veitch and Sons. '
Arduina grandiflora. An evergreen green- house shrub, with sweet-scented white blossoms, also bearing crimson fruit, which are said to be richly flavoured. South Africa. Messrs. Eollisson.
Bovardia Hogarth. (Illust. Bouq. t. 3.) A handsome greenhouse or half-hardy sub- shrub, with Ixora-like bunches of flowers ; deep salmon pink, with a paler tube. A garden hybrid (longiflora X leiantha). Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son.
Bouvardia Laura. (Illust. Bouq. t. 3.) A fine greenhouse or half-hardy sub-shrub, with large Ixora-like bunches of flowers ; pale pink. A garden hybrid (longiflora X leiantha). Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son.
Calythrix virgata. A neat and elegant, though not showy, greenhouse evergreen shrub, of slender, spreading almost pendant habit, with heath-like branches, and nume- rous white starry flowers in bunches. N. Holland. Messrs. A. Henderson and Co. Camellia reticulata flore-pleno. (Bot. Mag.
t. 4976.) This differs from the common sort in having the flowers loosely double ; they are of the same, or even a brighter rich rose colour, and larger, sometimes 5^ inches in diameter. A magnificent conservatory bush. China. Messrs. Standish and Noble. Cyancphyllum magniflcum. A fine-leaved nielastomaceous plant, the leaves being very large, a foot long, and nearly half as much wide, and beautifully stained with purple on the under surface. New Grenada. M. Linden. Doronicum Baurgcei. (Bot. Mag. t. 4994.) A branched erect greenhouse sub-shrub, with purple cineraria-like flowers, the leaves lyrate pinnatifid ; a showy and free- growing plant, intimately related to cineraria. Canary Isles. Kew Botanic Gardens.
Echeveria canaliculata. (Bot. Mag., t. 4986.) One of a set of curious and pretty succulent greenhouse shrubs, with a short upright stem, oblong, tapering, fleshy leaves tinged with purple, and racemes of flowers of a bright brick red, orange within. Mexico. Kew Botanic Gardens.
Epigynmm acuminatum. (Bot. Mag., t.) 5010.) A beautiful vaccinaceous evergreen shrub of dwarf habit, probably requiring only a greenhouse ; flowers abundant, coral red, in drooping corymbs from the stem below the leaves. Bhotan and Khasya. Mr. Nuttall.
Eucharis amazonica. (Flore d. Serres, t. 1216 — 1217.) A charming evergreen bul- bous stove plant, with broad deep green leaves and large white flowers, the central cup tinged with green. The flowers are upwards of 4 inches in diameter, pendant from the top to an erect scape, and having a slender curved tube ; related to and closely resembling E. grandiflora, of which it is, perhaps, a large flowered variety. Para. N. Linden.
Gardenia citriodora. (Bot. Mag., t.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
31
4987.) A neat stove or warm greenhouse evergreen shrub, remarkably free flowering ; flowers pure white, deliciously scented, numerous, in short clusters from the axils of the leaves. Natal. Chelsea Botanic Gardens.
Grevillea alpestris. (Bot. Mag., t. 5007.) A pretty greenhouse evergreen shrub, bear- ing copious showy bright red curved flowers, merging into yellow in the upper half. South Australia. Messrs. Rollisson.
Grevillea Drnmmondi. A fine evergreen greenhouse shrub, interesting and distinct- looking, but not showy ; habit erect ; leaves finely divided; flowers in racemes, cream coloured. Swan Eiver. Messrs. Veitch and Son.
Hydrangea (japonlcd) aureo-varlegata superba. A fine-looking vigorous green- house shrub, bearing large foliage, with bold straw-coloured variegations, quite distinct from the white variegated kinds. A garden variety. Mr. Salter.
Monochietum ensiferum. (Must. Bouq., t. 8.) A charming greenhouse soft-wooded shrub, of remarkably neat bushy habit; foliage small, cheerful ; flowers vivid rose colour, like Chironia, the scarlet claw-like stamens remaining gay after the patals have fallen. Oaxaca, Mexico. Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son.
Statice macrojitera. A handsome green- house perennial, with the habit of S. Halfordi, but with the leaves lobed at the base ; the flower-stems very broadly winged ; flowers violet and white. Probably a gar- den variety between S. Halfordi and S. imbricata. Mr. Glendinning.
Veronica decussata Devoniana. (Must. Bouq. t. 3.) A handsome compact grow- ing evergreen greenhouse or half-hardy shrub, the growth resembling a miniature Crassula, the flowers in globose heads, pure white. A garden variety. J. Luscombe, Esq.
CULTURE AND TRAINING OF THE RASPBERRY.
This useful fruit is but too often very carelessly grown, not by cottagers only, but by gardeners of some pre- tentions. Its luxuriant productive- ness, even when the least care is bestowed upon it. leads to its almost total neglect in some places. It is common enough to see the canes left till spring impruned, and tied up in close bundles to stakes, in which position they get neither light nor air sufficiently, and, for want of short- ening in, the produce is far inferior to what might be had if a little cultural skill were exercised.
In planting the raspberry, a damp situation, in which many other things would perish, may be chosen. It likes a deep rich moist loam, and an anuual dressing of half-rotten manure. We have grown the raspberry with much success in trenches, cut one foot below the general level of the ground, and which were speedily rilled with water during heavy sum- mer rains. In autumn, the end of each trench was opened to carry off the surface-water into the regular drainage of the garden, and after the canes came into leaf in spring, they were closed up again to allow of the trenches being filled with liquid ma-
nure, and to give them the full benefit of rains. On dry sandy soils, this plan would obviate the difficulties attendant on raspberry culture, be- cause the trenches could be filled to a depth of two feet with a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and rotten dung, or the top spit of a shallow soil could be turned into trenches cut four feet apart.
The raspberry may be planted any time from October to March, and as it is one of the few things that may be moved late with safety, we gene- rally defer planting till the end of February, when they do as wrell as if planted in autumn. In making a new plantation, we prefer taking up the old stools and removing the plumpest suckers, rather than merely drawing away suckers from stools still in the ground. If planted three in a group, each group four feet apart, and the rows six feet asunder, there will he plenty of room for a system of open training, and if they enjoy plenty of moisture all the growing season, the fruit will be as fine as the sort grown, and that particular soil are capable of producing.
Whatever mode of training be adopted, it should be remembered
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THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
that the canes which bear fruit this I fruit, and four others were allowed to
present season will die in the autumn, rise in the centre. At the end of the
and have to be cut away, and while '
they are in bearing condition, others
will rise from the stools to take their
place next season, hence the bearing
canes should be so trained as to allow
the suckers to rise without obstruction
in the enjoyment of a free circulation
of air and plenty of light. If a
plantation of raspberries gets crowded,
the old canes choke the young ones,
and the stocks get more lean and
feeble every year, and at last cease to
be profitably productive.
season, the canes trained out were cut away, and the new canes tied out to take their place for the next season, thus giving the bearing canes free exposure, and keeping the centre of each stool always open. Another method that has been described is to plant in rows six feet apart, and the canes three together, four feet apart in each row, and exactly opposite each other all through the piece. At the end of the first season, the year old canes are pruned away, and the young ones are bent down and made to meet each other so as to form arches
Another mode of planting is to put in single canes along a rough espalier fence of hazel rods, or against a wire trellis, the canes two feet apart, so as to allow two or three bearing canes to each, to be trained in at equal distances as they rise. Training on hoops, supported on light stakes, is a good
plan in the open ground, but the prettiest raspberry plantation we ever saw, was managed thus : — They were planted in rows three and a half feet apart, and five feet from each other in the rows. Each stool was allowed to send up only four canes, and these were trained out to short stakes, put in at equal distances from the centre of each plant; the canes, when tied out to the stakes, being shortened in to two feet and a half each. During the summer, the canes trained out bore
across the six-feet space, and the four feet space remains open for tillage, and the growth of suckers, and may, of course, be used for crops of small things, such as lettuce, cabbage, &c, which will not rob the raspberries if the ground is kept in good heart, and the rows well watered during dry weather. The next season the old canes would be cut away, and the young ones bent over the four-feet space, and shortened so as just to meet for tying together, and through that season the six-feet space would be cropped with vegetables and salads just as the four- feet space was the
THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
33
previous year. Other modes of train- ing in arches have been adopted, but
none are equal to this plan of changing the space covered every year. The
figures represent six different ways of training, either on walls, trellises, hoops, or in arches, and as they are all simple and unattended with ex- pense, we strongly advise every grower of this much esteemed fruit to aban- don the injurious practice of planting the canes or tying them in bundles as if they were osiers for basket making. Among the best sorts we may name the good old red Antwerp, and the Fastolf as still taking the lead ; Carter's Prolific is an excellent sort for fruit- fulness, but we are not sure that its flavour is equal to the Antwerp. Rivers's double bearing is good for a late crop, and should be cut down to within three or four inches of the ground in spring. Cutbush's Prince of Wales is a raspberry of immense strength.
BEATON ON VINE CULTURE.
In my review of the late glorious season, I referred to Mr. Beaton's ex- periments in vine pruning, the results of which were made known at the October meeting, at Willis's Rooms, in the exhibition there of the experimen- tal bunches. I will now briefly state the conclusions arrived at by Mr. Beaton, and as communicated to the pages of that best of the weekly horti- cultural journals, the Cottage Gardener; and as the Floral World is not pro- jected for poaching enterprises, but for the communication of original intelli- gence on gardening matters, I shall not trench on Mr. Beaton's outline of gene- ral culture, which is given in his usual hearty and explicit way, but confine myself to the subject of pruning, solely in accordance with my promise. In 1852, Mr. Beaton planted, on an open Avail, at Surbiton, expressly for experimental purposes, a Black Espe- rione vine. It was allowed to bear a few bunches in 1856, and in 1857 was submitted to the experimental pruning. " There were," he says, " three prin- cipal young shoots and some smaller ones. I pruned them all with a view to the experiment ; but, to make my question more simple, I shall only mention one of the strong shoots. I
pruned this one down to five good promising buds. One of these buds, but not the top bad, was intended to make a long shoot this season, and the other four buds, each to produce one bunch of grapes, and to bs cut or stopped at different lengths before the bunches. The top bud, which was, and ought to be the strongest, I stopped at the third eye before the bunch ; number 2 was stopped two eyes before the bunch ; number 3 was stopped at ten eyes before the bunch ; and number 4 at fifty-two eyes before the bunch. The question was then submitted to a number of eminent practical horticulturalists, which of the buds ought to carry the heaviest bunch, the best coloured, and the soon- est ripe ? "
In answer to this, Mr. Beaton re- ceived numerous replies, and, as show- ing how men of equal experience may differ on a point, which at first sight seems resolvable by theory alone, the replies were of the most varied charac- ter, and "out of seventeen returns in writing, only one hit the mark; and out of five by word of mouth, one, a nurseryman who never forced a vine, decided the right way, and four, the contrary." The uncertainty existing
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THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
iu the minds of practical men on this j space, recommend me to number 1, point is, however, easily explained by | trained horizontally," In another the fact of the vast difference which communication, a very practical hand, exists between tbe best mode of treat- \ after describing how an old vine had ing the vine under glass and with j been renovated, by replacing tbe old heat, and that which applies to it when branches with young shoots from be- grown out of doors. In the one case I low, said, "I thinned the bunches close pruning and stimulating manures freely, allowed one bunch only to
bring about tbe same result as a com- paratively poor soil, and tbe entire absence of manure, and the adoption of long rods do on open walls, that is, the production of fruit, the ultimate ripening of which is more a matter of temperature than of feeding. English gardeners having a general, but un- justifiable contempt for out-door grapes, are not ready to perceive how different are the circumstances under which they are produced, and as close pruning is found essential in the forcing-house, the same rule is applied to the vine out of doors, and this application is the great error so strikingly evinced in the several ex- pressed opinions. But what was the fact as to the bunches ? Number 4 bunch weighed 1 lb 1 oz. ; this was the bunch on the fifty-two joint shoot ; numbers 1, 2, and 3, stopped at one, two, and three eyes beyond the bunch, weighed 40 oz. between them, or say lo^ oz. each. Mr. Beaton says, "I had five other main shoots of last year's growth in fruit under the experiment, and each of them turned out exactly like this one. The longest shoot of the five was thirty-five eyes long, and the bunch weighed 15 oz. full."
Among the communications sent to Mr. Beaton on the subject, the follow- ing has a special interest, as illustra- tive of the management of vines on open walls : —
" I have twenty examples, merging from four to thirty buds, stopped be- yond the fruit ; thirty examples, from one to ten buds stopped beyond the fruit, and upwards of forty examples, stopped at three buds beyond the bunch. The kinds are the Sweetwater and the Black Esperione. According to the best of my judgment, the ear- liest by a few days, and the best coloured, are those with thirty eyes
shoot, stopped a few at a few eyes, from the bunch, and the rest were not stopped till the end of August. Those shoots which were not cut back, pro- duced the best berries, and the best bunches decidedly." The sequence in- dicates itself. In the open air but few of those conditions are ensured to a vine which it can enjoy in a vinery. In the latter case an equable tempera- ture, entirely under control, so as to meet all its wants, a rich border and moisture both in tbe soil and the air, as may be requisite, are conditions very different to the full exposure to the seasons, and the absence of any special root stimulus — for too rich a soil only loads an out- door vine with more sap than it can elaborate — under which the former has to produce its fruit. In fact, the out-door vine has to feed largely from the air, and to take its own time and season to do so. and a certain amount of leaf surface is essen- tial to the elaboration of the secretions out of which the fruit is made. Here, then, are Mr. Beaton's conclusions; let every grower of out-door grapes give heed to the horticultural magician.
" When we grow on the long-rod system, which is the best of all out-of- doors, and is that which I practice, but is not the best under glass, we are safe if we stop the long shoot from the 10th to the 20th of August; but on the spur system out-of-doors, the spur ought to be stopped just when the vine is in and out of bloom, for it is at that moment that rivalry begins be- tween the berries and the extending shoots, and all that I gained by the last thirty-five joints above my largest bunch, was one ounce ; but the vine is much strengthened by the large sur- face of working leaves.
" To sum up in a few words, what I recommend is this : — Plant vines in
before them, and trained vertically ; j good sandy soil, such as would grow but for size of bunch, or for the quan- good cabbages, not more than twenty tity of fruit to be grown on a given | inches deep ; stop every shoot on the
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
35
15th of August, or not later than the 20th, nor earlier than the 10th till you come to fruit. The fourth year is time enough to crop, but prove your sorts by a bunch or two as soon as they offer. Stop all spurs on the spur sys- tem when the vine is in bloom, and not till then ; but choose the long rod if you can manage it, as being a much better system out of door?, and with the long rod you may stop before the bunches as they do hot-house grapes, at the first, second, third, or fourth joint before the bunch, according to
your room, and if you have more room do not stop till the vine is in bloom. Laterals do as much harm as they do good by shading the wall. I never allow a lateral leaf out of doors, but I only take oft' the leaf and the growing point after two joints are made. Late- rals are indispensable in forcing. Prune any day in October — the sooner the better. Tread your vine-border very hard, and rake it over, and keep it raked in summer to save the ground from cracking A coat of gravel would be better."
An Old Gardener.
HEATING BY GAS. I send you a sketch of an arrangement I have adopted for heating a green- house, and which answers to perfection. Some time ago I gained the hint from a gardening journal, and on putting it into practice, I found it advisable to make one or two alterations of importance. The apparatus consists of an iron boiler, a, through which passes a hot air funnel, g. The boiler is sup- plied by a small
is carried along under a shelf against the back wall, and then out of the house at the other end. On this shelf I have this season forced French beans, and struck cuttings, and it answers well. The only precau- tion necessary is to prevent an accumu- lation of air in the boiler or pipes, and every time the gas is lighted, the stop- cock at c should be opened to allow of its escape. The heat should at first be very slight, and may be in- creased as the cir- culation is estab- lished. A com- pulsory and fre- cp^ent absence from home led me to adopt this plan, having had many losses through not keeping my fire in regularly. Now I find that the house may be left any length of time without fear of' frost, and according to the thermometer and the state of the weather, we can increase or decrease the temperature to a nicety by means of the stopcock which regulates the supply of gas. — [A plan similar to the above was engraved in the Gar- dener's Chronicle about a year ago. — Ed. F. W.]
pipe from an open cistern in the house, entering the boiler at the bent arrow, The heat is de- rived from a small furnace formed of a circular hoop of iron with a bottom of wire gauze. The furnace is filled with lumps of pu- mice stone, and is supplied with a gas burner placed below the wire gauze, and the gas passes up through the pumice stone and is there lighted. There are two dis- tinct sources of heat, one by the flow pipe, c, which passes round the house and returns to the boiler at d, and the other by means of the hot air pipe, g, which
36
PLAN OF A TOWN GARDEN.
BY SHIRLEY HIBBEKD.
Imaginary plans for gardens are, gene- rally speaking, a waste of engraving and printing ; they are of little use to readers, and where they may chance to be useful to one, the may lead a dozen others quite astray. The fact is, every garden has its own peculiarities, and must be laid out in accordance with them ; and though an amateur may find some assistance to his invention in referring to plans designed by men of sound views and correct taste, he must not, therefore, abandon himself to them, but consider carefully how far the outlines that look so pretty on paper are applicable to the garden he wishes to improve, taking into account the nature of the soil, the flatness or diversity of its surface, and the several accessories of the surrounding scenery. Now, the designs here subjoined are not imaginary ones, intended to catch the eye, but actual reductions from the working plans of an amateur, who, in consideration of the health of his wife, has lately abandoned a garden in the country, and taken a villa at Stoke Newington, where the air suits her better than the marshy spot in which he, years ago, pitched his tent. Its general configuration is that of the stereotyped London garden — a long, narrow slip ; and as it combines many features of a desirable character, I have determined to represent its original condition, side by side with the altera- tions now being made in it, feeling assured that the plans of one who has had much experience in the produc- tion of gardening effects, will prove acceptable to many readers of the Floral World, especially, as, at this time of the year, alterations and im- provements demand a good deal of attention everywhere, and nowhere more than in the suburbs of large towns, where, for the most part, the gardens more or less resemble this, both in proportions and extent.
The situation of this garden is just \inder the shadow of the pretty old church at Stoke Newington, and the
look out is free and uninterrupted, right away across the meadows, to Muswell Hill, with the Lordship-road Reservoir, like a silvery mirror, in- tervening ; and the view is the pret- tiest and most open of any I know of so near to town.
The plan, No. 1, represents the garden, as it stood when the tenant took possession lately. Its actual con- dition then it is impossible to describe, for from one end to the other it was a perfect ruin. In length it lies south- cast and north-west, but, to simplify the plan, I have marked the four boundaries S. W. N. E. From the front wall, at S, to the rear fence, at N, the measurement is 280 feet. Its width varies from 35 to 38 feet. The superficial extent may be reckoned at about a quarter of an acre, and the plans are on a scale of 88 J feet to the inch, or thereabouts. Looking at plan No. 1, it will be seen that a large space on the north side of the house is laid out in turf, with a winding walk, and fruit trees. The front of the house is on this side, the entrance being at the back, on the south side from the gate, at S. Beginning, then, from this en- trance-gate, we have, as we enter, a picture of a wilderness in little. The walk up to the house, and on through the extent of the garden, is four feet six inches wide. From the entrance gate, as far as a, adjoining the hall door, it is edged with dwarf box, and the same round the lai'ge bed, as far as b, where there is a cistern, which the previous tenant constructed ; — it is of wood, sunk to the level of the ground, and is supplied direct from the main, with a ball-cock to regulate the flow. This cistern strikes the eye as an ob- ject it would be most desirable to get rid of, and as the box-edging is delapi- dated, and the borders, c, d, are glorious examples of confusion, the entree is lamentably dreary. To make it worse, the narrow space under the win- dow, e, is completely blocked up with delapidated lilacs, laurels, and aucubas,
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THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
all of huge size, very wild, very dingy, and nearly dead. The other side, (/, is filled up with a mixture of lilac, elderberry, lime, and evergreens, all mixed together, as if the}' had been originally thrown there, and had taken root as they fell, all in a lump. From a to f is a continuation of the border, with not a leaf to cover it, backed by the high wall of the stable next door. Then, going on to g, the garden sud- denly becomes pretty, even in its ruin, for at this point there are two or three picturesque apple trees, some tree- box, and mixed shrub. The fence, from this point, as far as /;, is covered with ivy, of many years' growth, and on the east side of the path, there are three old orchard trees, i, i, t, the first next the house being a New-town Pippin, the next a SwanVegg Pear, and the next a Golden Knob. Then at k, h, k, k, are four more apple trees, of fine growth. In plan, No. 1, the turf extends as far as the first pair of these trees, A, A, and behind them, next the fence, on each side, are a couple of magnificent aucubas. Now, as there is a good sprinkling of shrub along the borders, and a considerable space of turf, the view from the drawing-room windows, looking north along the ex- tent of the garden, is of a ver}' rustic character. It has fullness, for every- thing is old, and the apple trees are mostly twisted and bent a bit ; and as there is no interruption to the view, and the neighbouring gardens abound with fine, deciduous trees, the scene is as truly " countrified " as one can expect anywhere within a sixpenny ride of the Bank.
The good and bad conditions are pretty equally balanced. Good turf, good fruit trees, deep rich loam, and a very pure air, in which roses thrive. On the other hand, a clay sub-soil, the lower prrt, at n, completely water- logged, and the gnarled, Hawthorn- den apple tree, at ??i, going to ruin, through having got its roots into the water, and everything, from one end to the other, showing evidences of many years' neglect.
Now, a garden ought to be beauti- ful every day in the year, and in lay- ing out or improving a piece of ground,
its appearance, every future winter and spring, must be thought of, and hence you cannot get far without plenty of evergreens and bulbs. Then, to make a blaze from May to October, you want room for bedding plants ; to keep your borders gay, you want a reserve plot, and a space for a few frames, and a cold pit ; and to complete the com- missariat, and ensure stock, a green- house must be added. After this, you can enlarge your plans as you please ; a stove, an orchard-house, a forcing- pit, a conservatory, and other such things, are very delightful, if you have room for them, and if your heart is in your work, you will .manage to have them, even if they are piled one on the other, or economically blended into one. But here we are dealing with a little garden on the skirts of the town, and for one of the dimensions here figured, we want to stock the ground with as much as it will hold ; Ave want variety, and, as far as possible, we must preserve consistency and harmony of arrangement.
Now, the object sought in re- arranging this garden, was to make the most of all its good points, and to introduce a few pleasing features, at the least possible sacrifice of the fruit trees and other established character- istics of the ground. Everything about the ground is old and picturesque, therefore, high style is here out of the question, and the only place for any- thing of an artistic character is the little fore-court, measuring some five- and- thirty feet square; and as the house on this S. side is stuccoed, and the steps down from the hall as im- posing as it is possible for them to be in a small villa, it was determined here to make a pretty arrangement of shrubs, masonry, and flowers. For the present we will deal only with the gar- den proper, and, referring to the plans, let me say, that No. 1 shows its origi- nal condition, No. 2 its altered state, and No. 3 is a key to both. The first thing done, was to trench up the piece n, which had been used as kitchen gar- den, and had never had a spade in it more than eight inches deep. A trench was then cut along it, next the path, right way to the ditch, o, and a row
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
39
of two-inch pipes laid down, to drain it into the ditch, which was widened and deepened to improve the fall. An open water-course was then cut along the fence, from /, to the ditch, o, and the piece, n, was planted with three rows of hush fruits ; raspberries next the trench, /, then a row of black currants, and in front of these, nearest the walk, a row of gooseberries. A May Duke and an Elton cherry were added in a line with the two apple trees; they were planted on hard plat- forms, and the holes filled in with loain and turf.
The other side of the walk, where there is a pair of apple trees, was already stocked with old red currants, very much grown together. These were merely thinned and pruned, but next year they will be grubbed up, and the piece replanted. The next thing was to lay out a piece for roses, which thrive everywhere about Stoke New- ington ; the turf was removed from the two sides of the bed, marked 2?,
the house, the trees were found to be fit only for fire-wood, and, excepting one nice Blenheim, down they came, for the admission of sunlight from the south-west side. The turf will not be disturbed further, except for half-a- dozen pincushion beds for standard roses and bedding plants, and the three fanciful beds on plan 1, will be turfed over and extinguished, for though these do not look amiss on paper, they have a most ungainly and cockney sort of appearance at present, and so their days are numbered. In spring, the border, a, f, g, will be planted with the best evergreens, in groups, and with a selection of showy, herbaceous peren- nials.
Now, from the front windows, look- ing north, the view consists of a low, ivied fence to the left, above which tower some fine acacias, elms, and maples in the adjoining gardens, so that until you have really examined the details, the garden that way seems of boundless extent, for the eye readily
the ground trenched and manured, the I scales the green fence, and rests on the
central bed enlarged, and a couple of Chinas, with immense heads, that stood originally at q q, and which had long been out of the perpendicular, were taken up, pruned head and foot, and cleared of suckers, and planted at s s, and their places sup- plied with a pair of standard Duchess of Sutherland's. Some climbing roses were then planted on each border, at t ; and in the spring these will be trained over an arch, across the path. The central bed is planted with dwarf hybrid perpetuals, with a standard white rose in the centre. The border round each way, from s to q, is also planted with roses in three rows, as to heights, with standards and tall growing dwarfs towards the fence, where spaces are left for some holly- hocks to tower up above them on each side. At p p, a pair of pillar roses completes this part of the plan. From the windows and along the path, the view will in future be very gay, and with the large evergreens at I I, the arch at t, and the pair of standard Chinas at s s, will be pretty well shut in, as a scene distinct in itself. On the west side, between the rosary and
intermixture of branches beyond it. Then, in front, there is a winding path, quite of a piece with the turf and the old trees ; and looking forward, there is just enough of picturesque confu- sion, and yet a clear view for at least two-thirds of the entire length — in fact, as far as the bee-house, u. In that direc- tion, the garden blends itself with the meadows beyond, the rear fence be- ing old privet, and not a stick of wood- work or paling visible. On the right hand, E, the boundary, is another hedge of mixed privet, elm, lime, etc., with a fine fir tree breaking the straight line at z, so that though closely bounded, the boundaries are green and every way the picture is agree- able.
Now, the way to spoil this garden would be, to adopt precise forms, and introduce a few bits of very white statuary. Everything about it is rus- tic, and the bee-house, at u, is of rustic wood-work, with a thatched roof, so that rustic baskets will come in very fitly to stand about on the turf. To make the border, v, next the house, as gay as possible, without verbenas and geraniums, the old aucubas, that
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THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
blocked up the windows, have been moved, and the border planted with roses, rhododendrons, and fuchsias, and herbaceous perennials, such as delphiniums, phloxes, aquilegias, etc. The large bed, .t, which measures fourteen feet across, will remain as it is for the present, and in May it will be planted with fuchsias. My own opinion of it is, that it is too large ever to look proportionate; but we shall see. At g, there -will be a rockery, with abronias and showy trailers ; at y, another, with ferns and alpines ; at a, under the shadow of a fine lime tree, which stands like a sentry beside the doorway, there will be another, not visible from the gate entrance, and, therefore, between g and a, the wall, at present bare, is to be covered with ivy, Virginian creeper, and Stauntonia latifolia, the latter in- tended to run to the top in no time. The border will be planted with deci- duous trees and evergreens ; the trees at /, to be cut down and grubbed up, and their places supplied with birch, holly, and rhododendrons, with the choicest perennials in front.
Across the path, at the corner, /, it is intended to carry a wire arch, to be covered with Aristolocliia si'pho, one of the most lovely of deciduous climbers. The wide border, d, will be wholly replanted before this month is out, the back ground with deci- duous trees, to hide the wall and all beyond it; and the front, next the path, with a selection of showy ever- greens, with a breadth of two feet, for specimen geraniums and fuchsias. The space, c, now green and sour, and sprinkled with half perished roses and snowberries, will be left till April, then all the rubbish that blocks up the window, and the dark corner over the cistern, will be rooted up and burnt, the soil removed, and concrete laid down to form a large space of gravel for a jardinet, and a set of flower boxes. The box-edging will be moved to edge the path from the rosary to the ditch, and its place supplied along the whole line, bounding rf, and the new line, bounding b, with edging tiles. The border, b, is for the choicest floweriDg 6hrubs, or for very fine
specimen geraniums, though there is room but for a few. The wall here is well ivied, and the gate guarded by a pair of horse chestnuts.
This forecourt is, however, so distinct a thing in itself, that I shall wait till it is planted, and then describe it with the help of a figure. I believe it will prove a model worthy of attention by every possessor of a town plot ; but we had better wait a bit and see. A few other points require mention, and we may leave our friend to pursue his agreeable task. At the corner, between the drawing-room and the hall, there is a space of gravel and bare walls ; here a greenhouse is to be erected, and as the space measures only 7 feet by 7, the house will be carried forward two or three feet more towards the grass- plot. At the lower end the ditch, o, and the water-courseshave been put into regular order, and a cistern constructed at the bend of the path near the bottom, to receive the drainage from the underground pipes. This is to save the trouble of carrying water from the cistern in the forecourt for wateringthe roses in summertime. Erom the cistern to the trench at m, a narrow path is formed of coal-ashes on a bottom of rubbish, and here a three-light pit will be built to face the north, with another narrow path of ashes in front, and then a row of American Cranberries in a trench parallel with the ditch, to turn to good account the wettest part of the garden. The situation of the pit is not a happy one, on account of the exces- sive dampness of the spot, but my friend says he'll have it as dry as a bone before next winter ; and the chief of the water will be carried down to the extreme N.E. corner. On both sides of the garden, at this lower part, there is a space of bare fence. On the east side a narrow border will be formed on a raised platform of lime rubbish, and a rustic shed, built partly for ornament, and partly as a pot- ting and tool house. On the other side at ?i, the fence is to be covered with morello cherries, and in the bor- der in front of them a good place will be found for herbaceous plants that love shade, and between it and the narrow path, a bed of ashes for
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
41
plunging plants in pots. Many would | would be a good way of turning the rail off the whole of this lower piece, water to account, for there are no and build a duckhouse at n, and that I means of getting rid of it entirely.
TYSO ON THE RANUNCULUS.
It is impossible ever to think of either the Eanunculus or the Anemone, with- out, at the same time, connecting them with Mr. Tyso of Wallingford, Berks, who has long been the leading grower of these lovely flowers, and to whom Ave are indebted for many of the splen- did seedlings which of late years have brought these flowers to such a high perfection. Many years ago, Mr. Tyso published a little pamphlet on the cul- tivation of his favourite flower, and this having been long out of print, is now reproduced by him with such additions and improvements as his ripe experience suggested. It is published by the author, and may be had direct from him for seven postage stamps.* For the benefit of such of our readers as ma}7 be about to plant this month, we subjoin the following instructions, premising that the soil for the Ranun- culus should be a rich hazelly loam.
PREPARATION OF THE BEDS.
Having chosen an open, but not exposed, part of the garden, -which will admit of the beds being laid down about east and west, remove the earth fifteen inches deep, and from three feet to three feet four inches wide, and fill the bed with the prepared compost, to within two inches of the surface ; leave it thus for a month, and then add the reserved top soil. These operations are best done in autumn, that time may be allowed for the earth to settle. Another method, where the sub-soil is light and very porous, may be adopted. Excavate the bed fifteen inches deep, lay in the bottom three inches of min- gled manure and loam, and then saturate it with manure water. Cow-dung, well-stirred in water, will answer the purpose. Next add three inches more of compost, and satu- rate that layer ; proceed to add two more similar layers, making a foot deep in the whole, and, after a week's settling, add three inches of good healthy pulverized loam, with but little manure, in which to plant the tubers.
The surface of the beds should be level, and not more than an inch higher than the
paths, in order that the root3 may be kept regularly cool and moist ; and, as the ranun- culus thrives on a firm bottom, the compost should not be disturbed at the time of plant- ing, more than is just needful for that opera- tion. During winter the surface may be pointed up rough, to take the benefit of frosts, but in no case should this be done more than two inches deep. The beds may be neatly edged with inch boards painted lead colour, and in case named sorts are planted, should be numbered with white paint to correspond with the numbers en- tered in the Amateur's list. As a bed well constructed at the commencement will admit of several successive plantings, with an an- nual addition of fertilizing materials, it is worthy of the particular care of the culti- vator, though the preparation at first may involve some little trouble and expense.
PLANTING.
The best season for general planting is the last fortnight in February — the plants have not then to contend with the severities of the winter. In some favourable seasons roots may be planted with advantage in October; they will have more time to vegetate, and establish themselves; will make stronger plants, and will bloom more vigorously, and about a fortnight earlier than if planted in spring. Considerable hazard, however, at- tends autumn planting, and it is not recom- mended, except by way of experiment, to those who possess a large stock, and can afford to risk a portion.
In fine weather, towards the close of February, rake your beds perfectly level, and divide them into six longitudinal rows for mixed roots, allowing four inches from the outside row to the edge ; or for named sorts, mark your rows transversely at dis- tances of five inches asunder, and plant six roots in a transverse row.
Draw drills with a small hoe one inch and a half deep, and plant the roots with the claws downwards, with pressure to secure firmly in the soil, so as to be one inch and a half from the crowns to the surface.
When planting on a small scale, a dibble with a shoulder at the precise depth may be used ; but in large quantities it is an incon- venient method, and planting at the bottom
" The Banunculus : how to grow it, Ac." By Carey Tyso, Florist, &c, Wallingford, Berks.
42
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
of a drill with moderate pressure, and with- out disturbing the subsoil, is attended with similar advantage to the use of a dibble, and in practice will be found to have some points of preference. If the top soil is light
after planting, it may be gently beaten with the back of the spade; this operation, how- ever, must be only done in dry weather, and may be repeated just before the plants come up.
>c«xxx>*coo<xx;-cos<p<x>c>oooo<
PROFITABLE GARDENING.
CHAPTER II. EDGINGS AND PERMANENT PLANTING.
Now the garden will be in skeleton. The next thing is to determine on the edging, for without some kind of edging a kitchen garden has an untidy look, and I hold it incumbent on the diligent gardener to preserve neatness and order, as one of the elements of success. The eye is not to be annoyed because the garden is devoted to mere eatables. Strawberries are often recommended as a fit edging for a kitchen garden. Many would like a border of flowers and box edgings, and a very pretty arrange- ment this is. Daisies, hepaticas, parsley, and even lettuces are used as edgings, just to mark the line occasionally; but to give a neat finish, and preserve a clean line on each side of the walk, there is nothing like stone or tile. In some districts the mere carting and putting down, is the whole expense that attends the use of stone, but in the neigebourhood of London every kind of stone-work is expensive, but a tile that will last for ever, and look as well as stone, may be had at one-third less the price of dwarf-box, and that is the one invented by Mr. Hogg, and sold under patent by Mr. Blackett, of Witham, Essex. I have put down a quantity of these lately, and, from their clean appearance, durability, and the firm support they give the walk, even when the spade comes near them, I should like to see them very exten- sively used. They cost 4^d. a yard ouly, and serve to drain the path and border, as well as forming a strong edging that will last for ever. Any amateur, or unskilled labourer can lay them down, and that is an additional item in their favour. I lately put
down two hundred before dinner, on a broiling hot day, and in a curved path, where the gravel had been rolled as hard as flint, so if a thousand or two are wanted, no one need fear the task of placing them.* The annexed cut shows, a mode of using bricks as an edging ; it is cheap and eifective.
In the planting of such a garden as we are considering, the stock will naturally assort itself into two great divisions ; namely, those that are to occupy the ground permanently, and those that shift and change, appearand disappear, according to the seasons. Among the first, fruits have the first importance, and unless there is a good open space, in which justice may be done to all things, it is better not to grow fruits at all. But to have a little of everything should be the motto ; and a very good plan of growing fruits in such a garden, is, to have plenty of bush fruits, and espalier apples, pears, plums, and cherries, borderiug the in- ner plot, next the walk all round. The walls offer sites for fruits of higher class — peach, apricot, grape, and cherry —and by having none but trained trees, except, perhaps, an occasional standard, in a good spot, to diversify the scene, very heavy crops may be taken, with- out shading the ground at all ; indeed, such shade as espaliers produce, will be found very useful for many crops that need shelter from the full blaze of the sun in summer. Have a lot of
* The manufacture of these tiles has been discontinued. Any plasterer would mould au edging of Portland cement to any pattern. Messrs. Bazley, White and Co., of Mill- bank, exhibited a neatly-moulded tile at Chiswiek, last June, the object being to show the applicability of Portland cement for such a purpose. The tile exhibited was, we believe, moulded by Mr. G. Spurway, Tufton, Westminster, who would supply them in quantity, at 6d. per foot run. — Ei>.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
43
huge orchard trees, and at once give up all idea of crops beneath them. The digging and dressing of the ground will ruin the trees, and the trees will u draw " everything beneath them; but set out your espaliers, and every tree is reduced to a flat surface, easily managed, creating little shadow, and occupying the smallest possible amount of room. These trees ought to be two feet from the edging, and twenty feet apart, and between every two trees there will be room for three gooseberry, cur- rant, or raspberry bushes, but these ought to be set back one foot farther from the walk, on account of their spreading nature. But unless the cir- cumstances are very favourable, it is better to have bush fruits only, for they thrive on any soil, are easily managed, and are the most serviceable of any for family purposes. Where there is a central or divisional walk in a kitchen garden, espalier trees and bush fruits may be planted on each side. Apple and pear are always the best for such a mode of culture, because they can be trained in any way, but stone fruits are difficult to manage so, on ac- count of the abundance of young wood they produce if the knife is used to them at all freely. A central walk arched over with rough open timber lattice, and a row of apple or pear trees planted on each side, and trained over, is a very pretty ornament to a profitable garden, and one that pays well in its produce, because the fruit is well exposed, easily managed, and it wants but little skill to build " the bower " in the first instance. It should be high enough for a tall man to pass along with his hat on, and some good eating apples should be found in some part of it for the enjoyment of visitors.
The other kinds of permanent stock are such things as strawberries, rhu- barb, seakale, asparagus, &c. ; all these Miould be in one quarter, properly divided from each other, and should have a good aspect ; indeed, asparagus ought to have the best bit of ground you have, for it is a most valuable thing, and if not wanted for your own table, will, if well grown, find a ready market at a paying price. I have already remarked that I am quite
mindful of the various circumstances under which gardening ma}' be pursued by the readers of this work ; — climate, soil, situation, the shape, extent, and otherwise of the ground, may render it impossible to adopt the scheme I propose in every case, for every gar- den must be considered on its own merits ; still, in every alteration, it is well to know what is the best end to aim at, what is the most advantageous way of gaining space, and making the best of ever}' square inch of surface ; and, as most people find their gardens ready made for them in some measure, it is only to a certain extent that they can avail themselves of the suggestions here offered. But there are few places but are capable of improvement, and I have laid down a plan which may be safely followed under the greatest variety of circumstances, either in im- proving an old garden, or laying out a new one. In an allotment plot, a regular plan is quite out of the ques- tion, but a systematic mode of crop- ping is very necessary, and to that we shall come presently.
But we will not pass from this men- tion of old gardens, without just a word or two. The best time to " move," as regards gardening, is at Michaelmas, because then you have the whole season before you for every kind of tree and shrub planting, and for alter- ations of all kinds. At this time, too, you can look over the ground, and ascertain exactly what it contains, for herbaceous things will not have quite died down, and most of the trees being in foliage — some, indeed, in fruit — will indicate their respective characters and values. Determine, as soon as you can, how much of the stock deserves to be preserved, and how much is to be destroyed, but be not in haste to annihilate anything. If the bushes are old and straggling, take up the worst and trim them to one good stem, and replant in order ; prune soon after the fall of the leaf, whatever may require it, and set in clean order any patches of strawberry, seakale, asparagus, rhubarb, &c, that may prove useful the next season, and as soon as the pro- per time arrives, secure new stock of such things as seem to be worn out ;
44
THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
take good cutting9 from the bush fruits, set out new rows of asparagus and seakale, and do not get rid of any ex- cept the evidently worthless stuff, until you have new to take its place. Re- member the laundresses' motto, about " throwing away dirty water." The next thing to look to, is the drainage and walks, and the winter storms will soon enable you to judge if the ground needs help to get rid of superfluous water. Where the soil remains damp, and sour, and soddened after rain, no good can be effected in any kind of gardening. Then, as to the walks, see that they are conveniently disposed, and if you mean to alter them, do it at once ; put down a good rough bottom, and wait till spring before you give them a final coat of gravel, for there will be much heavy wheeling, and this will settle the new foundation ; but if they are gravelled at once, the barrow will cut them to pieces speedily. But the working soil should be the subject of chief attention. Ten to one, it has never been dug more than one spit deep ; the top may have been well ma- nured or cropped to death, but it is almost certain that as to digging, it has merely been played with. Here, then,
is a field for your energies; use the pick, the fork, the spade in earnest; ridge up every bit of it that is not occupied ; be careful not to go too near the roots of trees, but make up your mind that daylight and fresh air shall make acquaintance with that hard, impervious stuff that lies just ten or twelve inches below the surface.
It seems almost idle to say anything as to the proportions of ground to be allotted to various kinds of crops, be- cause the wants of families and the tastes of individuals differ so much. As a general rule, however, where there is ample space for growing every thing, one half will not be too much to assign to permanent standing crops of all kinds. Say one-sixth for fruits generally, another sixth for raspberries, and another for strawberries ; another sixth for seakale, rhubarb, artichokes, and asparagus, — the latter deserving quite a twelfth of the whole ground, on account of its high value, whether for home consumption or market. The other half is for routine cropping, as potatoes, cabbage, turnips, and the various other things that come in re- gular rotation, the culture of which will be described in future chapters.
FEBRUARY WORK IN THE GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE.
We have had some beneficial frosts, and those who "took time by the fore- lock," and got their shrubs planted before Christmas, have the advantage of the two months' rooting they have made since ; for newly- planted trees and shrubs work vigorously under- ground, however hard it may be freez- ing on the surface, and, if well mulched, produce immense masses of fibres be- fore spring. There is still time, how- ever, in the intervals between frosts and rains, to complete planting, and alterations. Finish fruits and roses before you move a single evergreen; and, in filling in the holes, take care not to throw in any frozen soil or snow, which would do great injury to the roots, and, for a long time, keep the trees back. Indeed, if the soil used contains a little fibrous matter, not quite decayed, the stirring will
cause a slight fermentation, the warmth of which will promote a vigorous root- action. Plant firmly. Put stakes to such things as are likely to be shaken by March winds, and, in all cases, plant not quite so deep as before — certainly, not an inch deeper. Go over orchard trees, prune where neces- sary, and scrub, with a brush dipped in strong brine, any that were effected with American blight last year. During open weather, edgings of all sorts may now be made, both live and dead ; new beds maybe prepared, and the borders forked, to sweeten the soil, before new perennials are planted. During frosty weather, wheel out manure on kitchen plots and allotments, char rubbish, get in clinkers, or flints, for rockwork, and complete any other jobs that necessi- tate wheeling, as the barrow does less harm when the ground is frozen.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
45
Look over the stock of seeds, and de- termine what will be required for this season's sowing, and, in good time, fix upon the style and method of bedding- out you will pursue, so as to raise stock for the purpose, for the season of propagating is now at hand, and, for the next two or three months, the chief work of the whole ensuing season will have to be got through.
Kitchen Garden. — Sow the main crops of peas and beans at the first favourable opportunity ; a few of the earliest sorts, on well-drained slopes, facing the south, to come on quick ; or, if a small successional supply is required, get in a few rows of the earliest sorts of each, and sow again as soon as the first come up, and so on, to the end of March. Sow spinach be- tween the rows of peas. A little of everything in the edible way may be got in now in good positions — small sowings of Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Turnips, Parsley, Radishes, and Lettuce, but the main sowings of most things should be deferred. Get one pan of celery forward in heat, and some lettuces for planting out. Where ground in good heart was ridged up over win- ter for potatoes, the whole may be planted now. Trench them in, in preference to using the dibber ; but if the weather should be wet, or the ground frozen, get in a few early sorts only, and also some early kidneys in frames, for the first supply. Prepare, by trenching and manuring, the plots intended for seakale and asparagus next month. Turn out potted cauli- flower-plants on well-manured stations, four plants under each hand-light, choosing a very sheltered position. Edgings and plantations of strawberries may now be made, and old beds must be dressed. Prune and tie raspberries, leaving but three or four shortened canes to each stool. Heap half-rotten dung over the old stools of rhubarb, to promote early production.
Flower Garden. — The old direc- tions for sowing hardy annuals and pe- rennials in February, do not altogether suit our seasons of late, and it is seldom advisable to sow any before March, ex- cept in frames and hot-beds; but, with artificial heat, sowings of most
things may now be made, both for blooming in pots in the greenhouse and conservatory, and for turning out into beds and borders. Do not forget Phlox Drummondii, Delphinium for- mosum, cinerarias, Chinese primroses, stocks, asters, auriculas, and balsams, for all of which a moderate heat is sufficient. Most perennials, and even Chrysanthemums and Dahlias, sown now, and hardened off as soon as pricked out, will flower the present sea- son. Top-dress auriculas, polyanthuses, and pinks, if not done last month, and make up dung-beds for propagating, as the demand for bedding stock is frequently greater than the room de- voted to wintering them can supply. Soft-wooded and free-growing plants maybe multiplied rapidly with the help of a frame. Fill up to within twelve inches of the glass with dung that has been previously turned, to remove its rankness, and upon it spread four inches of dry sandy soil, and put in the cuttings as fast as the plants supply them.
Greenhouse. — The stock here will now be starting into spring growth, and though air must be given as much as possible, cold draughts and frbsts must be guarded against, as, during this month, most greenhouse plants are more susceptible of cold than at any other period of the year. Shift such things as require it; see to the drainage of plants well established; give water pretty freely to such as are making free growth ; azaleas and camellias must have plenty. Camellias done blooming should be put into a temperature averaging 65 degrees, with a moist atmosphere, and partial shade, by means of tiffany, or canvas, over the glass, to promote the growth of new wood. Epacrises, correas, les- chenaultias, polygalas, &c, should have a little extra warmth, and be brought into free growth for flowering; the latter like a little old mortar mixed with the peat in potting them. Houses devoted to collections of plants should now be carefully looked over, as some things may be doing badly, owing to too low a temperature, while others may require it to be reduced. A free increase of fire-heat for a few hours at
4f>
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
mid-day, sinking to the old point at night, is sometimes advisable, to keep mixed collections healthy ; and in the arrangement of the stock, orchids and New Holland plants, and exotic bulbs, should be placed at the warmest end ; pelargoniums, calceolarias, and cine- rarias, intermediate ; and ericas at the coolest, with a free circulation of air. Put Deutzla scabia, Weigelea rosea, and Forsythia viridissima, into mode- rate heat to bloom well, and they will make a beautiful display for some time to come. Look out sharp for green fly and red spider, and fumigate with sulphur and tobacco, as may be necessary. Average tempera- ture this month : — 45 degs. at night ; 50 to 55 degs- by day, with a rise of 5 degs. more with sun-heat.
Stove. — Pines should be kept at a
moderate bottom-heat, or many may fruit prematurely ; from 85 to 90 degs. will be quite sufficient; anything be- yond 90 is a positive injury to them. In houses where vines are in leaf, air must be given at every opportunity, but with great caution. Beware of un- due heat at night ; it is better to let the temperature sink a few degrees on sharp nights, than to drive the vines on in an unhealthy air, which is a fre- quent cause of failure in setting and ripening. Keep evaporating pans at work Avhere syringing would be inad- visable, to keep down spider.
In the Forcing Pit keep the ther- mometer at 80 degs. for bottom-heat, and on sunny days increase the atmo- spheric heat to the same point for an hour or two, to give an opportunity for syringing.
GIDNEY'S GARDEN TOOLS.
The many improvements effected of late years in the implements used in gardening and agricutlure, mark, very definitely, the nature of the progress made ; for, while there is a tendency to the diminishing of labour, by the introduction of machinery and tools •which give full effect to the power employed, there is also a more perfect end attained by them, as witness the deep digging, which has resulted from the use of digging-forks. Mowing machines are fast abolishing the slow ■work of the scythe ; while, for those who still depend upon it, we have the self-adjusting scythes of Boyd and Anthony, which may readily be set to any angle, while the poor man's scythe proves itself a welcome friend to the cottager, and the amateur of the most humble means. For the general routine of gardening woi-k, the im- proved tools manufactured by Messrs. Gidney, of East Dereham, Norfolk, commend themselves to the entire gardening world, for their simplicity and efficiency. They are not mere devia- tions from old-fashioned models, but real helps to the diligent hand, con- structed with an intelligent view to the nature of the work to be per- formed by them. Gidney's Improved Prussian Hoes not only cut and destroy
the weeds, but leave the ground per- fectly level, without the use of the rake. In the Horizontal Hoe, the blade is set at the same angle, and cuts up the weeds, without destroying the evenness of the ground. The Norfolk Hoe is fastened to the handle by a strong ferrule, so made that it is impossible for it to become loose. The Improved Garden Bakes are peculiarly adapted for ladies' use, being lighter, and j'et stronger, than the common rake.
Gidneys Self- Acting Fmntyatur
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
17
entirely obviates the unpleasantness of contact with the smoke, as it merely requires lighting, and it performs the operation, delivering the smoke in a dense body, without further attention ; a result which no other fumigator at- tains, without constant blowing.
These implements are sold at the prices ordinarily charged for the old- fashioned ones in common use, and may be had direct from the makers ; or of Messrs. Burgess and Key ; or Messrs. Dray and Co., London.
STRAWBERRY PLANTS AS EDGINGS.
Hautbois, and particularly the Red and White Alpines, are very suitable for edgings to alleys, and even to the principal walks in the fruit and kitchen gardens. They combine beauty and utility in no ordinary degree. Such edgings need no more attention than those of box, and they certainly make a better return. I have also used the stronger growing kinds with advantage. They may be planted from four to eight inches apart, and well manured. An objection may be urged, on the ground that such edgings do not keep the soil from the walks ; but the bor-
ders need^not be higher than the walks ; and box, and other edgings, are liable to the same objections. I have tried them for many situations, and am satisfied of their efficiency, profit, and general adaptation. In autumn, I have made use of Alpine strawberries in fruit, to aid in giving character to the flower-glasses, vases, &c, when flowers were scanty. Groups of artificial fruits, as well as flowers, are not void of charms, when appropriately situated, and arranged. — McEioen on Straw- berry Culture.
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
To Dkv Flowers. — N. K. — The easiest to begin with, are yellow flowers, as ttiey retain the co- lour best. Spread them as Hat as possible, and without altering their natural tonus, on clean dry blotting-paper. Cover them with three or four thicknesses of the same, and apply a very slight weight to flatten them gradually without rupture of the vessels. After five or six hours, take other sheets of now blotting-paper and warm them at the (ire, and while they are warm chanse the flowers into them ; apply more pres- sure than before. Let them remain till the next day, and change again in the same way, and you ■will have them perfectly dried and the colours beautifully preserved. Blue are more difficult. Proceed in the same way, and at the first change cover the blotting-paper with two thichnesses of flannel, and apply a moderately hot iron to hasten the drying process. We have dried all sorts of flowers with a tenth part of the trouble, by merely placing them between blotting-paper in a book, and piling a few other books on it, but only those of thin texture and that do notjjbound in sap, can be treated in so slight a way. In all cases, dry quick ; never crush the stems or cause the juices to exude, and avoid laying one leaf on another, which causes discoloration. Detailed instructions, including directions for drying fungi, without destroying their shape, may be found in "Brambles and Bay Leaves," published ,by Longmans.
Stkiking Ivv.— R. G. — Ivy should not be struck where it is to remain. It is better to strike it in very sandy loam, and transplant when well rooted. It will strike all the summer, but most readily in spring. Leave your ivy alone for a month or six weeks at least for the present.
Phloxes. — R. Burnley.— Tike Abbe Boy, Amatis- sima, Annie Salter, Countess of Home, Einilio Mehl, May Queen, Mdlle. Ermine Lauible, Muta, Princess de Wagram, Socrates, Virgo, and Louis BJcarde, and you will have a splendid dozen, none of them too tall for your purpose. Canci- dissima nova and umbellata arc. beauties for bedding, very early and dwarf. We do not re- commend dealers.
Annuals.— Bob.— In our opinion nothing is gained by sowing annuals out of doors in February. Wait another month, and wo will gis'e you some hints. You may sow now in a Waltonian Case, or dung pit, any annuals intended for bedding out. We have not yet seen a bed of Veronica syriaca, which was let out by Hendersons, last year. Wc should not hesitate to try it in the position you mention.
Eugenia Ugni. — A. L. P. — This is a myrtle, and must be treated as such. Good rich loam suits it, plenty of pot room, and exposure to sun and rain, from April to October. When grown under glass, it blossoms in Spring, and ripens its fruit early in Autnmu. The chief difficulty is to get the fruit of a good colour — those exhibited at Willis's Booms last October, were generally poor as to colour. The flavour is delicious. All the myrtles produce edible fruits.
Pomegranates in Pots. — Buxin. — You give too much water, and get too much young wood. Bring your plants into growth in April ; in May, turn them out on a south border, water regularly till August, and then let the sun burn them as long as it has power to do so, giving only just enough water to keep them alive, and you will not complain of [shyness in bloomiug the next season.
48
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE
Evergreens for a Balcont. — Henry.— Six hardy and good Laurus nobilis, Viburnum , tin us, Cotoneaster mycrophylla, Buxus sempervirens, Andromeda floribunda, Gaultheria shallon; to these may be added Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Kalmias in pairs. Daphne odora and cneorum, Ceanothus azureus, and Desfontania spinosa, are lovely dwarf evergreens, that need a little protection in winter, though, in the climate of London, we have had them winter out of doors safely along with old myrtles.
P. F.— Leyland.— Can't do it at the price. — H. G. — Bristol. — Yes, write, direct to Messrs. Groom- bridge. — Gas Heating.— F. J. L. — Thanks. Our readers shall profit by your kind communication. — Setting Vines. —Amateur. — Your queries are so vague, we find it impossible to answer them. What heat can you command ? How were the vines treated last year, and when do you break them ? We cannot give particular answers to general queries, though willing to oblige when- ever we know, definitely, what is required of us.
Waltohian Case. — This is a small frame heated with an oil lamp and [boiler, and of dimensions to suit any ordinary room or green- house. It serves all the purposes of a hot-bed for raising seeds, or striking cuttings, and is the best contrivance for propagating an amateur can use. It was figured and described in "Rustic Adornments." We believe Mr. Hib- berd's figures are the only accurate ones that have been published of the invention as it is now used. You may raise in such a case whatever seeds or cuttings require a heat of from 60 to'90 degs. ; the only precaution necessary is to keep the sand always damp. Of course plants cannot be grown on in such a contrivance, which is merely a pro- pagating pit on a small scale, heated by a lamp, instead of pipes or dung.
Variegated Plants.— S. S. G. — We understand that Mr. Lowe intends shortly to bring out a work on the subject, with coloured figures. It will be published by subscription, at a low figure.
METEOROLOGICAL CALENDAR FOR FEBRUARY.
|
28 DATS. |
WEATHER NEAR LONDON, FEB. 1857. |
28 |
WEATHER NEAR LONDON, FEB. 1857. |
||||||||
|
BAROMETER. |
THERMOM. |
WIND. |
RAIN. |
DATS. |
BAROMETER. |
THERMOM. WIND. |
RAIN. |
||||
|
MAX. MIN. |
MX. MN. MN. |
1 |
MAX. MIN. |
MX. MN. MN. |
|||||||
|
M. |
1 |
29.906—29.853 |
35 14 24.5 |
aw |
.00 ' |
M. |
15 |
30.112—30.066 |
48 26 37.0 |
E |
.00 |
|
Tu |
f. |
29.601—29.512 |
38 24 31.0 |
sw |
.00' |
Tu. |
16 |
30.073-30.049 |
55 26 40.5 |
S |
.00 |
|
W. |
3 |
29.964—29.611 I 35 24 29.5 |
sw |
.00 1 |
w. |
17 |
29.992—29.966 |
56 34 45 0 |
s |
.01 |
|
|
Th |
4 |
30.245—30.106 34 13 23.5 |
E |
.00 ! |
Th. |
IS |
29.999—29.964 |
55 33 34.0 |
sw |
.00 |
|
|
F. |
5 |
30.146—29.934 |
42 36 39.0 |
SW |
.14 1 |
F. |
19 |
30.145-30.093 |
48 30 39.0 |
sw |
.01 |
|
8. |
fi |
29.875—29.836 |
49 33 41.0 |
SW |
.01 |
S. |
20 |
30.180—30.129 52 30 41.0 |
sw |
.01 |
|
|
S |
7 |
29.783—29696 |
45 32 38.5 |
sw |
.00 |
s. |
21 |
30.278-30.227 |
55 33 43.0 |
sw |
.00 |
|
M. |
8 |
29.651—29.637 |
38 36 37.0 |
sw |
.02 |
M. |
22 |
30.255-30.230 |
55 25 40.0 SW |
.00 |
|
|
Tu |
9 |
29.591—29.475 |
46 35 40.5 |
s |
.06 |
Tu |
23 |
30.264-30.230 |
52 24 38.0 |
sw |
•03 |
|
W. |
Ill |
29.753-29.643 |
51 83 42.0 |
sw |
.01 |
W. |
24 |
30.154-30.039 |
53 22 37.5 |
sw |
.00 |
|
Th |
11 |
30.009-29.821 |
52 27 39.5 |
sw |
.03 |
Th |
25 |
30.280-30.128 |
42 22 32.0 |
sw |
.03 |
|
F. |
12 |
30.348—30.262 |
50 23 36.5 |
w |
.00 |
F. |
26 |
30.461—30.451 |
51 23 37.0 |
sw |
•00 |
|
S. |
13 |
30.291—30.262 |
46 25 35.5 |
\v |
.00 |
S. |
27 |
30.453-30.392 |
53 29 41.0 |
sw |
.00 |
|
s. |
14 |
30.249—30.187 |
47 22 34.5 |
w |
.01 |
S. |
28 |
30.498-30.465 |
59 28 43.5 |
sw |
.00 |
AVERAGES FOR THE ENSUING MONTH. The observations of sixteen years, show the following averages for the month of February : — Max, temperature, 44° ; ruin., 33° ; mean, 384° ; so that, as deduced from these observations, the month of February is J° far warmer lhan January. During the same period, the average fa'l of rain has been, 1.5 inches. The highest reading of the Thermometer in the month of February during thirty-one years past, occurred on the 10th, 1831, 65Q; and the lowest on the 17th in 1855—2°. A partial eclipso of the Moon will occur on the 27th, at 47m. past 7, evening, visible throughout Great Britain. PHASES OF THE MOON FOR FEBRUARY, 1858.
(C Last Quarter, 5th, 9h. 16m. p.m. • New Moon, 13th, lOh. 12m. p.m.
J First Quarter, 20th, 12h. 58m. a.m. O Full Moon, 27th, 10h.5m. p.m.
Hybrid Orchids. — Among the memoranda of the horticultural world the certainty that mule orchids may he artificially produced is now definitely determined. Under the care of Mr. Dominy, at Messrs. Veitchs' Exotic Nursery, Chelsea, a hybrid Calanthe has been obtained by crossing C. masuca with C'.furcata, and the result is a combination of the best qualities of both, the mule having the lobed lip of furcata and the violet colour of masuca.
MEETINGS AND EXHIBITIONS, FEBRUARY, 1858.
Tuesday 2nd, Horticultural, Regent-street. — Thursday 4th, Pomological,
St. Martin's Hall. — Saturday 27th, National Floricultural.
* Secretaries will oblige by forwarding Announcements, Schedules ,<£#., of forthcoming
Exhibitions.
THE
H §Uf©E.
March, 1858.
' <d3 B^ ^ none of the many remarks which ||~ C~~ have lately appeared in the garden-
V^^^ ing periodicals on the subject of
town gardens, have the writers at- tempted to lay down anything like definite plans for the guidance of those whose poor attempts at horti- culture they so justly characterise as a disgrace to our cities, and more especially so to London, where the public squares, which ought to be examples of how much may be accomplished, are rather examples of the meanness and utter want of taste on the part of those whose duty it is to conserve them. Yet, town gardening has made some substantial progress since the compulsory abolition of the smoke nuisance, and though the public evidences of improvement, as at the Temple Gardens and the Inns of Law, are as striking as they are few, private gardens — not in London and its suburbs only, but in all the towns of the kingdom — have, within the last three years, undergone many changes. If we can get individuals to take a real interest in their limited town and suburban plots, and to manage them in a sensible and tasteful way, a visible impiwement in the public squares is pretty sure to follow ; for we are strongly of opinion that, when examples of success are multi- plied by private individuals, a general public recognition of the rights of intramural vegetation must speedily take place. Admitting that town atmospheres must still continue to deposit soot, in spite of the most vigi- lant legislative action, the plentiful distribution of water, by means of suitable engines, all through the summer, is an obvious remedy ; but it is still more important to impress upon the possessors of gardens in towns, that virgin soil fresh from the country, to replace or refresh the worn- out, sour, and consolidated black mould usually met with in such spots, would do more towards ensuring a good display of evergreens and flowers, than any amount of manure or drenchings of water, as we are convinced that, in the majority of cases, where attempts at gardening in towns are found to be certain recipes for the heartache, the money wasted on
NO. III. — VOL. I. D
50 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
manure and new plants would, if appropriated to an entire change of the soil, give to the enterprise as many cheerful features as it had before of gloomy ones. Of course, manuring must be counted as one of the reme- dial measures — draining, deep digging, trenching, and watering are others ; but, above all things, the proper selection of plants for the purpose is the chief secret of success. On reference to the " Town Garden," whidi is the only work in which this knotty subject has yet been consecutively treated, we find that, so far from the choice of plants being limited, a very extensive assortment is proposed on the basis of the author's own experience and observations ; and a right hearty denuncia- tion is there of the abominable lilacs, firs, and laburnums — excellent things in a good air, but the very bane of our delapidated squares and miserable city gardens. It may be worth something to town folks, who we regret to say, seldom begin digging or planting till country people have finished, to know that some handsome deciduous trees, as the Oriental Plane, the Tulip tree, the Hornbeam, the Thorn, the hand- somest species of Poplar, the common Ash, Lime, Ontario Poplar, Willow, Birch, Maple, and even the apple, the Pear, and the Fig, thrive well in London smoke ; and the latter even flower and fruit freely where they have been originally well planted, and have a moderate amount of air and sunshine. Among evergreens, who has not many a time wondered at the healthy appearance of Aucubas, Lauristinus, and Rhododendrons, half buried in dark areas ; but when we remember that such things do best in the country when partially shaded by trees, it is clear that smoke and ill-treatment are the only real banes they have to fear, and season- able ablutions are the antidote for the first, and the extensive circulation of the " Floral World " the antidote for the second. The author of the " Town Garden " says : — " Laburnums and lilacs are grown very much in squares, and in front plots, in all parts of London, but any one may see they are very much out of their element," and in their place he recom- mends the use of the cheapest and commonest evergreens, especially those just named, with Ivy, Tree-box, Hollies, and Portugal Laurel ; but we would add to his suggestion, that those who may have a fancy for a choice collection may very safely choose from the most expensive of our choicest evergreens, even including the Desfontanias and Berberies, so long as they remember the rule to " avoid all trees which have gummy or resinous exudations, such as firs, larches, &c, for these fail, in consequence of the adherence of the soot to their bark, and the trees, at last, pine and become brown, and then perish through suffocation ;" and this observation is borne out by what Ave see everywhere. Loudon abolished the Conifers from the squares, and we now want those interested in these valuable properties to show a little liberality in the adoption of such plants as have been proved to be suitable both for effect and the peculiar circumstances under which they are to live.
In the way of flowers, all the best of the bedders (with the exception of Petunias and Salvias) and annuals and hardy perennials (excepting those of the Primula and Violet families) do