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A

SHILLING COOKERY

FOR

THE PEOPLE:

EMBRACING

AN ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OF PLAIN COOKERY AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY,

By ALEXIS SOYER,

AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE, ETC. ETC.

"Religion feeds the soul, Education the mind, Food the body."

Soter'3 History of Food.

©ne f^untrteti anti Kfaetg*jRrat SgiatMrcnfc

LONDON:

GEO. ROUTLEDGE & CO., EARRINGDON STREET.

NEW YORK: 18, BEEKMAN STREET.

1858.

[The Author of this Work reserves the right of translating iQ

. LONDOTT: SAYII1 AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHAWDOS STREET.

150821

TO THE EIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY,

ETC. ETC. ETC.

My Lord,

The kind condescension which permits the dedication of this work to one of such eminent philanthropic sentiments as your Lordship, has a claim upon my most profound gratitude, and more than repays me for the time and study I have devoted to its production

With the highest consideration,

I have the honour to be, Your Lordship's most humble and obedient servant,

ALEXIS SOYER.

PKEFACE

TO THE 1 10th THOUSAND.

It is with the most profound gratitude that I have onco more to thank the British public for their extraordinary and ever increasing patronage ; extraordinary is indeed the only word applicable to the success of this my last work, which has actually attained its hundred and tenth thousand in less than four months.

In this, the last edition of 10,000 copies, completing the above wonderful number, I have been induced by some friends to make my appearance at the head of the work as I am now in my ninth lustre. The majority of those friends being ladies, and making it a point of honour never to refuse anything in my power to those charming members of society, I immediately went to my friend, Mr. Hogg, the eminent photographer of West Strand, who in a few seconds produced a facsimile of

Yours most gratefully and devotedly,

A. SOY Ell in the year I85i

i

CONTENTS.

TAOX

Introduction.

Letter . • . •

Letter • • • •

Letter . . •

Soups in Iron Saucepan or Stewpan •

Gridiron ...»

Fish on Gridiron . . •

How to Boil all kinds of Fish . •

Fish in Tin-pan in Oven . •

Fried Fish ....

The Three-legged Iron-pot

Important Observations on Curing Haras and Bacon

Lamb .....

Ox-liver as used in France . •

French Pot-au-feu

Important Remarks on Cod-liver Oil

Carthusian of Meat and Vegetables

General Ignorance ef the Poor in Cooking

The Gridiron and Frying-pan .

Important Remarks on Steak and Rumpsteak

Introduction to Frying-pan

Fowls ....

Curious Effects of Imagination . •

Introduction to Baking Stewpan .

Hints on the Pig

Od Roasting ....

How to Roast

On the Economy of Roasting by Gas, Note

Cottage Roasting

Time-table for Roasting

On Meat in Baker's Oven . .

A few Hints on Baking Meat .

An Improved Baking -dish. . .

A Series of Receipts on Baked Meats

Meat Puddings

Meat Pies ....

General Lesson on the Cooking of Vegetables

Plant called the Thousand Heads

Eggs . .^ .

Omelettes or Fraise . •

On Pastry •

X CONTENTS.
PAGB
National French Cake, or Galette . ." i	. 125
Introduction to Sweet and Savoury Pies		. 126
Sweet and Fruit Puddings . . •			128
Observations on Bottled Preserves «				134
Stewed Fruits ....				140
Sweet and Fruit Cakes				142
Bread ....				, 146
Sauces . . . <				149
Salads . • • •				, 155
Relishes * - •				. 159
Mushrooms				ib.
Culinary, Miscellaneous				, 361
Pickles				. 166
A few Hints on Coffee, Tea, &c. «				ib.
Beverages				, 168
Series of New and Cheap Drinks				. 170
On Marketing «				ib.
Kitchen Requisites . . .				. 174
On the Selection of Vegetables . «				. 175
Soyer's Aerial Cooking Stove ♦				ib,

IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS.

First, most of the receipts, having been especially written for the various ordinary kitchen utensils, some of them may appear to the reader to be repetitions, which is not the case, as the same food may be used, yet each process will differ one from the other, from having been cooked in a different manner.

Secondly, to obviate the reading of two or three receipts to be able to execute one, I have made each receipt in itself as complete as possible, as regards seasoning and proportion, and the few references I unavoidably make will, after a little practice, become familiar to my readers

Many of the receipts may appear to you rather lengthy, but I want to draw your attention to the fact, that they are more than receipts— indeed, I may call them plain lessons, some containing a number of receipts in one. t m

In some cookery books many receipts are explained m few lines, which at first sight gives to the thing the appearance of simplicity ; but when acted on by the uninitiated are found totally impracticable.

By my plan my readers may read and prepare the contents of two or three lines at a time, so that when they get at the end of a lesson, their dish will be found well seasoned and properly cooked.

INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

Dear Eloise,

More than a year has now elapsed since I wrote to you, with a promise that I would send you such receipts as should be of use to the artisan, mechanic, and cottager. The time has, however, passed so quickly, that I was not aware of its hasty flight, until I took up the last edition of our "Housewife." But still, dearest, I must say I have not lost any time ; for you will find that my letters, which have conveyed my receipts from time to time, have been dated from almost every county in the United Kingdom.

In the course of my peregrinations, I have made a point of visiting the cottages and abodes of the industrious classes generally, and have also closely examined the pecu- liarities and manners which distinguish each county, as well as the different kinds of labour; and I have viewed with pleasure the exertions made by philanthropic indi- viduals to improve the morals of the labouring class, and render their dwellings more comfortable. But still I have found a great want of knowledge in that one object which produces almost as much comfort as all the rest put together, viz., the means of making the most of that food which the great Architect of the Heavens has so bountifully spread uefore us on the face of the globe.

2 INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

Those who visit these humble abodes to inculcate the divine precepts of the Saviour of mankind, do but half the great work, unless they at the same time show how those things which the Almighty has created as food for man can be employed towards his nourishment.

In some of my letters, my dear friend, I think I have 5ent you a description of some scenes I witnessed in the course of my rambles, especially in Ireland, resulting from a want of knowledge, all of which bears a moral; and what a high feeling of delight and satisfaction it will be to us, should we find that the result of our labour is crowned with success, in ameliorating the conditions of these classes; for believe me, I was right when I stated that the morals of a people greatly depend on their food and wherever the home of an individual, in whatever class of society he may move, is made comfortable and happy, the more moral and religious will that person be.

Dearest Hortense,

I highly approve of your plan ; it is time that it was put into action. I am fearfal that our friends, the public, to whom we promised, some four years since, a work like the present, will have become impatient ; but they will be gainers by the delay, as by your visits to the various parts of the United Kingdom, you have obtained that insight into the domestic arrange- ments of the class of persons for whom it is intended, that could not be obtained by any other means.

INTRODUCTORY LETTERS. 3

Your new plan of writing a series of receipts peculiarly adapted for such humble utensils as the gridiron, frying- pan, iron pan, and black pot, is at once original, and cannot fail of being very effective; for no matter how humble or poor the dwelling, one of those faithful servants are sure to be found at its post ; and I do not doubt but that, under your tuition, they will prove of greater value to the public at large than they hitherto have been.

If a person, after purchasing this work for a shilling, had to lay out five or six more in kitchen utensils before he could cook by it, it would be a great drawback on its worth ; but by your happy and simple style, you have so successfully avoided all complicated matters in its pages, that nothing will be requisite but the aforesaid simple kitchen implements to bring it into action.

I also perceive, with pleasure, that you have not omitted the slightest article of cheap food of any descrip- tion, which, with the numerous receipts you give for dressing the same, must prove a great blessing to many, and only require to be introduced to the notice of the public to form a part of their daily diet.

It is to be regretted that men of science do not interest themselves more than they do on a subject of such vast magnitude as this; for I feel confident that the food of a country might be increased at least one-third, if the culinary science was properly developed, instead of its being slighted as it is now. I myself think it worthy the attention of a peer of the realm; for, as you justly observe, the morals of a country greatly depend on the

INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

production and preparation of its food, and most heartily do I re-echo your sentiments.

My dearest Friend,

You are right. Cookery, ia our era, has been thought beneath the attention of men of science ; and yet, was there ever a political, commercial, or even a domestic event, but what always has been, and always will be, celebrated either by a banquet or a dinner? And pray, who is answerable for the comfort and conviviality of the guests of such festivals but the cook, who has been in- trusted with such important duties 1 The selection of good and proper beverages will, of course, greatly assist the cook's endeavours; but these may be purchased months, or even years, before you require them, which would of course give you an ample chance of remedying any error ; while a dinner is the creation of a day and the success of a, moment. Therefore you will perceive that nothing more disposes the heart to amicable feeling and friendly trans- actions, than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared.

In ancient times, a cook, especially if a man, was looked upon as a distinguished member of society; while now he is, in the opinion of almost every one, a mere menial.

Still there are a few who highly appreciate the know- ledge he possesses, especially in the higher circles, who have classified cookery as a high art. For example, let us see what one of the greatest chemists of the day

INTRODUCTORY LETTER3. 5

(Liebig) says on this imperishable subject, in his valuable Trork, * The Chemistry of Food/' that

M Among all the arts known to man there is none which enjoys a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more universally admired, than that which is concerned in the pre- paration of our food. Led by an instinct, which has almost reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and the preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to the doctrine or theory of nutrition. In soup and meat sauces, he imitates the gastric juice; and by the cheese which closes the banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithelium of the stomach. The table, supplied with dishes, appears to the observer like a machine, the parts of which are harmoniously fitted together, and so arranged that, when brought into action, a maximum of effect may be obtained by the theory of them. The able culinary artist accompanies the sanguineous matter with those which promote the process of solution and sanguifi- cation, in due proportion ; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium ; and he provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man, as well as for the strong of both sexes."

Such is the high eulogium paid to culinary science by that learned man ; and perhaps there is no one more able of appreciating its value than him. Therefore I do not yet despair of seeing the day when that science, like others, will have its qualified professors. I now close our labours for the present, and wait with anxiety the first proof, which on receiving I wiii immediately correct and forward to you.

COOKERY FOR THE PEOPLE.

SOUPS, IN IRON SAUCEPAN, OR STEWPAN.

SIMPLIFIED STOCK FOR SOUPS, GRAVIES, AND PLAIN SAUCES.

Eloise, — Perhaps you are not aware of the reason why the great majority of people in this country are opposed to, and even accused of not liking, soup ; the simple reason is, that every receipt described in most Cookery Books, is so complicated and expensive, that they cannot afford either the money, time, or attention, to prepare it. I will therefore endeavour, in this little book, to obviate that difficulty, by simplifying the receipts, and reduce it to a system alike quick, nutritious, wholesome, and economical; and thus soup may forai a part of the daily fare of every dinner table.

Please pay particular attention to the following receipt, for when you are perfect in it, and can make it quick and well, almost every sort of soup can be made from it, and it will often be referred to in different sauces and dishes.

1. Stock for Clear Soup. First Lesson. — Cut two pounds of knuckle or scrag of veal into small pieces, place them in the iron pot or ste^pan, with two ounces of salt butter or dripping two ounces of \ n bacon cut small, three teaspoonfuk of salt, half a spoonful of pepper, a gill of water, three middle-sized, or six ounces of, onions sliced. Put on the fire ; when boiling, stit round with a spoon for about ten minutes, or until it forms a whitish thick gravy at the bottom, or gets rather dry, then add five pints of hot or cold water ; when boiling, let it simmer gently for three quarters of an hour, skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and it will be found clear and ready for use for the following soups. Only one third of this quantity need be made*

8 eours.

In caso bacon or ham cannot be obtained, use half a pound more meat and a little more salt.

The meat not being overstewed, will be found excellent eaten plain, or with parsley and butter, or any sauce.

2. Second Lesson. — Proceed exactly as No. 1. Add two cloves and about two ounces of carrot, and the same of turnip, leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of them, if you cannot get the variety. To add more zest to the flavour, add the smallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf. You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns, an assorted lot of vegetables may be obtained at one penny per plate, and sometimes at one halfpenny. This second lesson is very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may vary the flavour of every kind of soup.

Note. This broth is of a nice white colour, and should it be required to look like sherry wine, add sufficient colouring, (see No. 453), or half a burnt onion when it is making : these in most large cities are now becoming common, and may be procured at the grocers, at the cost of eigbtpence the pound. They will go a great way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years.

3. Brown Gravies. — The following is very good for brown gauce, and also for every kind of roast meat, game, or poultry; and a gill of it may be used to give a colour to any kind of broth, instead of colouring or burnt onions. As there is a little difficulty to make it properly, it should only be done on particular occasions.

Grease the bottom of the pot with about two ounces of fat, butter, or dripping; cut four onions in thick slices crossways, lay them on the bottom, and place over them three pounds of leg or shin of beef, or clod and sticking ; cut it slantway in pieces, chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonfn/ of pepper; set it- on the fire until it begins to hiss, wbiel indicates that all the moisture is dispersed ; reduce the heat ol the fire by throwing ashes on the top ; put on the pan with the cover over. Let the onions stew until quite brown, but not burnt, and the fat is as clear as oil, which you will easily perceive jy holding the pan or pot on one side, the contents of which will be smoking hot, and stick to the bottom, though not burning, immediately add five pints of cold water; when boiling, skim and simmer one hour; pass through the sieve, and put by till

SOUPS. 9

(/anted, ft will keep for many days in winter, and also in summer, by boiling it every other day, with the addition of half a gill of water added to it now and then.

4. Lesson No. 2. — The remains of roast or boiled meat, game, poultry, &c, may be added, cut up, and the bones broken, using only half the quantity of meat. The meat may be taken out and served separate, with a mustard or any sharp sauce.

The addition of cloves (say four), a little mace, carrots, turnips, and celery, and a few sweet herbs, will vary the flavour of the gravy.

5. Clear Vegetable Soup, Lesson No. 1. — Cut in small dice, two-thirds of carrots and turnips, and one-third of onions, leeks, and celery, altogether about half a pound ; wash them well, drain, put into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a teaspoonful of sugar; put on the fire, stir often; when no moisture is to be seen add three pints of broth No. 1, simmer and skim, until the carrots are tender, and serve. If all the above vege- tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight of either. Be careful that you remove the fat from all clear soup. All clear vegetable soup, when done, ought to partake of a brownish colour.

6. Lesson No. 2. — The addition of a few green peas, when ia season, also small pieces of brocoli, a cauliflower, or a few Brussels sprouts, previously boiled, makes an improvement in the above. A little chervil and tarragon render it both pleasant and refreshing.

7. Clear Turnip, Lesson No. 3. — Peel and cut in large dice half a pound of turnips, put in pan with butter or fat, and alittl*. sugar ; proceed as above, Lesson No. 1, add the broth, simmer skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. L Give it a nice brown colour. If turnips are either streaky ot Ipongy, they will not do.

8. Jerusalem Artichokes. — Wash, peel, cut in dice, and fry ac above ; when nothing but the clear fat is seen in the pan, and they are sufficiently done, add the broth. A few minutes will cool: Item.

9. Carrot Soup. — For carrots proceed as ?»bove, and dimmer till tender ; they take twice as long as the artichokes doing.

10 soups.

10. Vermicelli and Macaroni. — Pray, Eloise, why should not the workman and mechanic partake of these wholesome and nu- tritious articles of food, which have now, in consequence of those restrictive laws on provisions having been repealed, become so plentiful and cheap ? It only requires to know how to cook them, in order that they should become as favourite a food in these northern climes, as they are in the southern.* Boil three pints of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of vermicelli or macaroni; boil till tender, and serve. Macaroni takes twice as long as vermicelli doing.

Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and water for some days, and used as required for soups and made dishes.

11. Hice. — Wash well two ounces of common Bengal rice ; boil it gently in three pints of broth ; when tender, serve.

12. Tapioca and Semolina. — In case of illness, two ounces of tapioca or semolina may be used instead.

13. Wliite Soup with Meat. — When the broth No. 1 is done, skim off the fat, put the meat in the tureen, then put into a 6asin two ounces ,of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper ; add to the broth by degrees ; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring ; skim and serve with the meat. Fried or toasted bread cut in dice may be added.

14. Good Write Mock Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply made thus : — Purchase a calf's head ; if large, use one half for a day's dinner ; cook as receipt No. 87 ; take the remains of that, if any, with the other half, and remove the bone ; cut the meat into square pieces ; add it in proportion of one pound of meat to every four quarts of broth of No. 1 ; mix some flour and milk, as above, and add it to it, and half a teaspoonful ei cayenne pepper, and four cloves ; let it simmer on the fire fol one hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thyme, which put into the soup, and remove when serving. The juice of half a lemon is an improvement, just before serving, as well as a drop of

* Macaroni is now selling in London at fivepcnce per pound, and makes four pounds of food when boiled, as No. 463.

SOUPS. 1 1

wine, if handy. If required brown, add three tablespoonfuls ol colouring ; and use water or broth for thickening, instead of milk. The water in which the calf's head is boiled may be kept, and added to the stock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled occasionally, and a little water added ; it should never be covered, or fermentation will commence ; it should be occasionally stirred until cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than thin ones, more particularly if they have vegetables and flour in them ; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin, leave the mouth exposed to the air.

15. Coio-hecl. — Another very cheap and nutritions soup may be made by an ox-foot or cow-heel ; having bought them cleaned and partly boiled, stew them till tender, remove the meat from the bone, cut them into nice pieces, and proceed as for mock- turtle.

1G. White Soup, with Vegetables, Sfc. — Having cut and fried the same quantity of vegetables as No. 1, add them to the white soup, free from meat as No. 13 ; simmer and skim off the fat. Two ounces of vermicelli, macaroni, rice, &c, previously boiled, can be nsed in the same way.

17. Puree, or Thick Vegetable Soups. — Green Pea.—Vut % quart of large green peas, when cheap, in the pot or pan, with two ounces of butter or fat, and the same of lean bacon cut small, a middling-sized onion, little mint, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill of water ; set on slow fire, stir now and then, or until no more moisture remains on the bottom of the pan; add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon ; moisten with a quart of milk and a quart of water, simmer twenty minutes, or more if old peas, and serve.

This, by leaving out the bacon, becomes Meagre Soup. Fried bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment.

If you have any broth (No. 1), use it instead of the milk and *ater.

By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an tiviting puree is produced; after which warm up, and serve.

18. Pumpkin Soup is a very favourite dish in many parts o

12 soups.

France, especially with the juveniles ; and when in season, there- is not a school, college, hospital, convent, or monastery, where it is not made; a proof that it must he very wholesome. In this country, whose climate will not allow its arriving at the same size as on the Continent, the Vegetable Marrow, the American Butter Squash, and the Mammoth Gourd, will replace them.

Cut about two pounds of the flesh of the pumpkin or gourd into large dice, put it into your pan, with three ounces of salt butter or fat ; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, the same of sugar, a little pepper, and half a pint of water ; set on the fire, and stew gently for twenty minutes. When in pulp, add two table- spoonfuls of Hour, stir round, and moisten with three pints of either milk, skim-milk, or water, boil ten minutes longer, and serve with fried or toasted bread, cut in dice.

19. Meagre Soups. — This soup is on the list of meagre soups, a word used by the Catholics for dishes partaken of in Lent, but which is not understood in England ; the word having the meaning, want of strength. But this soup, and many others in the same category, are well worthy the attention of the middle classes of this country, it being only meagre in name, and not in fact, as it possesses a large quantity of farinaceous matter j bread being also served with it.

20. Vegetable Marrow. — Peel, and take out the inside, if seeded, cut in slices about two pounds ; put in saucepan on the fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter or fat ; add two tea- spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one quarter of the same of pepper, a gill of water, and one onion sliced ; stew gently until in pulp, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and proceed as for pumpkin soup.

21. Turnip Soup. — Use two and a half pounds of good turnips, and proceed as above.

22. Bed Carrot Soup. — Scrape gently, and cut in very thin slices two pounds of carrots ; put them in the saucepan or pot with two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a little thyme, salt, pepper, sugar, as above, half a pint of water, simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and two quarts of broth (No. 1), or use milk, or even water.

soups. 13

{t is much better passed through a hair sieve, after which warm ap again and serve.

IVhite Carrot. — Proceed as for the red.

The Swede, Parsnip, Bed and White Beet. — Proceed as for carrot.

23. New Spring and Autumn Soup. — A most refreshing and exquisite soup. At the end of the London season, when the .oarkets are full of everything, and few to partake of them, this soup can be made as a bonne bouche : —

Wash, dry, and cut up four cabbage lettuces, and one coss ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and two |r three small cucumbers peeled and sliced ; put into a saucepan a quarter of a pound of butter, then set in the vegetables ; put on a slow fire, and stir often, until there is no liquid remaining ; add two tablespoonfuls of Hour, mix well, and moisten with two quarts of broth (No. 1) or water, and set it to boil ; when boil- ing, add a pint of green peas, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little pepper and salt ; when the peas are tender, serve. If you use water, increase the quantity of seasoning.

New CocJc-a-LeeMe.

Ma chere Amie, — With all due respect to Scotch cookery, I will always give the preference, in the way of soup, to their cock-a-lcekie, even before their inimitable hoclge-podge. Having a very old friend, from the neighbourhood of Dundee, who used to praise my cock-a- leekie, when on a visit to St. John's Wood, I thought I would give him the same treat here, and on looking over my frugal store and garden of Camellia Cottage, I found I had all that was required, barring the bird; but, with a little perseverance and ingenuity, I succeeded in producing a very nice soup, although it wanted the principal ingredient, so that it deceived not only my husband, but my friend from the other side of the Tweed. Here is the receipt :

24. — I bought two pounds of veal cutlet, and cut it into pieces, like the flesh from the breast cf a fowl, and put them in the pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean nacon, three cloves, two good onions sliced, two teaspoonfuls of gait, one of sugar, half a one of pepper, a gill of water ; set it on the fire, turn it over until forming a white glaze at the bottom, add to it five pints of water, simmer half an hour, pass through a sieve, save the best pieces of the veal. In the mean-

14 soups.

time blanch two pounds of leeks, free from the top green part, for ten minutes, in a gallon of water, and drain them ; then boil the stock and half the leeks together, till almost in a pulp, then add the other half of the leeks and the meat, also eighteen good fresh French plums ; simmer half an hour, and serve.

I must observe that my friend praised it very much for having j>ut in the flesh of the fowl only, as he thought, and not the whole carcase, which is the way they serve it in Scotland ; an exceedingly inconvenient way, as everybody expects a piece ol the fowl, and you often tear it to pieces in serving.

25. Simplified Hodge- Podge. — Cut two pounds of fresh scrag cf mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water, and a tablespoonful of salt, one ditto of sugar, half a ditto of pepper ; set it on the fire ; when boiling, place it at the side to simmer for one hour; keep it skimmed ; well wash a large carrot, two turnips, two onions, and six small cabbage lettuces ; cut them up, and place in the pot, and simmer till done. A pint of green peas, if in season, may be added. A carrot grated is an improvement. If in winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce. Serve the meat with it.

26. Various Meat Soups. — Giblet. — These should be pro- cured ready cleaned, but if not, they must be scalded ; when $one, cut them into about twelve pieces, wash them well, and Jry in a cloth ; put into a pan a quarter of a pound of butter of dripping, set it on the fire, melt it, then add four ounces of flow, stir continually until it begins to brown, add two ounces of lean bacon, and two onions or leeks sliced, fry a few minutes longer, put in the giblets, fry gently for ten minutes, stirring now and then, pour over two quarts of water, stir till boiling, and set it to simmer ; then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half one of pepper one of sugar, three clones, a little thyme, bay leaf, and about a quarter of a pound of celery well washed and cut up small; continue simmering until the giblets are tender, remove the flit, and serve. A wineglass of sherry and a little cayenne may be added. A. pound of beef or veal is, of course, a great im- provement. This receipt is for the giblets of a middle-sized turkey.

soups. 15

27. Hare Soup.

My dear EloisB, — Since the alteration in our circumstances I have learnt to practise the most rigid economy, which you will remark iij this receipt. When I buy a hare, as I sometimes Jo, for two sliil* lings, skinning it myself, nnd selling the skin for fourpence, I sava all the blood in a pie-dish, take out the heart and liver, removing the gall ; 1 then cut the hare into two, across the back, close to the last ribs, and cut this part into pieces, using it for soup, and the hindpart I keep for roasting the following day.

28. Hare Soup. — I then proceed as for giblet sou£, only using half a pound of either veal, beef, or mutton, cut into dice, and put in the pot with the hare. Fifteen minutes before serving, I mix the blood with the heart and liver, which I have chopped fine, and boil it up ten minutes ; skim and serve. The addition of a little brown sugar and a glass of port wine is an improvement : if no wine, a little stout or porter will improve it. It ought to be of a dark brown colour, for which use colouring.

29. Ox Tail. — Cut them at the joints, and proceed as for giblets, adding one pint more water for two small tails, and simmer half an hour longer, or till done. This should be of a brown colour. Vegetables cut into dice may be added. Serve when tender : some will take double the time cooking, according to size.

30. Ox Ckeek. — Boil half a large cheek for twenty minutes in two quarts of water, to set it ; take it out, cut it into thin slices, or small pieces, and then proceed exactly as for giblets. Serve when tender.

31. Simplified Mulligatawny, quickly done. Lesson 1.— Cut in small dice two pounds of leg of veal, no bone, then put in the pan with two ounces of salt butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, a quarter that of pepper, a quarter of a pound of onions sliced, and a wine-glass of water. Put it in the pan and place on the fire, stir it about until nearly dry ; two ounces of bacon or ham is an improvement; then add a good teaspoonful and a half of curry powder, four of flour, and one of brown sugar ; moisten with five pints of water, simmer for an hour or a little longer, %kim, and serve. Half a pound of rice, as No. 455, may be served either with it or separate.

6 soups.

Lesson 2. — To the above may be added a small apple, cut in Aiin slices, also any other meat may be used, instead of veal, fmd a little bunch of aromatic herbs; the meat to remain in the fcoup.

32. New Mutton Broth. — Cut two pounds of the scrag, or any other lean part of mutton, in ten or twelve pieces, put in a pan with two ounces of fat, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, a gill of water, two middle-sized onions, a good teacupful of pearl barley. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced, moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, simmer twro hovrs ; and serve.

33. Potato Soup. — Proceed as above, omit the barley, add two pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut in slices, put them in when the broth is boiling ; simmer till in pulp, and serve. A few sprigs of parsley, or the flowers of four marigolds, is an improvement, and, at the same time, an agreeable change.

34 Ox Tail Soup in Baking Tan. — Divide two ox tails, wash them well in cold water, then put them in the pan, with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four cloves, a little thyme, if handy, two good onions ; add three quarts cf water, two tablespoonfuls of colouring; put on the cover, place it in a moderate oven for three hours to simmer, take off the fat, which save for use, and serve. Half a pound of any vegetable, mixed or not, cut in dice, can be added with advantage.

35. Ox Cheelc in Baking Ban. — Get half a one ready boned, if not to be had, get the half head with the bone, in wrhich case they should be broken small and put in the broth ; but it gives more trouble than it is worth. The solid meat at threepence per pound is more economical. Wash it well, cut off the white part, put the cheek in the pan, and proceed exactly as above , only give it three or four hours to bake. A little mixed spice improves the flavour. Take the fat oif, remove the meat, cut it into small pieces, put it into the tureen, and pour the broth over.

36. Cheap Pea Soup. — Put into the iron pot two ounces of dripping, one quarter of a pound of bacon, cut into dice, two good onions sliced ; fry them gently until brownish, then add one large or two small turnips, the same of carrots, one leek, and one head of celery, all cut thin and slanting (if all these

FISH ON GRIDIRON. 17

:annot be obtained, use any of them, but about tbe same amount) ; fry for ten minutes more, and then add seven quarts o* wafer ; boil up, and add one pound and a half of split peas simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint ; mix half a pound of flour smooth in a pint of water, stir it well ; pour in the soup, boil thirty minutes, and serve.

37. The above Mecgre. — Precisely as above, only oil or butter used instead of bacon or dripping : skiin-milk could with advantage be used, in which case add three ounces of salt. Although this is entirely deprived of animal substances, yet the iarinaceous ingredients, with the addition of bread, will act generously on the digestive organs, satisfying the heartiest eater.

GRIDIRON.

With this primitive utensil a great deal may be done in the way of cooking, but it requires care, or otherwise great loss of food and money will be sustained ; a few minutes' constant attention, when the article is on the gridiron, will save at least twenty per cent., and the palate will feel more gratified.

I use two kinds of gridirons, each costing very little; one is of cast iron, to go on the fire, and the other is of iron wire, made double, to hang from the bar ot the grate before the fire, made so as not to too much press the object cooked within it. The principal care in this, as in all kitchen utensils, is never to put them away dirty; always wiping the gridiron after it has been used, and again before you use it, and a place kept where it should be hung.

WHAT I CAN COOK WITH MY GRIDIRON.

Firstly, Fish, nearly all sorts, both dried and fresh, either whole or in pieces. I shall not begin with the king of the ocean, but with one of the most humble of its inhabitants, and which daily gratifies the palates of millions ; it is —

TSie Plain Red Herring. — Though we have agreed to make use cf tvery kind of eatable food, it is still important to point out the best

18 FISH ON GRIDIRON.

quality first, for I must tell you, that the quality of herring*, varies rs much, if not more, than any other kind of food; the proper way of curing them being as important to know as the quality of the flesh itself. This unassuming kind of fish, which we may venture to call the poor man's friend, ought to be chosen plump, though not too full of roe, as when they have large roes they are sure to be oily, and cannot have taken the salt properly ; they feel softish to the touch, eat stringy, and sometimes decay, and emit a had smell while cooking; these are unwholesome : but if hard and firm, the flesh reddish, the roe well set, and smell sweet, they are good. The only drawback is that they might be too salt, which cannot be avoided, only by cutting the back up, and soaking them in lukewarm water for a few hours, and when taken out well dried on a cloth, previous to their being cooked. But the way to ascertain if a herring is too salt, is to take the fish in the left hand, and pull out a few of the fins from the back, and taste ; you may thus find out the quality and flavour. This plan is adopted by large dealers.

38. Wipe your herring ; dry it well in a cloth : you may slightly split the back, or make a few incisions crossways; rub it with flour, or dress it plainly, by placing the herring on the gridiron about six inches over a clear fire, or before it ; turn them often, and in five minutes they may be done, according to size.

Or, when it is done, mix a piece of butter with a little mustard together, and place inside of it, or rub it over. By opening the back, it will do much quicker ; but to keep the essence in it, it should be done whole.

Or, butter and chopped parsley, and a little vinegar or lemon juice.

Or, butter and chopped fennel and onions, very fine.

Or, cut off the head, open it up the back with a knife, and remove the back bone of the herring ; put in about one ounce of butter and chopped parsley, with a slight tint of onion. Fold two herrings together in some paper, so that the fat does not escape ; broil gently for nearly twenty minutes, and serve. The butter is to be inclosed between the two herrings.

The same plan with a bloater and a fresh herring dressed together is first-rate.

39. Fresh Herrings. — These should be cleaned and scaled, the head removed, opened on the back, and the gut taken out. Make three slight incisions on each side, throw some pepper and

PISH ON GRIDIRON. 19

salt over it, broil for ten minutes, and serve plain, or with either plain melted butter or fish sauce.

Or, a little mixed pickle chopped fine, with melted butter, also makes a good sauce for herrings.

40. Haddoclc. — A fine Finnan haddock should be rubbed with butter, and plain broiled before the fire for ten minutes, or more if rather large, keeping it of a yellowish colour, and turning it occasionally. If very salt, steep it in water for one hour ; beat the thick side down, and broil gently.

Another Way. — Cut a middling-sized haddock in six pieces, which wash in cold water, take them out, and place them eitliei in a bason or pan, then pour over about a quart of boiling water, covering your bason or pan over, so that no steam can escape- after your haddock has steamed ten minutes, take it out, placf on a dish, rub over with butter, sprinkle a little pepper over, and serve.

Sprats and pickled herrings can also be done this way, as likewise smoked salmon; you may vary the flavour of this simple dish, by adding either a little chives, thyme, winter savory, bayleaf, parsley, eschalots, or onions.

41. Wldtings, Fresh, should be merely cleaned, cut on each side, rubbed over with salt, pepper, and flour, and broiled for seven to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter, or without, adding a little vinegar or lemon in the sauce.

42. Mackerel. — Cut off the point of the head, open it at the back, keep it open flat. Pepper and salt, and fennel, if handy ; place it between the fish, broil gently for ten minutes, and serve with either melted butter, or parsley and butter, or black butter sauce. (See No. 425 a.)

43. — Cut as above, open it on the back, chop up a small piece of fat bacon, with some parsley, one eschalot, or a small onion; add a teaspoonful of vinegar ; fill the inside with this stuffing. Close it again ; tie it round with a string, broil very gently for twelve to fifteen minutes: it depends on the fire and size. Serve plain.

44. — Prepare it as above, and put it into a pie dish, with vinegar, salt, pepper, and slices of onion, for an hour, and broil as before.

20 FISH ON GRIDIRON.

45. — Get a tin baking dish, and put into it some chives chopped fine, some parsley, salt, pepper, a little vinegar, and about one ounce of butter or lard : put the mackerel, cut open at the back, and divided in six pieces ; place it on the gridiron, turn the pieces, and in about twenty minutes they are dona Serve it on the tin dish. Onions may be used.

46. — It may be put into paper, like the herring, No. 38, an<J served without any sauce.

Small fresh- water fish, such as tench, pike, perch, barbel, &c, may be done like mackerel.

47. Small Soles and Flounders are very good when nicely broiled in the double gridiron before a clear fire; the time depends on the size and the state of the fire : they should be rubbed with salt, pepper, and flour.

48. Salmon, Salted, should be cut in small slices, of about one quarter of a pound each, slantways, rubbed with either butter or oil, and broiled gently. Serve plain, or can be broiled, wrapped up in oil paper.

49. Eels, Dried. — Steep them in water and vinegar for twelve hours, rub them with butter, cut them into pieces four inches long; broil gently, and serve. These are rather scarce, but very good thus.

50. JEcls, Fresh. — Skin and cut them into lengths of four to five inches ; broil gently for seven to ten minutes ; have some parsley chopped fine, which mix with some butter, and put a little in each piece, and serve very hot. They may also be egged and bread-crummed (see Fried Eels), or with plain sauce.

51. Ling, Fresh. — Take about a pound of ling, cut it into slices of about three-quarters of an inch thick, rub it with pepper and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire ; in about ten minutes it will be done. Serve it plain, or with a littk I melted butter and chopped parsley, lemon or vinegar, or with | a little piece of the liver chopped up and boiled in the sauce.

Turbot, brill, hake, halibut, plaice, or cod, may be cooked the same way, either over or before the fire.

tfJSH BOILED IN POT, TAN, OR STEW-PAN 21

HOW TO BOIL ALL KINDS OF FISH, EITHER WHOLE OR IN SLICES.

GENERAL RECEIPTS.

In all processes of cooking that which appears the simplest is generally the most neglected, or at best but carelessly done. Many persons, unacquainted with the subject, would imagine that the boiling pf fish is so simple, that it merely requires to be put on the fire in a saucepan full of water, and let simmer or boil until it has lost its transparency, to be fit to eat. To those who are careless and extra- vagant, this process may answer very well; they know no better, and do not care to improve ; but to the careful housewife, who wishes to make every penny go as far as possible, by retaining in every article of food she cooks the flavour and succulence it possesses (which is, in fact, the basis of economical and perfect cookery, no matter how simple it may be), the following simple receipt, if carefully followed, will greatly assist: —

First of all, let us remember that all large fish, with the skin whole, must be placed on the fire in cold water; if crimped, or cut in slices or pieces, in boiling water; if whole, it must not be covered with more than two or three inches of water, or the skin will crack, and not only spoil the appearance of the fish, but will diminish the gelatine and gluten it contains, and instead of eating firm and full of flavour, it will be soft and woolly, especially if overboiled.

For all kinds of fish, to every quart of water put two teaspoonfuls of salt; and if the fish be whole, as soon as it begins to boil, remove the cover on one side, and let simmer gently till quite dene, calcu- lating the time according to the size and quality, which vary so much, that it would be quite impossible to say, " Take a cod, turbot, or salmon, or any other fish weighing so many pounds, and boil so long ;" for according to its quality, the process of cooking will act upon it, and therefore in all the following receipts we must make use of the word about with regard to time, but by all means do it rather over than under. If large fish, I generally try it by gently pushing a wooden skewer through the thickest part; if it goes in easily, it is done.

Hoiv to ascertain if Fish, together hoiled, steived, or fried, is done. —If the bone sticks firm to the flesh, or the flesh to the bone, it is not done; by the same rule, if quite loose, and the flesh of the fish drops off the bone, it is overdone, and you lose some of its qualities. For fish in slices try the bone with your knife; ?f the flesh cornea frcm it, it is done ; or by placing the point of a knife between the

22 FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, Oil STEW-PAN.

flesh and the bone, tmd on raising it, if done, the knife will part it easily.

To boil fish whole, such as turbot, plaice, large soles, salmon, cod, trout, pike, or any such like fish, it is requisite to have a drainer at the bottom of the kettle, or you will be sure to break your fish to pieces; and as the cottage of a working man is seldom furnished with cooking utensils of this nature, let him cut his large fish in pieces, or boil only small ones ; but as, no doubt, the middle classes of society will buy largely of this our last work, I think I am in duty bound, Eloise, to give the following receipt, which, without the fore- going explanation, might seem to you out of place.

52. To boil Brill. — Place your fish in the pan, letting it lay on the strainer ; rub it over with six teaspoonfuls of salt — it will make it firmer, then add six pints of cold water, or enough to cover the fish ; put 3Tour pan on the fire, and when it com- mences to boil, put the lid slightly on one side, and let simmer till done. A brill of about five or six pounds will be done in half an hour after boiling. When sufficiently cooked, lay hold of both ends of the drainer, lift your fish out, and let it lay on the top of the kettle for two or three minutes, then slip it on your dish on a napkin, and garnish round with parsley, if any. If your fish weighs from three to four pounds, it will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes doing on a moderate fire. Anchovy, shrimp, lobster, or lemon sauce, may be used.

53. Turbot. — Make two incisions with a knife across the back — it prevents the white skin on the top cracking ; rub it with the juice of a lemon and salt previous to putting the water over; let it layabout three inches under water. A turbot of seven or eight pounds will take about three quarters of an hour doing, after the water commences boiling ; one of fifteen pounds, one hour and thirty minutes. Serve with either of the above sauces, or cream sauce No. 424

54. Salmon. — A salmon weighing ten pounds will take one hour gently simmering when the water commences boiling. Head and shoulders of six pounds, forty minutes; cod fish of the same weight as the salmon, fifteen minutes less ; cod's head and shoulders, ten minutes less ; conger eels, hake, ling, same time as ccd. The liver and roe of any of the above-named fish are very good when boiled and served with them.

Gurnet, pike, barbel, and carp are boiled the same way. If

FISH BOILED IN POT, PAN, OR STEW- PAN. 23

iither the turbot, salmon, or cod is crimped, it will take less time to boil, and should be put in boiling water, timing it iq proportion to the other fish that has been put in cold water.

55. How to boil Sliced Fish. — To every pint of water put a teaspoonful of salt ; when boiling, add your fish, of whatever kind it may be, calculating that a pound of any sort of fish will take from fifteen to twenty minutes ; but ascertain if the bona separates easily from the flesh, as described in the preceding direc- tions. Halibut and sturgeon will take longer than any other fish, plaice less than any. Any fish cut in slices will always eat firmer and better if rubbed, previous to boiling, with the quantity of salt you otherwise put in the water ; therefore boil the water plain, adding the fish and salt at the same time. Mackerel will take from fifteen to twenty minutes ; trout and haddocks of the size of a iziackerel, a little longer ; herrings, from twelve to fifteen minutes ; skate, a trifling time longer ; adding a drop of vinegar in the water to any of the above fish is an improvement.

56. New way of lotting JFW*.— The addition of a few herbs and vegetables in the water gives a very nice flavour to the fish. Add, according to taste, a little sliced onions, thyme, bayleaf, winter savory, carrots, celery, clove, mace, using whichever of these ingredients you can procure ; it greatly improves skate, fresh haddocks, gurnet, &c. Fresh- water fish, which have no particular flavour, are preferable done thus, with the addition of a little vinegar. Choose whatever sauces you please for any of the above fish, from the series at No. 411.

57. Salt Fish, Cod, Ling, and Cod- Sounds. — Soak two pounds of salt fish for six hours, if not previously soaked, or according to the cure ; put them in boiling water, in which somo parsnips have been previously boiled. Twenty minutes, if the tirih is thick, will be sufficient; and serve with egg-sauce No. 411. Proceed the same with cod-sounds.

Fresh-water Fish.— These are not much esteemed amongst ihe many, although some are excellent eating, and much in lya on the continent.

58. Tench and perch must be well scaled and cleaned, and pul mto the pan with a pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt, one onion, slir^'3, three sprigs of thyme, bay-leaf, pepper, parley,

24 PISH IN TIN PAN IN OVEN.

celery, all in proportion ; a wine-glass of vinegar. H they welg% one pound boil for half an hour, according to size. Serve witli any fish-sauce.

59. Eels may be done as above, with a little scraped horse- radish, and served with parsley and butter. Pike and carp may be boiled in the same way. If no herbs or vegetables, boil in plain salt and water ; but the above is a great improvement.

Fish in Oven, in Tin Dish. — A long square tin dish, like those for baking, may be used for this excellent mode of cooking fish, by which all the flavour and succulence of it is preserved. They may be had of all sizes, and at a very trifling expense.

60. Lesson 1. — Scale and clean a sole, dry it well, chop up half an ounce of onions rather small, put in the dish one ounce of either butter, dripping, or oil, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and onions at the bottom ; lay the sole over, season with pepper and salt ; mix the remainder of the chopped onions and parsley with some bread crumbs, and cover the sole with them, adding three or four pieces of butter or fat over, and a wineglassful of either wine, ale, or broth, or even water underneath ; put the dish in the oven or before the fire until done : a large sole will take about an hour. In case the oven is not hot enough to brown the top, put the shovel in the fire until it is red-hot, and hold over it. Serve in the tin. The oven is far better than the front of a fire.

Plaice may be done the same way, or cut in slices, only it takes longer doing.

61. WJdting are done the same way, but require a sharp oven, or they will turn watery. Weaver may be done in the same manner.

Conger Eels. — Cut four slices, half an inch thick, dry well, dip each piece into flour, and proceed precisely as for soles. A little grated horseradish and a little spice will vary the flavour.

62. Lesson 2. — Codfish, Halibut, Ling, Hake, Sturgeon, and Haddock may be done in the same way; and a little stuffing, Nc. 459, may be used for every one of them, especially cod-live* ^tailing.

63. Lesson 3. — The remains of boiled fish may always be done in this way. A few spoonfuls of melted butter added over

FISH IN TIN PAN IN OVEN. 2"

my of the above fish, before the bread crumbs, makes a change ;t eats more delicate, and gives very little more trouble.

64. Another Way. — Place any of the above fish in the dish, omitting the onions, if not liked ; add a few herbs or chopped mushrooms instead ; and make the following —

65. Sauce. — Put in a pan a quarter of a pound of flour, moisten with a pint and a half of milk or skim-milk, add three parts of a teaspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, mix all smooth, add a little mixed spice, or two cloves, grated nutmeg, one onion cut in four, set on the fire, stir continually, and boil twenty minutes ; it must be rather thick ; take out the onions and cloves, add to the sauce four ounces of butter, mix it well, pour over the fish, and bake as above : a little parsley, chopped, and thrown over before sending tc table, improves the appearance, and a little grated cheese thrown over previous to placing in the oven, gives a nice yellow look, and this will be much liked. The sauce can be made and kept for some days without spoiling. This sauce is nice with every kind of white fish. Bread-crumb may be put over the sauce before cooking. The remains of previously cooked fish may be dressed in this way.

66. Halibut, Conger, Ilahe, and Ling {receipt for four pounds offish). — Season either of the above rather strong with two teaspoonfuls of salt, half the same of pepper, the same of ground ginger, and two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions. Put two ounces of fat in a deep tin pan, lay the fish on it, mix two ounces of flour with a pint of milk ; when smooth pour over the fish, bake for an hour, and serve.

67. Plaice and large Gurnets. — The flesh cut from the bone may be done as above. They all require to be well done. Any of the above dishes may be surrounded by a border of either mashed potatoes or boiled rice.

68. In Oven. — Small Fish. — Put in a deep pan four tea- spoonfuls of onions chopped, half a pint of melted butter, a gill of vinegar ; lay over six pounds of any common fish, season over with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper ; place it in the wen for twenty minutes, then turn it, baste it with the sauce How and then ; dish it up, and pour sauce over, or serve in the pan ; if the sauce should be too thin, boil on the fire till it gets of a thickish substance.

26 FISH IN FRYING-PAN*

69. Mackerel in Pie Dish. — Open two or three mackerel on the back, cut off the tail and head, rub the inside and outside frith salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; mix in a bason half % fint of melted butter, No. 410, add to it a teaspoonful of chopped fennel and parsley, and a tablespoonful of vinegar ; put the fish in the dish, pour the sauce over, and well bread-crumb it ; put it in the oven for half an hour or more, and serve. The roe ma)' be left in the fish, or chopped up and mixed with the sauce. Balls of cod-liver may be added.

70. Fielded Mackerel, Plain Way. — Cut two onions in thin slices, mix with salt and pepper and a little mixed spice or peppercorn ; then have four mackerel ready, with the gills and gut removed, but not cut ; put a little of the onions inside, and rub the outside with them ; and then rub them with flour, put them in the dish, put in the remainder of the onions, add half a pint of vinegar and a gill of water ; bake in a slow oven for one hour ; use cold. They will keep a long time.

71. Fresh Herrings, Sprats, and Smelts may all be done the same way, only they require less time to bake. Any other kind of fish, if in small pieces, may be done this way, and is excellent in summer with salad. The flavour or the pickling may be im- proved by adding three cloves, two blades of mace, some pepper- corns, a little garlic, and some sweet-herbs, according to taste.

FEIED FISH.

The great art in frying fish is, to have it free from grease, and in that state it is one of the most delicate descriptions of food that can be given to the invalid, and at the same time the most nourish- ing. The sudden immersion in the fat solidifies the albumen in the flesh of the fish, and renders it easy of digestion; the coating of bread- crumbs prevents the fat penetrating into the fish, and when eaten hy the invalid, the skin should be removed, and only the white flesh partaken cf.

The great point is to have plenty of fat in the pan, for it is no'j wasted, far from it. If it is kept at a proper degree of heat, in th» same pan a sole may be fried, and at the same time an apple iritter neither will taste of the other, proving that the high degree of he?u in the fat arwnts the flavour of the object immersed in it escaping.

FISH IN FRYING-PAN. 27

72. Fried Sole. — Put a pound or two of fat into a deep frying-pan ; whilst it is getting hot, take a sole, of course cleaned, cut off the fins and tail, wipe it with a cloth, egg it, and ccvel with bread-crumbs all over, shake off the loose crumbs, and press it, and lay the sole in the fat, the white part, or belly, downwards ; the fat must be at a proper heat, which is ascer- tained by throwing a pinch of crumb into it; if it hisses, it is ready i if it burns, it is over-done ; if of a nice colour it will do. Turn it once while doing. A middle-sized sole will take ten minutes. Take it out, place it on a cloth ; if any fat is on it, it will come off. Dish it on a napkin, on which it hardly ought to show a spot of grease. This receipt is applicable to all kinds of fish j but large round fish should not be fried whole, only the fillets, or thin slices. Whitings may be fried whole, like sole, and will take about ten minutes ; flounders, about five or six minutes ; smelts, gudgeons, four or five minutes. The last should be fried as few as possible at a time, and served crisp.

73. Large soles, plaice, cod, halibut, conger eels, ling, hake, weaver, should all be fried in fillets, or thin slices ; the sole should be cut down the back bone ; then run the knife under the flesh, close to the bone, and cut it off; thus each sole will make four fillets ; or they may be cut across in pieces of three inches, with the bone in,

74. Plaice do in the same way, cut in pieces one inch wide. Cod should be filleted lengthways, or in slices. Hake, haddock, and gurnet, the same ; halibut, ling, and conger eel, in very thin slices, that is, not more than half an inch thick. Salt should be sprinkled over them half an hour previous. All these should be egged and bread-crumbed, as described in sole. All fish cooked in this way are excellent cold, as a salad, in summer. Slices should be broken, or cut, for about a pound of fish, and put into a bowl, with two tablcspoonfuls of vinegar, four of oil, half do. of chopped parsley, half a teaspoon ful of salt, quarter do. of pepper. Toss it up well, that it may mix; it is very cooling, and makes a light supper. A little fresh salad, as lettuce, endive, &c., makes it still more so. Slices of cooked potatoes, lentils, and haricots, may be introduced.

28 FISH IN FKl'IKG-PAH.

75. Fried Fish, Jewish Fashion.

This is another excellent way of frying fish, which is constantly is use by the children of Israel, and I cannot recommend it too highly; so much so, that various kinds of fish which many people despise, are excellent cooked by this process; in eating them many persons are deceived, and would suppose them to be the most expensive offish. The process is at once simple, effective, and economical ; not that I would recommend it for invalids, as the process imbibes some of the fat, which, however palatable, would not do for the dyspeptic or in- valid.

76. Proceed thus : — Cut one or two pounds of halibut in one piece, lay it in a dish, cover the top with a little salt, put some water in the dish, but not to cover the fish ; let it remain thus for one hour. The water being below, causes the salt to pene- trate into the fish. Take it out and dry it ; cut out the bone, and the fins off; it is then in two pieces. Lay the pieces on the side, and divide them into slices half an inch thick ; put into a frying pan, with a quarter of a pound of fat, lard, or dripping (the Jews use oil) ; then put two ounces of flour into a soup-plate, or basin, which mix with water, to form a smooth batter, not too thick. Dip the fish in it, that the pieces are well covered j then have the fat, not too hot, put the pieces in it, and fry till a nice colour, turning them over. When done, take it out with a slice, let it drain, dish up, and serve. Any kind of sauce that is liked may be used with it ; but plain, with a little salt and lemon, is excellent. This fish is often only three- pence to fourpence per pound; it containing but little bone renders it very economical. It is excellent cold, and can be eaten with oil, vinegar, and cucumbers, in summer time, and is exceedingly cooling. An egg is an improvement in the batter.

The same fish as before mentioned as fit for frying, may be fried in this manner. Eels are excellent done so ; the batter absorbs the oil which is in them.

Flounders may also be done in this way. A little salt should be sprinkled over before serving.

77. In some Jewish families all this kind of fish is fried in oil, and dipped in batter, as described above. In some families they dip the fish first in flour, and then in egg, and fry in oil. This plan is superior to that fried in fat or dripping, but more espensivs,

VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON POT. 29

Irtany of the above-mentioned families have stated days ca which they fry, or stew their fish, which will keep good several days in summer, and I may almost say, weeks in winter ; and being generally eaten cold, it saves them a deal of cooking. Still, I must say that there is nothing like a hot dinner,

THE THREE-LEGGED IRON POT.

INTRODUCTION.

Dearest Friend, — You are aware that every cottage throughout the land has a peculiarity iu cookery and cooking utensils, which nothing can alter. One of them has a great claim on our gratitude, which neither time nor place can erase. AVar, famine, epidemic, revolutions, which have from time to time shaken the foundation of mighty empires, has not caused a wrinkle to appear on his nobis brow even in this miraculous age of discovery, which has created railways, steam, electricity, photography, and by the last powerful agent we are actually enabled to take the strongest fortifications without bloodshed.

Not eveu one of the miracles of the nineteenth century has affected his noble position one jot : he is a posterity iu himself, and no throne ever has been, or ever will be, stronger than his.

In winter, when all nature is desolate, when hoary Frost spreads his white mantle over the myriads of defunct flowers, then this homely king rallies round him his subjects, to entertain, comfort, and feed them, and make them happy, even when nature has almost refused to humanity her powerful service. This mighty monarch, Eloise, is no other than the three-legged iron pot, who has done such good service for so many generations, and will continue to do so if properly treated by his subjects.

So much for his moral virtues ; but let us see what he has been doing, and if we can make him do anything more, and that in ac- cordance with the enlightenment of the nineteenth century. You will perhaps say, that it is dangerou? to try to make any change in a government so well established. Not at all ; my object is not to mterfere with his noble position, and deprive him of his rights. On the contrary, I only wish to enrich his kingdom, which I am sure no Sensihle monarch can object to.

Now for the immortal Pot-luclc. All the?9 receipts are for one sop^ttininar two gallons.

SO VAIUOUS DISHES IN THE IilOX TOT.

78. Sad Beef. — Put in a piece of six pounds, add four quarts of cold water ; boil gently for three hours. One hour before serving, wash clean, and cut the roots away of two cabbages, which cat up in fbui pieces, and put in the pot with the meat. When done, drain the cabbage, and place round the beef on the dish, and serve. Leave the broth or liquor from the meat on the fire, put in two pounds of split peas, a little pepper and brown sugar ; boil slowly till done, and put by, uncovered, for next day, to drink with the cold meat. If more salt and pepper is required, add it : if, on the contrary, it should be too salt, add more water and a pound of potatoes. Or skim-milk may be added, and about one pound o'-' toasted bread, cut into dice, and put in the soup when serving ; or half a pound of flour, mixed with a pint of water. Every part of salted beef may be boiled thus, using about four ounces of vegetables to every pound of meat, instead of cabbage. Turnip-tops, brocoli- sprouts, green kale, carrots, turnips, Swedes, parsnips, &c. &c, may be used. Suet dumpling may be served with it.

The pieces of beef generally salted are the brisket, edge bone, round, flank, skirt. The ribs, when salted, are very fine, and much more economical than when roasted. This receipt if adopted for a farm-house; but two pounds of beef, and the other things in proportion to be used for a small family. Eice may be used instead of peas.

79. Salt Porlc. — Put four pounds of salt pork, either leg, loin, head, belly, or feet, into the pot with six quarts of water, and one pound of split peas. In one hour add four greens, cut small, or turnip-tops, leeks, parsnips, &c. &c., placed in a net, and boiled in the pot. When done, take them out, and keep warm. Mix half a pound of Hour with one pint of water, and put in the pot, and stir it round. Boil for ten minutes, and serve the meat and soup separate, and vegetables round the meat. Pieces of bacon, knuckles of ham, cooked in the same way, ara very nice, only they will take rather longer boiling. A tea- spoonful of pepper may be added.

You will perceive, my friend, that I have already opened a largi fiuld for our eld hero, adding in a few lines about tvvsnty new aiibjeeis in the shape of receipts to his kingdom.

80. Veal. — The flesh of the calf being of that liyUt nature,

VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON TOT. SI

requires more the process of roasting, or stewing, than of boiling, except for the purpose of making broth, for which purpose it is superior to any other kind of meat. The only part which is usually done so, is the knuckle, and if cooked in the following way, is not tin expensive dish : — Get a knuckle of veal and a small knuckle of ham, weighing together about six pounds. Or in the absence of the ham, or bacon, two pounds of the belly of pork. Put this in the pot, and fill up with six quarts of water and four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, cut in dice, two onions and two turnips. Boil gently for three hours, take out the meat and serve with mashed turnips, or potatoes. Plain, or parsley and butter over. The liquor boiled up with a pound of ground rice, mixed in a quart of cold water. Put in and boil for half an hour, and save for the next day's use. When boiled for next day, add any remains of the veal, cut small, and put in it, with a little milk, if handy. Whole rice, or peas, may be used. Four Swedish turnips may be boiled with the veal, and eaten with it, mashed up with pepper, salt, and butter. Vege- tables may be omitted when scarce.

81. Mutton. — The leg, neck, breast, head, and feet, are most often boiled; sometimes the shoulder, when not too fat, is boiled, smothered in onions. Whichever joint it is, the pot must be filled with water, to which six teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper have been added. Put in the joint and ten peeled turnips. When either joint is done, take it out, and serve the turnips round. Parsley and butter, capers, or chopped gherkins, mixed with melted butter, may be served with boiled mutton.

Save the liquor for the next day, add to it half a pound of Scotch barley and a pound of any vegetables that may be in season. Boil for one hour, and serve with toasted bread. Or .nstead of barley, two pounds of potatoes, sliced, and boiled with the vegetables, make a nice soup. For every pound of this joint, let it cook fifteen minutes.

82. Ham. — A ham of about fourteen pounds will take about four hours, and ought to be boiled in a three-g;ilion pot. Put in the ham, and fill up with water : skim off the scum as it rises; if wanted to be eaten cold, allow it to get cold in tiie pot. If it is an old ham, it should be soaked for twelve hours previously. Some carrots, turnips, and other vegetables, may

3^ ON PRESERVING HAMS AND BACON.

be boiled, with also a bunch of sweet herbs, which will improve the flavour of the ham. If the liquor is used for soup a couple of cow heels may be boiled with it, which may be eaten separately, or cut up in the soup, which should be strained. Or. fry ten onions, sliced, until nearly brown ; add to them half a pound of flour, stir well in, then add some of the liquor from the ham, until it is rather thick j put into a tureen, and pour moiv over it, and serve with slices of bread. Or instead of onions* use cabbage or leeks.

As many cottagers kill their own pigs, and cure the hams and bacon, and often boil only half the ham at a time, the knuckle part should be boiled last, and the yellow fat, if any on it, should be cut awTay.

IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS ON CURING HAMS AND BACON.

Tons of ham and bacon are yearly wasted throughout the country for want of proper attention and judgment, in allowing the fat to get rancid. Instead of hanging them up, a3 is the custom, to a low ceiling, in every cottage or farmer's kitchen, the consequence ot which is, that the continual heat turns the fat and flesh of such a quad- ruped as dry as a mummy, while, by the following simple rules, they would keep equally as long without undergoing this antique Egyptian process.

To prove vo you the truth of my remarks — about six months ago. I was on a visit to our excellent friend, William Tucker, Esq., of Coriton Park, near Axminster, Devon, when all the neighbourhood was searched to get a couple of home-cured country hams ; however, no such thing was to be found ; every one of them bought were dried to chips. The fat of the first one we operated on, when sawn in two, (for we could not cut it in the ordinary way,) was of a blackish yellow, and the meat of the same colour as rotten wood, only much harder. Being anxious to see the person who had so effectively " preserved" this ham, a very natty, clean old woman was brought to me; and on showing her the bone, and asking her for the receipt, she said she did not know how it was done, but her son Thomas did, and she knew he would be glad to give me the receipt, to which proposition I strongly objected, at the same time writing down the following receipt, which she said her son would doubtless follow.

After you have pickled your ham or bacon for either winter or jummer use, dry the moisture with a cloth, and haw; it in your

VABIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT. 33

kitchen for about three weeks, or until the outside begins to crystal- lize ; then remove it to your dairy, or any other dampish place, for a few days; then place it in your kitchen again, and so on, backwards and forwards, three or four times, till perfectly dry, and quite sound; if any part should happen to get yellow and rancid, scrape it off, rubbing the spot with a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour; but be sure you don't keep it eighteen months, as it appears the old woman's son did; so that, with all the indulgence of nature, who allows us to preserve meat, by means of pickling it, for some con- siderable time, yet common sense tells us, that it will not last for ever. Ham, when well cured by experienced hands, can be kept good for several years. The fault I before mentioned, exists in every county, not excepting Westmoreland and Yorkshire, which two latter, being ham counties, of course the evil does not run to so great an extent. I daresay, Eloise, you will fancy this country conversation rather too long to be pleasant. You may be right, as for as its value as reading for the drawing-room goes, but let me tell you again, that if these simple plans were adopted, more than one hundred thousand tons of meat would be saved throughout the kingdom yearly, and made to feed man rather than wasted as it is at present.

LAMB.

I think I ought not to mention this innocent and playful little animal, but on second consideration, and remembering that King Alfred once sought shelter in a cottage, and it being possible that from accident, or some other cause, that a cottager might find him- self unexpectedly honoured by a guest, to whom he would like to give a delicacy, which could not be done better in the elaborate kitchens of the most wealthy, than in the old iron pot of the most humble abode.

It is rare that lamb is partaken of by the labourer, as he requires more strengthening nourishment for his hard-looking frame, which can digest everything eatable, without the aid of medical science. These delicacies are left to those who would give a great deal if they could possess the good appetite and the organic mastication of a labouring man.

83. Boiled Leg of Lamb. — Put six quarts of water into the pot, with six teaspoonfuls of salt ; when boiling put in the lamb, boil slowly for one hour ; remove the scum as it rises ; serve it with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter, or caper sauce ; boiled turnips or spinach. Tin Voth may be made into soup tlie same as the mutton.

84 Boiled Babbit. — S\ *tT a rabbit as No. 456; put in pot ten

34 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.

or twelve large onions, with four quarts of water ; bcil them till tender, then add the rabbit, simmering slowly for one hour, if large; dish it up, keeping it warm ; take out the onions, chop them, and put into a pan or the pot with two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of pepper, four of flour ; mix all well to form a puree, add a pint of milk, boil twenty minutes, stirring now and then ; pour over the rabbit and serve ; little pieces of pickled pork boiled with it is an improvement. Use the broth as above.

85. Our Christmas Dinner — Small Boiled Turlccy. — Puf into the pot four quarts of water, three teaspoon fuls of salt, one of pepper, have the turkey ready stuffed, as No. 456; whe& the water boils, put in the turkey, and four pieces of salt pork or bacon, of about half a pound each, or whole, if you prefer it; also add half a pound of onions, one of white celery, six peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs; boil slowly for one hour and a half, mix three ounces of flour with two ounces of butter; melt it in a small pan, add a pint of the liquor from the pot, and half a pint of milk, the onions and celery taken out of the pot, and cut up and added to it; boil for twenty minutes, until it is thickish ; serve the turkey on a dish, die bacon separate, and pour the sauce over the bird.

A turkey done in this way is delicious. With the liquor, in which you may add a little colouring, a vermicelli, rice, or clear vegetable soup can be made ; skim off the fat, and serve.

The above with a plum pudding boiled the day before, and rewarmed in boiling water in the pot whilst eating the soup and turkey, and the addition of potatoes, baked in the embers, under the grate, is a very excellent dinner, and can all be done with the black pot.

Fords and Chickens may be done the same way, giving onlj half-an-hour for chickens, and three quarters for fowls.

80. A cheap Tripe Dinner. — Sometimes the cuttings of tripe, or pig's chitterlings, or even a cow-heel, can be had very cheap, in which case they should be cut into square pieces ; peel eight good onions, and ten large potatoes, for every four pounds of the meat . lay some of the potatoes at the bottom of the pot, season with salt and pepper, then some of the tripe, then onions and potatoes until all is in ; then mix a quarter of a pound of flour with three quarts of water ; mix smooth, and boil gently for two hours ;

VARIOUS DISHES IN TIITC BLACK POT. 35

scum and serve. This will make enough food for a family of twelve, and cost about one shilling and sixpence.

87. Calve s Head and Feet. — If by any chance either of these articles are to be bought cheap, which is sometimes the case in London or -any market town, cut the head open, take out the brains, put it in the pot with six teaspoonfuls ol Bait, two of pepper, four onions, parsley, and a little thyme ; put in six quarts of water, in which mix one quarter of a pound of flour ; being placed, set it to boil gently, skim it occasionally, boil three hours ; just before serving, add a wineglass of vinegar ; serve with parsley and butter, alone, or with the brains, cleaned and boiled in it ; sharp sauce, No. 420.

The feet may be boiled in the same way. The liquor makes an excellent soup for the next day, either thick or thin, and with or without vegetables, or puree of peas, carrots, turnips, &c, or mock turtle.

83. Sheep's Head and Feet. — Take two shceps* heads and cut the same as calf's head, and put in pot, with half a pound of pearl bailey, four spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two carrots, four onions, and four quarts of water; boil for about two hours, or until tender, and serve.

Four feet added to it improve the broth. The heads when cooked may be egged and bread- crumbed over, and then put in the oven to brown for fifteen to twenty minutes. Eat it either plain or with sharp sauce. Calves' head is very good done the same.

89. Curry Fish. — Put into the pot four onions and two apples, in thin slices, some bayleaf, thyme, or savory, with a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping, three tablespoonfuls of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, and fry for fifteen minutes ; then pour in three quarts of water and One pound of rice ; boil till tender ; acid one tablespoonful of curry-powder, mixed in a little water ; cut up six pounds of cheap fish the size of an egg ; add to the above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according to the kind of nsh. If salt fish is used, omit the salt. If no herbs, do without, but always use what you can get.

90. Savory Rice. — Take six pounds of bones, broken small} toil in eight guarts of water for three hours, having sdded threr

35 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.

tablespoon fuls of salt, a bunch of thyme, baylcaf, and savory, if any. When clone, pour it into an earthen pan, remove the bones; the fat will do for puddings; or put the fat or two ounces of dripping into the pot, with two onions cut thin, half a pound of either carrots, turnips, or celery, cut thin; two tea* spoonfuls of sugar ; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it continually ; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix well ; then pour over the stock that has come from the bones. Add one pound of rice previously washed ; boil till tender, and serve. This will be found both cheap and nutritious.

91. Rice Panada. — Boil one pound of rice in four quarts of water ; add one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and two table- spoonfuls of salt. Mix with some cold water one pound of flour or oatmeal, so that it forms a thin paste; stir in three teaspoonfuls of curry powder, add all to the rice, boil for twenty minutes, and serve. A quarter of a pound of butter or dripping may be added. Should it be preferred stveet, use a quarter of a pound of treacle instead of curry. This will make ten pounds of solid food, and is good either hot or cold.

92. Peas Panada. — Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, or pork, into small dice ; put it in the pot with two onions, sliced, or leeks : fry for ten minutes 5 keep stirring ; then add one and a quarter pound of split peas, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one gallon of water. Boil till it becomes a puree, or pulp ; then add sufficient oatmeal or flour to make it very thick; simmer twenty minutes; keep stirring it, and serve.

Indian meal may be used, but it must be soaked ; the husk, which floats, removed, boiled for two hours, and then added to it. If there are no onions, use some sweet herbs.

TJiis may be made sweet by omitting the bacon, and using a quarter of a pound of treacle, and when cold, may be cut to pieces, and given to children as food.

93. Cheese Stirabout. — Nearly fill the iron pot with water, throw in three table tablespoonsful of salt ; when boiling, throw in by degrees some Indian meal, — the quantity depends on the quality ; on an average, if the water is soft, one pound to every two quarts ; that would be four pounds. When well stirred, remove the husk with a spoon, which floats on the top. Then throw in one pound of strong cheese, broken in pieces, or grated

VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT. 37

Boil for twenty minutes, and serve. Or, put it on a greasy baking- tin, throw some more cheese on the top, put in the oven for twenty minutes, and serve. Or, allow it to get cold, cut iu pieces, and fry.

94. Indian Meal Toullenta. — Boil the meal as above (it must be very thick), without the cheese ; mind that it is stirred up a great deal, or it will catch to the bottom of the pot ; pour some into a baking-dish well greased ; cut some beef or pork, sausages, saveloys, or black puddings, into slices, and place them on it. Cover this over with some more meal from the pot ; bake for twenty minutes, and serve.

This is an excellent and cheap dish, and well worthy the attention of all classes, now that flour has become so expensive ; it is fit for the tables of the most wealthy, if a strong gravy is poured over it when served. This may be made sweet with either jam, treacle, or brown sugar.

95. Another Way. — For the above proportion, mince about two pounds of meat, as No. 156, or liver. Mix well, then let it get cold ; cut and fry anyhow you like ; of course omit saveloys and black-puddings when meat is used.

In France, ox-liver is used in soup, to flavour the broth, and many people eat it, fried or stewed. If it is in use in cooking in one country, why should we not give it a trial. The proverb says, " what is good for the goose is good for the gander," therefore what if good for our neighbours and allies cannot possibly be bad for us. An ox in France is uncommonly like an English one, and these quadrupeds are equally as particular in their selection of food as ours ; and if the calves', pigs', sheep's, and lambs' liver is fit for the tables of the wealthy, why should not that of the ox be deemed good for human food.

It is our duty, Eloise, in this work, to bring every wholesome kind of cheap food to the notice of the poor, so that with a little exertion, they may live, and live well, with the few pence they earn, instead oi living badly at times, and most extravagantly at others, and not to allow nourishing food to be wasted, as it is at present. In many parts, and even in Ireland, during the year of the famine, those who were starving would not partake of ox -liver. These are bought up in that country, put into casks, with salt, sent over to a sea-port in England ; they are then subjected to a cold pressure, by which the liquid is extracted, which is used for adulterating an

38 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE BLACK POT.

article in universal use; the remains are then dried in oven?, pounded, and sent back to Ireland to be made into snuff.

96. Stewed Ox Heart and Liver. — Wash the heart well; chop a few onions and sage, and mix with it a teaspoon ful of salt, and a quarter of pepper. Put it in the heart, and lay it in the pan with the top part downwards. Cut one pound of suet in quarter of a pound pieces ; also two pounds of ox liver, and a little bacon, if handy. Season with three tea- spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, four or five onions, three pounds of potatoes, and pour over three quarts of water. Place it in the oven for three hours, and it is done.

In this dish, dried pulse of any kind, previously soaked, may be used with advantage, such as the white harico bean, the dried Windsor bean, the lentil bean ; all of which may be had in the winter time in great abundance ; and it is to be regretted that there is not a large consumption in this country of pulse, as the crop does not rob the ground so much as the potato, and is con- siderably cheaper than flour. Dried yellow or green peas may be used.

They are a good article for a tradesman to keep in stock, as they do not deteriorate, like the potato, and only require to bo known, to be equally as much esteemed as that root.

FRENCH POT AU FEU.

(This may also be done in the iron saucepan, steivpan, or balcing-pan.)

I cannot expect that this truly national soup of France can be made to perfection, or done with so much care as in that country, therefore I have simplified it, and shall call it The French Cottage Pot au Feu, or French Soup.

97. Put a gallon of water in the pot, put four pounds of the buttock of beef, or shin, or five pounds of the thick part of the leg, ftiree tcaspoonfuls of salt, one cf pepper, four onions, four leeks cut in pieces, two carrots, and two good-sized turnips, three cloves, one 6nrnt onion, or three spoonfuls of colouring; set it on the fire; when neginning to scum, skim it, and place the pot on one side of the fire. Add now and then a drop of cold watei : it will make it clear. Boil £>ur hours. Bread sliced, put into the tureen, and pour the broth, with some of the vegetables, cv^r ; serve the meat separata, and the remaining vegetables round.

VARIOUS DISHES IN TTIE IKON SAUCEPAN. otf

If this simple receipt is well attended to, you will find it a very good soup and bouilli. If you run short of any of the vegetables, make it good with others. If no burnt onions or colouring, the soup will be white, instead of a sherry colour; but still it will be good. In France they always put in half a pound of ox-liver to every four pounds of meat. I am sure they are too good judges, over the water, to spoil their soup ; in fact, there the ox-liver costs as Jiucb as the meat — sixpence per pound — therefore it is not with a view oi Saving, but to make it better.

97a. French Ragout of Mutton. — Put in the pot a quarter of a pound of dripping : when hot, peel and cut twenty small turnips, or ten large ones, into pieces the size of a walnut ; put them into the fat, and fry until brownish. Take them out, then put into the fat a quarter of a pound of flour ; stir round until brown. You have prepared four pounds of scrag of mutton, cut in small pieces ; put them in, and stir round ; then add enough water to cover the meat ; stir until boiling. When the mutton is nearly done, which you will find by trying it with a fork, add the turnips ; season with three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, the same of brown sugar, and a little bit of scraped garlic, if handy. Any part of mutton may be used. Eagout of veal or lamb may be done in this manner.

The following receipts to be done in a middle-sized iron saucepan.

98. Stewed JEels. — Put into a saucepan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, half a pint of melted butter, No. 410, one tea- spoonful of anchovy sauce, one of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of colouring. Cut up one pound of eels in pieces two inches long, rub them in a little flour and salt, put them in the pan, and stew for half an hour, and serve with some toasted bread round. A Jittle ale or wine may be used instead of vinegar, and the sauce ihould be thick.

99. Stewed Eels. No. 2. — Cut them as above, dip in flour, and partly fry them in fat a few minutes, and stew them as above, ind serve with toast.

100. JEels Stewed White. No. 3. — Cut up one pound, as before ; put them in the pan with half a pint of milk and three- quarters of a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, half an onion, in slices, and some sprigs of parsley. Stew gently for twenty minutes ; mix one ounce of butter with half an ounce of flour,

40 VAKIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPA

put in your stewpan in small pieces, stir round gently, boil foi five minutes, or longer, if large, and serve. The juice of a lemon, or a little vinegar, is an improvement. Lampreys and weaver may be done the same.

101. Cod's Hard Hoe. — Tie a cod's roe in a cloth, place in a pan two quarts of water and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; put in the roe, boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as you require, put it in the dish, pour over parsley and butter, and serve. Or egg sauce, or plain, with a little butter and pepper. The remainder, when cold, may be cut into slices and semi- fried, as fish.

102. Cod's Sounds, Melt, and Frill. — Nothing is more de- licate than this dish. Boil thirty minutes in boiling salt and water. Dish it up, pour thick egg sauce over, or fennel sauce, or black butter, No. 425a. The fii'st-mentioned, if salted, rv*t be well soaked.

Truly, my dear Eloise, I cannot but return you my very be*o thanks for the incessant inquiries you make as to the state of my health.

You blame me in your last letter for having visited the small town <jf Castleford, as also the beautiful little village of Methway, while the cholera was raging in those places. Allow me to impress upon your mind that, first of all, I have no personal fear of the epidemic, and that I take a deal of interest in endeavouring to ascertain the cause, or partly so, of such an awful visitation, as my letter of Ihe 25th of March, which has appeared in the public press, will partly explain the cause of this calamity.* In that letter I ought to have included Leeds, Hull, and Bradford, those immense towns of thick fog, wealth, manufacturers, charming habitations, palaces, bad drainage, and real black — not sea, but — river, which, for want of proper drainage, if not attended to, will always subject those plates to such epidemics.

The working classes of the commercial districts of Yorkshire earn very good wages, though, at the same time, they work very hard; their ignorance in the science of cooking is deplorable, and, without boasting, Eloise I must say that I have been of some service to these same people, in improving the condition of their homes, as three parts of the wives of this hard-working class are utterly devoid of any knowledge of domestic economy. Cookery to them is almost un- known; but I must say they are willing to learn, and I hope this

* See end of the book*

VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. 41

work will be the means of terminating that which I have so pucces* fully begun.

Respecting my visiting prisons, hospitals, lunatic asylums, work- houses ; also the interior of mines, coalpits, &c. &c. ; and though I must admit that those localities do not show the brightest part oi' the mirror of life, still, you must not fancy that these people are all unhappy; on the contrary, they are as contented as I am, and not a day passes but what I teach them something in my way, at tlir same time learning many little things irom them, and I think you will own that my correspondence partakes more of a jovial than a morose nature.

Such is my opinion of that large class of society, termed the million, after nearly twelve months stay among them, throughout the united queendom.

IMPORTANT REMARKS ON COD-LIVER OIL.

Rut now to a very important culinary, and I think medical discovery, which I owe to my persevering visits to various public charities in the towns through which I passed. This happened at Hull, about three months ago, from which town, if you recollect, I forwarded you the drawing of the Station Hotel, where I was staying — I call it the Monument Hotel, being so large and beautiful. But to come back to the question ; one of the proprietors, Mr. Jordan, on my asking if I could visit the infirmary, kindly proposed to conduct me there, and introduce me to the governor, which was done to my entire satisfac- tion ; and I must say that the sick are not better attended to in any similar establishment I have visited in the country.

Being aware of the immense quantity of cod-lizer oil taken by delicate persons, now-a-days, and the great benefit derived from its use, I asked the medical officer present his opinion of its efficacy. u Nothing can be better," was his reply, " in many cases. But," said he, " many patients cannot take it, being of such an unpleasant taste, more especially children, and as we in this establishment use the second quality, from motives of economy, it is doubly unpleasant." I myself tasted some, and must say that I found it anything but relishing.

After bidding adieu to the doctor, I and my host left, and while returning to my hotel, T thought that something could be done to liter the present unpleasant way of administering it. Accordingly, Upon reaching home, I sent for the following: —

103. One pound of fresh cod-liver ; I then peeled and steamed two pounds of nice floury potatoes, then cut the liver in four pieces, placed it over the potatoes, and then steamed them, letting the oil from the liver fall on the potatoes; I then made some incisions in the Ever with a knife, to extract the remaining oil, afterwards dishing m*

42 VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN.

the liver, which was eaten with a little melted butter and anchovy 6auce. The potatoes were served up with a little salt and pepper. Both dishes were found extremely good.

The following is another way of extracting the oil of a cod's liver, fcdth the aid of that abundant article, rice.

104 Rice and Cod Liver. — Boil half a pound of rice in two quarts of water. When nearly done, remove three parts of the water ; then put over your rice a pound of cod's liver, cut in large dice. Put the saucepan in a slow oven for about thirty minutes, by which time it will be nicely cooked. Then take the liver out, which serve as above directed. Stir the rice with a fork, and serve it ; if allowed by a medical man, add a little salt and pepper. If no oven, cook the liver and rice on a very slow fire, for otherwise it would burn, and be unwholesome as food.

Of course you can easily see what a blessing such diet as this must be to a person incapable of taking the oil by itself, as, by mixing it with the food, it entirely loses that rancid quality for which it is proverbial.

105. Tapioca and Cod Liver. — Boil a quarter of a pound of tapioca till tender in two quarts of water ; drain it in a cullender, then put it back in the pan ; season with a little salt and pepper, add half a pint of milk, put over one pound of fresh cod liver, cut in eight pieces. Set }Tour pan near the fire to simmer slowly for half an hour, or a little more, till your liver is quite cooked. Press on it with a spoon, so as to get as much oil into the tapioca as possible. After taking away the liver, mix the tapioca. If too thick, add a little milk, then boil it a few minutes ; stir round, add a little salt and pepper, and serve. If you have a slow oven, use it in preference to the fire; but if you are without an oven, here is another good way of cooking it :

106. Put three inches depth of water in a largish pan ; then fwt the pan containing the tapioca in the above-mentioned pan ; let it simmer till quite done. It will take about an hour. By adopting this plan, all fear of burning is obviated; afterwards remove the liver, which serve as at No. 103.

107. Sago, or semolina, may be done the same way, and by adding an egg, it will make a delicate pudding; or by cutting the liver in small dice, you may add it to your pudding, putting •n a little more milk to make it moist; then add a couple more

VARIOUS DISHES 1^ THE IRON SAUCEPAN. 43

Qgg8, well beaten, and mix ; putting it in a basin, previously wel* outtered; then let it simmer in a stewpan for half an hour, ot till set j then turn it out on a dish ; sauce with a little plain melted butter, anchovy, or parsley and butter.

A little stringent food, such as the above, will be found very refreshing, even to persons in good health.

108. Rice may be also turned to good account; and I do not see why, after having taken the liver out, and adding four tea- spoonfuls of sugar, t'.vo eggs, one ounce of butter, and a little lemon peel, it would not make a very good sweet pudding. Pour over it, when done, a little melted butter with a spoonful 01 sugar, some lemon juice, or wine; or treacle, for children.

109. Cod Roe and Cod Liver. — Buy a cod's liver and roe, cut open the skin which surrounds it ; put the eggs in a basin, pour water over them, mashing them with your hand, to separate them, throwing away the water ; add half a pound of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper ; let them soak all night, afterwards washing them well in two or three waters, leaving about a gill at the bottom ; then put about two pounds of cod liver over it, cut in six or eight pieces, putting the stewpan either on a very slow fire, or in an oven, for one hour ; then take out the liver, which serve as usual. Add about a gill of melted butter in the roe, when it will be ready.

110. Or for any one in health four hard-boiled eggs, chopped, may be added, or three raw ones instead, and make a pudding of it ; pour it in, steam it in water till well set, then turn it out, and sauce over with any fish sauce you like. The hard roe of any fish may be dressed like this, especially the roe of sturgeons.

CARTHUSIAN OF MEAT AND VEGETABLES.

You will perhaps be surprised at the name I have given to this curious mixture of vegetable produce, but you will immediately per-

teive that I have taken it from those well known monks who took fows to partake of no animal food, something like our strict vege- tarians of the present day ; but those jolly old dogs in former day* were obliged, at times, to break their vow ; a3, however, it could nof be done openly, they were obliged to mask the object cooked in covering of vegetables, and thus cheated their oath and their own conscience.

44 VARIOUS DISHES IN TgE IRON SAUCEPAN.

Carthusian, or Chartreuse, in French cookery, means any article oi

food, such .is meat, game, pr poultry, so surrounded by vegetables, that even a vegetarian would be deceived with its appearance, while sitting at dinner, and would not find out his mistake until helped with soma of the dishes.

111. 1st Lesson. — If in winter, cut cross ways, in four, i large savoy cabbage, or two small ones ; take off a few of the outside green leaves ; wash the cabbage well, then put on the fire either an iron pot, or a three-legged black pot ; put in about three quarts of water; when boiling, add your cabbage, boil them for ten minutes, or a little longer, then drain thorn in a cullender or cloth, pressing out the water; cut away the stalk from each piece, then chop your cabbage, though not too fine, letting it weigh about two pounds ; when thus prepared, which will be our proportion of vegetable to one pound of meat ; previous to chopping them upon the board, season with one tea- spoonful of salt, that is, if salt meat be used ; two ditto if the meat be fresh ; one teaspoonful of pepper at all times.

Suppose we select for this, our first lesson, three middling- sized pigs' tongues. You have put them to boil with your cabbage, then cut them through lengthways, then place at the bottom of your pan about an inch deep of cabbage, and half an inch round the inside of the pan, placing your meat in the centre, thus making the meat invisible to the eye when turned out of the pot ; when filled, add a quarter of a pound of butter or dripping, two wineglasses of vinegar, if English, or one, if French, one gill of water ; set it on a brick, placed in the oven, for two hours ; then open your pan, and place over your cabbage a tea saucer ; press out all the gravy in a cup, pass a knife round your pot, then put a dish over the mouth inside downwards, turn the pot or basin upside down, when your Carthusian will turn out like a pudding : pour the gravy or bread crumb sauce over, and serve.

112. Znd Lesson, — The above may be done in pudding- basins, or in deep oval pie-dishes, and either baked slowly as above, or steamed as puddings, but as there will be no cover to it, put over a cover of pudding-paste (see No. 319) % fix oyer as for pies or puddings, making several small holes in the paste, and only putting half the moisture in. When done, remove the paste, which put on the dish you intend to serve it in ; press out the

VARIOUS DISHES IN THE IRON SAUCEPAN. 45

gravy, turn your carthusian out on the paste, already laid on the dish ; then proceed with the gravy as above described ; red cabbage is also very good, but requires double the quantity of vinegar, and more pepper; proceed the same; they require boiling in water about thirty minutes, if at all large, and rather old, as they are at Christmas.

113. 3rd and General Lesson. — Having given you the base or foundation in the above receipts on animal food, I will now in a few words describe the extraordinary variations that can be made with this favourite dish of the best judges of good cheer, —viz., the monastic fraternity of olden times.

Instead of the above, you may use pig's feet, cheek, pickled pork, bacon, ham, liver of all kinds, previously fried, or partly so, sausages, black-pudding, or salt beef, previously boiled and cut in slices, or any part of fresh meat previously roasted, any remains of poultry or game may be done the same by cutting them in slices ; if, however, they have not been previously rooked, they will take two hours instead of one. Pigeons, partridges, and all kinds of small birds, may be put in rows, only they should be larded or stuffed previously.

This will give you an idea of the various ways in which this dish can be made, as far as animal food goes.

The following will, by omitting the meat, be applicable for vegetarians.

VEGETABLE PUDDING.

114. 4<th and General Lesson for the Use of the Vegetarian. •—You must observe, Eloise, that the above receipts are all made with cabbage only. I have made them so, because, while travelling last winter, I found that every cottager grew cabbage, while no other vegetable was to be seen in his garden ; but now that summer is here, I will give you the receipts in the way the monks used to make them ; and, mind, they were all good cooks in those days. They always had a foundation of cabbage or greens, or some kind of Brussels sprouts, one pound of either of the above done as in the first receipt ; then they added a pound of either boiled carrots, turnips, parsnips, beet- 70ots, artichokes, potatoes, leeks, celery, or onions; boil the pound of whatever you choose from the above till tender ; chop

46 REMARKS ON THE FOOD OP TIIE POOP,.

it with your cabbage ; season, and proceed as with cabbage only. Sprue-grass, cut small, or peas, may also be boiled and mixed cut not chopped ; a little sugar is an improvement to vegetables* as it varies the flavour ; use any aromatic herbs and spice you choose, but always in proportion.

You may also, for a change, pour either a little white or brown sauce over (see sauces), but observe that the vegetables must always be kept firm enough to turn out as a pudding ; either serve in a pan: or, to save trouble, turn the whole into a tureen, or in a large dish, that is, if for a large family, but the proper way is as first described. In fact, there is no end to the ingenuity which may be displayed in the variation of this dish ; and to the cottager, with his small plot of garden-ground, wherein he can produce sufficient vegetables for his family, it is one of great economy, besides being exceedingly conducive to health at all times.

GENERAL IGNORANCE OF THE POOR IN COOKING.

Ox cheeks may be bought at present, cut from the bone, and very fresh, at about twopence-halfpenny to threepence per pound, in London. It is the most gelatinous food which the ox produces, and contains a large amount of nourishment, as I have already mentioned to you. The only drawback there is to it is the length of time it requires to cook, and the general way in which it is done, being in many cases prejudicial to its use. Frequently on my visits to the abodes of the poor, while in London last winter, I have often seen this article of food completely spoiled. On one occasion, I asked an old lady how she cooked it. " Sure enough/' said she, " by fire." " But, my dear woman," I inquired, " how long do you cook it ?" " Ah !" she replied, " sometimes as long as an horn*, and boiling like the very deuce all the time, till the water will not stand it any longer." "And pray," I asked, " what do you do with the water?" "Faith, there is no water left, but only black muck at the bottom of the pot, which I throw away," was her reply.

Therefore I am always of the same opinion, dearest Eloise, as regards our long talked of scheme of opening a national school to teach the poor how to cook their food, and make the most of it Some of the money spent on our new palace prisons would be muck better employed for this purpose, and would ultimately decrease the parish rates.

But I am digressing from the conversation I had with this old dame. When I found she was so ignorant, I asked her if I should

rftsAAKKS ON THE FOOD OF THE POOK. 47

come and teach her how to cook, properly, an ox cheek, " No, faith," said she, " I have no money to throw away, not even enough to buy another." Sanguine as I always am upon my favourite theme, I offered to bring one with me, as a present, the following day, and gave her sixpence to buy some sand to clean her iron pot, which I found done on my arrival the following day; she having also purchased two pennyworth of coals out of the money. I then produced the ox cheek, and put it into the pot with four quarts of cold water, and four teaspoonfuls of salt, and some leaves of celery, which articles were given to her by a neighbouring greengrocer. Her fire was made up, and the pot was placed on it, until boiling, and then removed to the side of it, and skimmed. There I left it, and went round to pay my other visits.

At the end of three hours I returned, and, she having a large basin in the room, I put some crusts of bread in it, and poured the liquid from the pot into it, and the meat I placed on a dish, and sat down with the old dame, serving the soup out into cups with a beer jug, having nothing better, and, to her great surprise, cut the cheek easily with a very bad knife, it being so tender. After tasting it, and finding it very good, she said she would show her neighbours how to do it. I told her that, if she would do so, I would give her more like receipts, when she exclaimed, " Bless you, ma'am, do; I will do them as well as you, now I have seen you do it." In anticipation of sending them to her the next day, I was about to retire, wishing her goodbye. " Lor', ma'am," said she, '•' you would not go without taking a drop of the ' crature.' " To my astonishment, a small bottle was brought out of her pocket, and offered to me. From its strange smell, I was induced to taste it, and I feel confident, if it had been analyzed by the " Lancet," it would have proved to be real Hue ruin, composed, as it was, of a mixture of mtriol, &c.

This opened to me the secret of the emaciated looks of the thou- sands of the inhabitants of these back alleys, and I could then account for the remainder of my change out of the sixpence. I, however, sent her the following receipts, of course omitting her favourite seasoning — gin.

Having sent her the receipts, as promised, on reconsideration, it recurred to me that the old lady might not be able to read. I was not mistaken, for on calling upon her, I found six elderly matrons and an old man holding council together, and trying to make out the writing. The latter was just sending for his grandson, who, he said, was a scholar, having been three months at a Sunday-school. My arrival set all to rights, at the same time it frightened three of tho council away ; but I begged the others to stop, and hear the receipts read, which fhev accordingly did, afterwards giving several copies away.

48 THE GRIDIRON AND FRYING-PAN.

.115, 1st Lesson. — Rub an ox cheek (middle size, or half a large one) with four teaspoon! uls of salt and one of pepper ; put it into the iron pot, with four quarts of cold water ; set it on the fire to boil ; remove it then to the side, and simmer gently for three hours after it begins to boil. Skim off the fat, which will do for puddings, and, at the expiration of the time, nearly three quarts of very strong gravy, in addition to the meat properly done and tender, will be found in the pot. A gill of colouring is an im- provement to the look of the broth. A head of celery, or some leaves of it, or onions, &c, may be added in boiling. Put the head on a dish, and serve the soup separately, with bread in it.

116. 2nd Lesson. — Or any small quantity of mixed vegetables may be used. They should all be cut into dice, and not peeled, but well cleaned, with the exception of the dried skin of the onion. One pound of rice, at the cost of twopence-halfpenny, when added, is a great improvement; or half-a-pint of split peas, or barley, or a pint of white haricot beans, or a pint of Indian meal soaked the over-night, or a little flour to make the gravy or broth thick. It may be varied in several ways ; but the chief point is, when once boiled, simmer slowly till tender, which you may ascertain by piercing it with a fork ; if it sticks to it, it is not sufficiently done. Sheep and lamb's head may be done the same way, but will only take one quarter ol the time ; season accordingly.

This receipt is applicable to all kinds of hard meat.

THE GRIDIRON AND FRYING-PAN.

The Results qj their Rivalry in Domestic CooTcery.

Your favourite utensil, the frying-pan, Eloise, is, without doubt, the most useful of all kitchen implements, and like a good-natured servant, is often imposed upon, and obliged to do all the work, while its companion, the gridiron, is quietly reposing in the chimney corner.

The following scene was witnessed by those two faithful servants, the other afternoon, in a domestic establishment, where the sly dog £f a gridiron often laughs between its bars at the overworked frying- Dan.

The husband, who is employed by a railway contractor, and a man who is what the world calls middling well off, and who has risen by nis own exeHions and abilities from a mor<3 humble position, arrives

MEAT Otf GftlDTttON: 40,

homo, nnd aslfS his wife what lie can have for dinner, the hour of her dinner, and that of the children, having long just. " What would you like to have, my dear?" was her question, "Anything you have." " Let's see ! why — we have nothing, but I can get you a mutton chop, or steak." " Can I have nothing else ; I am tired of chops and steaks." " Why, my dear, what can be better than a chop or a steak ?" " Well, let me have a steak/' " You had that yesterday, my dear : now, let me get you a chop. I always make it tny duty to study your comfort; and as I have been reading, not »ong since, a medical work on diseases of the skin, written by Dr. Erasmus Wilson, in which he says that nothing is so wholesome as a change of food, since which time I have made a point of 'varying Dur bill of fare, as they call it in that useful work." " Very well, send for two chops." In about twenty minutes the servant returns, saying she could get no chops, but has got a nice piece of steak. u Very well. That will do as well, will it not, my dear ?" to her husband, who is reading a periodical." " Yes ; but how long will you keep me here before it is done ?" " Not a minute, my love. Now, Jane, do that well on the gridiron." Jane descends, but quickly returns, saying, \\ Please, ma'am, the fire is not fit for broiling." " Well, fry it," is her answer. The husband, who hears it, exclaims, " Drat the frying-pan, it is always so greasy." - Then, my dear, how would you like to have it." " Not at all," was his reply, throwing down the paper, and exclaiming, "Bother the place, there is no getting any victuals properly cooked here. I must go to the cook-shop and have it." He seizes his hat, and slamming the door, makes his exit in a passion.

The mistress blames Jane, and begins to beat the child for having spset the milk on the toast. Jane kicks the cat, and gives warning. The night comes. There are no candles in the house. Jane is sent out for them, but does not return in proper time. The husband arrives, and finds all in darkness. They quarrel, and swear they must separate in order to "live comfortably together." Jane comes home, and is ordered to pack up her boxes, in order to be off the first thing in the morning, by which time, however, their tempers have had time to cool, and Jane is accordingly reinstated in her former position.

Moral (not on fable, but on truth) : A man disappointed in some- thing to eat, consoles himself with something to drink. Ii lie has no stimulus in wholesome food, he will have it in pernicious spirit. Ha is quarrelsome, scolds his wife, beats his children, frequents the {Irani-shop, and becomes what is called a bad husband. It is not altogether his fault, the dinner was not eatable, and he must have tom-vliing to support him, which he foolishly finds in spirits ; and thus, by the want of attention on the part of the wife, is made what he is. In no country in the world do the anuals ot police courts show such

50 MEAT ON GRIDIRON.

scenes as are dally noticed in the public journals of London, wliicn the increase of punishment hy a modern law has not yet succeeded in putting down.

Before proceeding with the following receipt, it is advisable to read the introduction of semi-fried steaks, and steaks in pan, pnge 56, as it would be tautology to repeat it here.

IMPORTANT REMARKS ON STEAK AND RUMP STEAK.

Broiled Steaks and Rump Stealc. — Previous to cooking a steak, nurse your fire ; it will well repay your trouble, and also remember, in the morning, that you are obliged to dine that very identical day, and no doubt you decide upon having a steak for dinner, which is a very good thing, when the meat is good and well cooked, also fix the hour jtou intend to dine, and half an hour previous stir up the fire, clear away the ashes, stir all dead cinders from the bottom, and in a few minutes you will have a clear fire, fit for the use of the gridiron ; and every article you may submit to that process of cookery stands a chance of being well done. I herewith forward you the following lesson : —

117. First Lesson. — For first quality of steak, the meat ought to be well hung, and if cut nicely off the rump of a Scotch beast will weigh from a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half, that is, being three-quarters of an inch thick ; if it should be cut rather thicker in one part than another, beat it even with a chopper ; if of the above thickness, it should be placed about five inches above the fire ; if thicker, six inches ; taking it as an invariable rule, that the thicker the steak, the further in proportion it must be from the fire. The extra piece of fat ivhieh accompanies it should be put on a little after the steak, or it will he too much done. Whilst doing, throw over some pepper and salt, and turn it the moment the fat begins to drop : the motive of constantly turning the steak is to keep the gravy in. Never put a fork into it to turn it, but use a pair of tongs but if you have not any, place the fork in the fat and turn it When the steak is done, it will feel firm under the pressure oi the finger.

MEAT ON GRIDHlOtf. 51

Second Lesson. — Sometimes it is impossible to broil over the fire, but easy to use a double gridiron, to broil in front. In such cases, the gridiron should never be opened until the steak is done,- then the gravy will not be pressed out. If carefully Mended to, this plan is as good as the other, but otherwise, it spoils the best of meat.

The time required for a nice tender rump steak, three-quarters of an inch thick, weighing a pound and a quarter, over or before a nice clear fire, is from twelve to fifteen minutes. If turned four times in that time, the gravy will remain in it, and if served imme- diately, on a hot dish (not too hot, to dry up the gravy), it will eat tender and juicy, and be fit for a member of the Rump Steak Club.

Tldrd Lesson. — Some persons put a bit of butter on the dish, others ketchup, others sauces of various kinds; all these should be left to the party who partakes of it ; it is the duty of the cook to send it up plainly, but properly seasoned with salt and pepper, unless otherwise ordered. Every pound of steak will require one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, and a half of pepper.

But if required flavoured and seasoned to satisfy a blase appetite, then the following should be adopted.

118. Rump Siealc with Eschalot. — Chop up one eschalot very fine, mix it with a teaspoon ful of salt and half of pepper, rub the steak all over with it, and press it in with a knife; place it over the fire as the above, cook and serve. If not required so strong, rub only the gridiron and the dish with eschalot.*

Rump Siealc with Eschalot Butter. — Cut up two eschalots very fine, and mix it with half an ounce of butter, which spread over the under part of the steak when dishing up.

Rump Steak with Maitre d1 Hotel Butter. — When your steak is just done, rub it over with an ounce of prepared butter as No. 426.

Devilled Steak. — Mix in a plate two teaspoonfuls of salt, halt

* If eschalot is required to be served up in the dish, or on a separate plate, chop them up fine, as at No. 419, and serve two tea- spoonsful to ev«*ry pound of steak,

52 MtfAT ON GRIDIRON.

Df cayenne, two of made mustard; place the steak on the fire; after the first turn spread half of the mixture on it, and dredge it with flour ; do the same with the other side. Broil as above. Curry Powder, mixed with mustard, or curry paste alone, can be rubbed over the same way.

119. Wakefield Stealc. — Cut a steak one inch thick, score it on each side, crossways. Put into a tart dish two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon, a tablespoonful of Soyer's relish, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; put the steak in it for six hours ; turn it now and then. This seasoning is called marinade. Previous to broiling, dredge it lightly with gome flour, while doing, and serve with butter in very small pieces under the steak. At Wakefield they sometimes use the Warnclifie sauce.

Some raw potatoes cut into very thin slices, and nicely fried, served round it, renders it a dish fit for the greatest epicure. This dish proves that the inhabitants of Wakefield have not lost the culinary reputation they formerly possessed, and which they first acquired some four hundred years since, when the French queen and her suite came to reside there, and allowed them to quarter the jteur-de-lis in the arms of the town. Beef skirt and other pieces may be all done in the same way, allowing time to cook according to the quality and hardness of the pieces you dress.

120. Mutton Chops* — These may all be cooked and flavoured like the steaks, but in many cases garlic is used instead of eschalot, when preferred. Peel a clove of garlick, put it on the end of a fork, and rub both sides of the chop lightly with it. Chopped mushrooms are very good with broiled chops. Any fleshy part of the sheep may be broiled the same way.

121. Mutton Chop. — In my opinion, two chops out of a fine South Down, well hung, cut three quarters of an inch thick, leaving half an inch of fat round them, and broiled over a clear fire for ten minutes, turned four times, sprinkled with salt and pepper, served on a hot plate, one at a time, wMi a nice mealy potato, is as good, as wholesome, and nutritious a dinner as can be partaken of. One and a half teaspoonful of salt and a half of pepper to a pound of chops, is a good seasoning.

* For description of chops see page 55, Frying -Pan.

MEAT ON GRIDIRON. 53

122. Plain Veal Chops are broiled as above. A veal chop, nicely cut from the leg, ought to weigh one pound. I am ot opinion that to broil a veal chop by the direct action of the fire is an act of Vandalism. Of course, if there is no time to do it other ways, it must be done so ; but that so delicate a kind ot food should be subject to such fierce treatment in order to spoil it, is what I do not approve of. It ought to be wrapped up in a sheet of buttered paper, with pepper and salt on it. The sheet of paper ought to be large, thick foolscap ; the chop laid on one half, the other brought over, and the edges folded over so that no gravy escapes. They should be placed eight inches above the fire, and broiled for at least twenty minutes, and served in the paper very hot. A little chopped mushroom or parsley may be placed in the paper, and improves the flavour.

123. Veal Cutlet. — A pound of veal not more than half an inch thick, from the fillet, will make three cutlets, and should be broiled with some bacon. The same objection exists with this as the former; but both veal and bacon wrapped up in paper, and broiled as above, is very excellent; a little chopped chives, eschalots, o** onions, may be added.

124. Pork Chops. — These should be cut not quite so thick as mutton, and the skin left on. They will take one third longer to do. Well rubbed with pepper and salt, and an onion, previous to broiling, is an improvement.

These can be served with any sauce, as apple, tomata, horse- radish, mustard, sage and onion, &c. &c.

125. Calves1 Heart should be cut lengthways, and the pieces not thicker than half an inch ; broil with a piece of fat, or bacon, for ten minutes : serve with a little currant jelly and butter in the dish, under the pieces of heart.

It is also excellent (see No. 119) marinaded for a few hours, and the following may be done any way like steak.

Ox, pig's, lamb, and sheep's heart, may be done like it.

Also the livers of the above, cut the same thickness, and broiled with some bacon, a little melted butter with ketchup in it, is a good sauce for broiled heart and liver. Observe, Eloise, that I shall be obliged to send you many similar receipts to these for frying-pan, but the flavour will be very different.

126. Lamb Chops should be cut not more than half an inch iiiiek, and broiled before the fire very close and quick j they wiP

54 MEAT ON GRIDIRON.

take from eight to ten minutes. Throw some pepper and salt over, and serve very hot, with fried parsley round them, if handy. Lamb chops might be dressed in paper, the same as veal.

127. Broiled Ham. — A slice of ham a quarter of an inch thick will take seven or eight minutes, over a sharp fire, turning jt often.

Bacon about the same.

128. Sausages should be placed high above a slow fire, and done slowly : they will take ten minutes ; beef sausages, about eight minutes ; prick them first with a fork, or they will burst.

129. Black Puddings. — These are often partaken of cold, after having been boiled, but they are best after broiling : they should be at least eight inches above the fire, and the skins pricked, and will take fifteen minutes doing, turning several times.

130. Cold Heat Broiled.— -The remains of cold meat cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick ; season with salt and pepper ; when hot through, rub with a little butter, turn it often, and serve with a little ketchup in the dish.

This may be varied with any sauce, or chopped herbs.

131. Broiled Bones. — When these have a little meat on them, they should be rubbed over with salt and pepper, and a little butter, broiled some distance above or before the fire, that they may get gradually warm, and should be served very hot, and rather brown.

Remains of poultry, game, &o., should be done the same.

132. Devilled Bone. — The remains of the rib of a sirloin of beef, or the blade-bone of a shoulder of mutton, the legs of fowls, turkeys, &c, should be slightly cut all round with a knife, and well rubbed with cayenne and salt, and a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, or ketchup, or Relish, and broiled gently until hot through and brown. Serve very hot.

133. Broiled and Devilled Toast. — Toast a round of bread, cut a quarter of an inch thick ; mix in a plate one ounce oi butter, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of Relish, or Sauce ; spread it over the toast, and serve very hot. Broiled kidneys or sausages may be served vn it.

134 Broiled Kidneys. — Sheep's kidneys should be cut in the middle, so as nearly to divide them, leaving the fat in the middle ;

MEAT IN FHYING-PAN. 55

run a gitewer through them, that they may remain open ; broil gently, five minutes for a common size is sufficient. Season with salt and pepper ; rub a piece of butter over, and serve. They can be served on toast, or with any sauce.

Lamb's, pig's, calves', and ox kidne}rs, may be done the same way, but the two latter will take much longer, and should be better done. You may also egg and bread-crumb them,

135. Broiled Fowls, Pigeons, Sfc. — These, if whole, should be cut in down the back, after being drawn and well skewered to keep them so, or beaten flat with the chopper. Season well with pepper and salt ; well grease a double gridiron, and place them a sufficient distance from a moderate fire ; turn often. A fowl, if small, will take from twenty -five to thirty minutes ; if large, three quarters of an hour ; pigeons about ten minutes, Serve either plain, or with any sauce that is liked. They may be egged and bread crumbed.

FRYING-PAN.— INTRODUCTION.

This useful utensil, which is so much in vogue in all parts of the world, and even for other purposes besides cookery — for I have before me now a letter, written, at the Ovens' diggings, on the hack of a frying-pan, for want of a table ; but in your letter you suggest the necessity of paying particular attention to it, as it is the utensil most in vogue in a bachelor's residence. I cannot but admire your constant devotion to the bachelors : you are always in fear that this unsociable class of individuals should be uncomfortable. For my part, I do not pity them, and would not give myself the slightest trouble to comfort them, especially after they have passed the first thirty springs of their life. Let them get married, and enjoy the troubles, pleasures, and comforts of matrimony, and have a wife to manage their home, and attend to more manly pursuits than cooking their supper when they get home at night, because the old housekeeper has gone to bed ; or lighting the fire when they get up in the morning, because the old dame has a slight touch of lumbago and should he require something substantial for his breakfast, and want that utensil of all work, the frying-pan, finds it all dirt and fishy, not having been cleaned since he last dined at home.

No, my dear Eloise, I assure you I do not feel at all inclined to add to their comforts, though you may do what you like with the following receipts, which are equally as applicable to them, as to the aumble abode of the married fraternity.

66 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.

You will also find, in these receipts, that the usual complaint ai food being greasy by frying, is totally lemedied, by sauteing the meat in a small quantity of fat, butter, or oil, which has attained a proper degree of heat, instead of placing it in cold fat and letting it soak while melting.

I will, in as few words as possible, having my frying-pan in one hand and a rough cloth in the other, with which to wipe it (con- sidering that cleanliness is the first lesson in cookery), initiate you in the art of producing an innumerable number of dishes, which can be made with it, quickly, economically, relishing, and wholesome. But I must first tell you, that the word fry, in the English language, is a mistake; according to the mode in which all objects are cooked which are called fried, it would answer to the French word saute, or the old English term frizzle; but to fry any object, it should be immersed in very hot fat, oil, or butter, as I have carefully detailed to you in our " Modern Housewife." To frizzle, saute, or, as I will now designate it, semi-fry, is to place into the pan any oleaginous substance, so that, when melted, it shall cover the bottom of the pan by about two lines; and, when hot, the article to be cooked shall be placed therein. To do it to perfection requires a little attention, so that the pan shall never get too hot. It should be perfectly clean — a great deal depends on this.

I prefer the pan, for many objects, over the gridiron ; that is, if the pan is properly used. As regards economy y it is preferable, seeming all the fat and gravy, which is often lost when the gridiron is used.

All the following receipts can be done with this simple batteyie de vuisine, equally as well in the cottage as in the palace, or in the bachelor's chamber as in the rooms of the poor.

136. 1st Lesson. To Semi-frj/ Steak. — Having procured a steak about three quarters of an inch thick, and weighing about one pound, and two ounces of fat, place the pan on the fire, with one ounce of butter or fat ; let it remain until the fat is melted, and rather hot ; take hold of the steak at one end by a fork, and dip it in the pan, so that one side is covered with fat; then turn tlie other side in it, and let it remain for two or three minutes, according to the heat of the fire ; then turn it : it will take about ten or twelve minutes, and require to be turned on each side three times, taking care that the pan is not too hot, or it will burn the gravy, and perhaps the meat, and thus lose all the nutriment ; in fact, the pan should never be left, but care- tally watched; on this depends the advantages of this style and mode of cookery. If the object is not turned often, it will be noticed that the gravy will come out on the upper surface of tli3 meat, which, when turning over, will go into the pan and be

Season with a tea*

MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 57

spoonful of salt and a quarter of pepper; then feel with the finger that it is done, remove it with a lork, inserted in the fat, and serve very hot.

So mueh for the first lesson, the details of which must bo learnt as it will then simplify every other receipt.

137. 2nd Lesson. — Eemember that the thickness is never to exceed one inch, nor be less than half an inch, and to be as near as possible the same thickness all over. A good housewife will object to one cut in any other way; but if it cannot be avoided, press it out with the blade of the knife, to give it the proper thickness. When done, wipe the pan clean, and place it on a hook against the wall, with the inside of the pan nearest the wall, to prevent the dust getting in.

New, dear Eloise, you will perliaps say tliat the foregoing lessons are too ?o:ig for so simple a thing as a steak, as everybody think themselves capable of cooking it without tuition, but having now given these directions, I hope those who fancy they can cook without learning will knew better for the future, and pay a little attention to so important a subject.

138. — The above ?es?on may be varied by adding to the pan, with the seasoning, a rew chopped onions, or eschalots, parsley, mushrooms, pickles, scmi-firied at the same time or after, and poured over the steak ; oi when the steak is dished up, a little butter, or chopped parsley and butter, or two spoonfuls of either Eelish, Harvey's, or any other good satire that may be handy. Pour the fat of the steak into a basin for future use. Some fried potatoes may be served with it, or the following additions made: after the steak is done, slice a quarter ef a pound of onions to each pound of steak, and a little more fat ; fry quickly, and when brown place round the steak ; pour the gravy over.

Some mushrooms, if small, whole, if large, sliced, put in the Jan and fried, are excellent.

Two tablespoonfuls of mixed pickle, put into the pan after the steak is removed, fried a little, then add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor and two of water ; when on the point of boiling pour over the steak. The same may be done with pickled walnuts and gherkins, or two ounces of tavern-keepers' butter rubbed over, (see No. 426,) or half a pint of 0}^ster sauce, or mussel sauce, or horseradish sauce ; or a little flour dredged over the steak, and a little water added in the pan, when the steak is done, and a little colouring or ketchup, and then poured over the steaks

58 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.

These receipts can be continued and multiplied to Any extent, entirely depending on the taste of the cook.

A steak may first be dipped in flour, and well shook ; then, when you have semi-fried your meat, it will have acquired a nice brown ; this may also be applied to veal cutlets, pork and mutton chops, poultry and game.

139. Another Way. — When your steak is partly dona, dredge both sides over with a spoonful of flour, dish up, po^r out the fat, put a gill of water in the pan ; let it simmer a few minutes, — it will make a nice thick sauce.

139a. Beefsteak, with Semi-fried Potatoes. — Rub and semi- fry your steak, adding thin slices of potatoes, letting them lie m the pan while the steak is doing ; turn them as often as you ilo the steak, serve round with gravy, to make which pour half a gill of water in the pan under the steak — the moisture of the potatoes will cause some of the gravy to come out of the meat, but it will be found very good.

140. A Series of Lessons how to Semi fry Chops of all Jcinds. Lesson 1. — First select your mutton. Let it not be too fat ; if it is, cut some off. Always observe that a mutton chop should be one third fat, and of the same thickness throughout. Have them cut from the loin, let them he about an inch in thickness. Very little attention will accomplish this important point; for I feel convinced, Eioise, that an ill-cut chop never can be but ill-cooked ; you can always equalize them by beating them out with a chopper. Have your frying-pan very clean ; put in an ounce of butter, or, if you like, dripping or lard ; let it get rather hot. As soon as it begins to smoke, take your chop with a fork, by the small end, and dip it in the fat for half a minute; then turn it, let it semi-fry for about three minutes, season the upper- most side with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper ; then turn it, and serve the other side the same way. You may then turn it several times while doing, as that equalizes the cooking, as well as carbonizes the meat. Ten minutes will cook it to perfection, and less, if thinner.

Second Lesson. — If the above directions are properly attended to, the chop will present the appearance of a rich brown colour,, fend the fat a gold colour, cutting extremely wrhite and light, while the meat will look darkish, and give a strong gravy which will almost stick to the knife, instead of running on the plate and par- taking of a watery red colour, as is the case when a chop is slowly and badly cooked. This last sort of gravy is called by some people tick, which 1 am sure, my dear, you will find to be a great mistake \

MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 59

though the badly-cooked chop will probably weigh more than the other, from not having lost so much of its substance, yet it will not possess half the nutriment and flavour of a chop well done. The above quantity of seasoning will do for a chop weighing about a quarter of a pound, and would, I may safely say, suit the palate of fifteen persons out of twenty ; therefore I hope it will diminish the load of salt and pepper every Englishman piles on his plate, previous to tasting the article of food placed before him. The cook ought to ficason for the guest, not the guest for the cook.

141. Third Lesson. — When you can thoroughly cook a chop according to the first lesson, it materially simplifies the second, which is thus done : — Get a chop and cook it as above, but to vary the flavour, when half cooked, sprinkle over it a little chopped chives, or eschalots, or onions, spice, or aromatic herbs j or when done, rub both sides of the chop lightly with a clove of peeled garlic, or a piece of fresh or maitre d'hotel butter. These remarks are applicable to all kinds of semi-fried meat.

The Fourth Lesson is still more simplified, my dear Eloise, namely, cook your chop plainly, as before directed, eat it yourself, and let me know how you relished it.

Chops from the neck, called cutlets, are done in this manner. Pork, veal, and ham chops require the same style of seasoning and cooking. A slow fire is preferable to a sharp one for the above mentioned chops, which, when semi-fried, will take a gold colour, as above-mentioned. You may always ascertain when the chop is done by pressing your finger on the thick part ; if the flesh is firm and well set on both sides, it is done and ready to serve. Half a pint of chopped pickled red cabbage put in the pan after the chop is done and warmed through will be found very relishing, especially for pork cutlets.

142. Mutton Cutlets. — The chop from the neck is tbe best to semi- fry ; they sbould be nicely cut, and the bone at tbe thick part removed, as it prevents the meat from doing ; then beat up the yolk and white of an eggt with a pinch of salt; have ready some bread-crumbs, made from stale bread, and sifted, (this may always be kept ready in a canister) ; beat out the cutlets with a small chopper, dip them or rub them with a brush with the egg, place some of the bread-crumbs on a plate, and lay the cutlet on them ; press them ; serve both sides the same, and shake off all. loose crumbs; have the fat in the pan quite hot, lay them in it; when nicely browned on one side, turn them over, and do the other side the same ; take them out, lay them on a cloth, so that no fat remains ; serve with any made sauce.

60 MF.AT IN FEYING-rAK,

1 13, > cal CutleU should bo cut round, about thiee Indies in diameter, and i thick, done i My.

11 1. These may all .7 previous to brcad-erum'.

with either onion or eschalot ; by nibbing then there will be

no perceptible taste, but a pungent ilavour; these can bo served with various made sauces, and stewed spinach, greens, peas anything, according to taste, remembering that that which pleases the eye will prove agreeable to the palate.

145. Pork Chops, semi-fried, without broad-crumbs, BH SS the mutton oV will require more time, and should be

served with a mustard or sharp sauee.

Mutton, veal, pork, '.u\<{ lamb, all took inviting, and are all equally good, when bread- crumbed and semi-fried, as above.

\ 1st Lesson. Sausages and Kidneys, Se7)ii-fried. — Peel and chop nncahout four small onions, put one ounceof butter in the frying- pan, two ounces of bacon out in sliees, and a tablespoonful of chopped onions ; fry for live minutes, stuffing it with a spoon ; rat half a pound of sausages in half lengthways, place them in the pan, then out an ox kidney into thin sliees, omitting the fiard part ; put it in the centre of the pan, season with half a teaspooniul of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper ; Cry gently for live minutes, turning them. Take care they are not done too much, or they will be hard; throw a teaspooniul of ilavour over them, add one quartern of water ; simmer two minutes ; dish with kidneys in the middle and sausages round. Dripping, lard, or oil. may be used instead of butter, and a few small mushrooms is an improvement.

Lesson. Kidneys alone. — Slice thin an ox kidney, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan ; when hot, add two ounces of bacon, cut in thin dice, and the kidney; fry for five minutes, if over a brisk lire ; longer, if over a slow fire ; add a onful of flour, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a pint of Water, simmer a few minutes, stir round, and serve with or without crisp toasted bread round it: a little lemon is an improvement.

3rd Lesson. Mutton Kidneys, with Ale Sauee.— Cut six kidneys in two, remow r skin, cut them into slices: put

two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; when very hot, put in the kidneys, and stk continually for about five minutes ; sprinkle

MEAT Itf PBYING-PAN. 61

over a teaspoonful of Hour, a little salt and popper, and, i! hand}', a little parsley chopped fine ; moisten with a little water and four tablespoonfuls of ale ; thus it forms a thickish sauce. Lemon is an improvement, or wine in the place of ale, or a little vinegar, if preferred.

147. Calves' Liver, Semi-fried. — Cut the liver a quarter of an inch thick, the bacon the same, mix in a plate a tablespoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, dip the liver into it; have ready the frying-pan, with sufficient fat or dripping, quite clear, as much as will cover the bottom of the pan a quarter of an inch; when very hot (which try as before directed for fish), put in the liver and bacon ; the bacon will be done first, which remove; the liver must be turned in five minutes^ when it is done remove it into a dish, and serve.

148. Another Way. — Take away nearly all the fat, then put in the pan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same of flour, stir till brown, then add some salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a small teacupful of water, a little curry powder if handy; mix well together, and pour over the liver. Calves' Hearts, as we* as pig's and sheep's, &c. &c, may be done like liver, cut iu slices, with the exception, that either some currant-jelly, port wine, or a little ale or porter, or ketchup, may be added to the sauce ; it is also good bread- crumbed.

149. Lambs' Fry is sometimes to be had for a trifle ; you can purchase it from about threepence or fourpence per pound ; wash it in cold water ; for every pound put a quart of water ; put them in it for ten minutes to set ; take them out, lay them on a cloth ; then put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter or dripping, letting it get hot, then dip each piece of the fry in the folio w« ing mixture, and put in the pan, and fry gently : break an cggn beat it well, add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix smooth, half a wineglass of either milk or water, a little salt and pepper may be put in this delicate batter. When your fry has obtained a nice gold colour, turn it ; when done, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of pepper, to every pound of fry. A few thopped oniona put La the pan with the meat is very nloe^ or a few mushrooms.

Pigs' ehitlings. done as above, will be found very gootv, espe- cially if fried wif.h onions ; buy them ready cleaned, then before

62 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.

you fry them let tliem simmer in a saucepan, in salt and water for thirty minutes, or till tender ; drain them, and fry as above. Tripe may also be done the same.

FOWLS.

150. — The motive of semi-frying food is to have it done quickly; therefore, to fry a whole fowl, or even half, is useless, as it could be cooked in a different way in the same time; but to semi-fry a fowl with the object of having it quickly placed on the table, in order to satisfy a good, and perhaps fastidious, appetite, it should be done in a similar way to that practised in Egypt some 3000 years since, and of late years for the great Napoleon — that is, cooked in oil.

In France this dish is called " Poulet a la Marengo." It is related that the great conqueror, after having gained that celebrated victory eat three small chickens at one meal done in this way, and his appetite and taste was so good, and he approved of them so highly that he desired that they might always be served in the same wa} during the campaign.

151. — The fowl should be divided thus ; if just killed it should be plucked and drawn as quick as possible, or cooked whilst still warm ; it will then be tender ; if it has been long killed, the joints and pieces should be well beaten with a piece of wood, not to break the skin and bones, but to loosen the sinews. The legs should be first removed, then the wings, going close up to the breast ; then cut the belly in two ; by this there are eight pieces. They should be seasoned with pepper and salt ; for want of oil, one ounce of either butter, fat, or dripping should be put in the pan. If a young fowl, it will take from twelve to fifteen minutes ; the pieces should be turr ed several times ; when done serve plain, or put into the fat a glass of wine, some vinegar, or ketchup ; for want of wine add a little vinegar ; give it a boil up till half reduced ; season and pour into the dish, and serve. A few fried mushrooms are excellent with it; or six oysters, with their liquor, or tomata sauce, <fec.

If the fowl is preferred to be done whole, then split it down the oack, truss it the same as for broiling ; beat it flat, put two ounces of oil into the pan, lay in the fowl, season it; it must be done gently, and will take half an hour, if young, but of a good size ; if rather an old bird, it will take one third more than the above time.

132. Pigeons, whole, should be cut dowii cht back the same zi

MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 63

'owl ; Gut off the head, the pinions, and feet ; season and fry with in ounce of oil or fat. They will take ten minutes,

153. Rabbits. — Cut them in pieces, remove all superfluous oones, beat each piece flat, season them with pepper and salt, place the pan on the fire with two ounces of fat, put in it two onions, sliced, and then the rabbit ; they will take twenty minutes or more to do, gently ; remove the pieces of rabbit ; have the liver, heart, and brains chopped up with a little parsley, and fry with the remaining fat ; when done pour off part of the fat ; add a gill of water, season it ; give it a boil, and pour over the rabbit. A little curry may be added, and boiled rice, served separate.

154 Poultry of all hinds, Devilled. — These are best made by poultry previously cooked. The proper way is to do them with the gridiron, but in case the fire is in that state that they cannot be broiled, and the everlasting frying-pan must be made use of, then prepare them as already described for broiling. Place in the pan one ounce only of butter, and fry gently until hot through. A slight improvement may be made in using the frying-pan ; it is to rub the bottom with garlic or eschalot before placing the fat in, frying some onions at the same time. A little bacon can also be fried with it.

CURIOUS EFFECTS OF IMAGINATION.

Here, Eloise, I again discuss a subject about which, some little time since, we had an argument; but you will observe that the topic is treated in quite a different manner, and you must use your own discretion whether you will introduce ox liver or not. I can only say that I and three friends dined off it yesterday, and they all declared it excellent. I assure you I am not jesting, they thought they were eating calves' liver, and praised the way it was cooked.

Later in the day I put on a very long face, and asked one of them, a cousin of mine, if he felt well, as the cook had made a great mistake in preparing the dinner ? He, knowing my mania for experiments turned very pale, and said, " No ! No V " Do not be frightened, for it is nothing very bad; she used ox liver instead of calves'." The poor fellow was greatly relieved, for he thought himself poisoned; but still the idea of having eaten of the food which is generally given to that domesticated and homely animal, pussy, made him uncomfort- able all through the evening.

This is the effect of the imagination, as we have sufficient proof?.

64 MEAT IN FHYIXCI-PAff.

in China, France, and elsewhere, that many objects which we detest are considered the greatest luxuries.

A curious incident of the force of imagination occurred some years since at a town not a hundred miles from Leicester. A candidate for the borough, as M.P., a noble lord, having been unsuccessful, his supporters proposed giving him a dinner to console him for his loss he, however, could not attend, but sent them a raised pie of game, about the size of a small carriage wheel, which was partaken of by his supporters with great gusto. A few days after a letter arrived to the chairman, as if from the noble lord, stating that he was glad they liked the pie, as he had now got his revenge for their having deceived him in the election — tbat the pie was composed of polecats, dogs, rats, &c. &c. This letter was shown to the members of the committee ; and it soon got noised about, and although four days had elapsed, there was hardly a person that had partaken of it who was not ill. The noble lord having left that part of the country, it was some days before the hoax was found out.

155. 1st Lesson. New Style of Dressing Liver in Frying* fan. — I dressed it thus : take about Wo pounds of ox liver ; remove the sinew and veins, cut it into long slices, half an inch thick, put in two ounces of dripping in pan ; when hot put in three pieces at a time of liver until set ; cut a quarter of a pound of bacon in small dice, fry in fat, cut up the liver in small dice, add it to the bacon, then add a tablespoonful of chopped onions, the same of parsley, the same of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and half of pepper, stir round, and then add half a pint of water, or a little more if the flour is strong, till it forms a nice thickish sauce ; put all into a dish, cover over with bread-crumbs, put a little fat over, and place in the oven or before the fire for twenty minutes ; brown it over with a hot shovel, and serve. A few poached eggs put on the top will give it a nice appearance, and render it more nourishing. Curry may be used.

156. Minced Meat. — The remains of any kind of cooked meat will be found very good ; the meat having been previously done will only require mincing. Cut in thin slices about one pound of mer.t, put on a dish, sprinkle over about a teaspoonful of salt, third ditto of pepper, one of flour, mix well, put in your frying- pan, add half a pint of water, and a drop of colouring, if handy put on the fire, stir when it commences to boil, then place it on the hob, let it simmer ten minutes, and serve.

N.B. — This is very plain, as you see, and can be made in anj

MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 65

pan or ircn pot, but I place it here only for those who possess , frying-pan.

You may now vary this economical dish in twenty different ways ; prepare always your meat, flour, salt, and pepper, as above ; you may add a teaspoonful of chopped herbs, such as onion, chives, or parsley, or a tablespoonful of sharp pickles, or made sauce, a little cayenne, spices, wine, or vinegar, may also be used, and served on toast if approved of.

157. Minced Veal. — Any remains of roast veal may be quickly dressed to good advantage, as follows, by the aid of the frying-pan : — Cut all the meat and fat off the joint into small dice ; calculate the amount of fat you put with the lean, say three ounces for every pound ; when cut put a pound of it on a dish, add to it a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, two spoonfuls of flour, and a chopped onion ; put in the pan half a pint of water to boil, two teaspoonfuls of colouring; then put the meat in, stir it, let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, and serve on toast ; poached eggs on it are very good ; or put the mince into a tin pan, bread-crumb over, drop a little butter or dripping over, then put it in the oven, or before the fire to brown. The mince may be made white by using milk instead of water and colouring.

158. New Way of Mincing Meat. — Cut in small dice one pound of either raw beef, mutton, pork, or veal, flesh and fat in proportion ; put in the pan two ounces of butter or dripping ; when hot, add the meat, stir it occasionally, and season it with two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a little spice, half one of pepper. When the meat is just set, put in a teaspoonful of flour, half a pint of water; let it simmer twenty minutes, or, if tough, a little longer, adding a gill more water, and serve; a little eschalot, chives, or onions, chopped, may be added. If veal, lamb, or pork, the sauce may be kept white, and milk may be used ; if beef or mutton, the sauce ought to be brown, and three teaspoon- fuls of colouring added; the juice of a lemon, or a drop of vinegar, is very good with it ; ox kidneys may be done the same way. This will make a good curry by the addition of half a teaspoonful of that article.

158 A. Simplified way of Hashing all hinds of Coolced Meat.^Qxd a pound of meat, except salted meat,, previously

06 MEAT IN FRYING-PAN.

rooked, into thin slices, put it on a dish, add to it one teaspoon- ful of flour, one and a half of salt, half a one of pepper, mixing all together well, then put all in the frying-pan, adding half a pint of cold water ; set it on the fire ; let it remain there until it has simmered ten minutes; take up, and serve.

2nd Lesson. Proceed as above, but vary flavour with either of the following ingredients : use either a teaspoonful of chopped onions, eschalot, parsley, a few mushrooms, pickles, sauce, or ketchup.

The above can be done in cither black pot, iron saucepan, or frying-pan.

159. All the above can be made as curries, and served with rice, by first frying one onion, cut up small, and half a large baking-apple, also cut small ; then add the meat, give it a fry, mix with half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of good curry powder, pour it over the meat, give it a simmer for ten minutes, and serve with boiled rice separate.

160. Bubble and Sqtceak. — Any remains of salt beef or pork may be dressed in this old, but good and economical fashion. Cut your meat, when cold, in thin slices, to the weight of about a pound, including, if possible, from two to three ounces of fat ; then take one or two Savoy cabbages, according to size, which, when boiled and chopped, ought to weigh about two pounds ; cut each cabbage in four, throw a few of the green outside leaves away, as likewise the stalk ; put about a gallon of water in an iron sauce- pan ; when boiling add your cabbage, and let it remain about twenty minutes, or until tender ; drain them well, and chop them tip rather fine ; then add three oances of either butter or dripping in the frying-pan, which put on the fire ; when hot put in your slices of meat, which semi-fry of a nice brownish colour, on both sides; take them out, put them on a dish, keep them warm ; then put the cabbage in the pan with the fat, add a tea- spoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper ; stir round till hot throughout; put on the dish, lay the meat over, and serve; if no cabbage, any green will do, first boiled, drained, chopped, and Tried. Boiled carrots and turnips, previously cooked and chopped, may be added to the cabbage.

161. Fritters of Meat, Poultry, Fish, and Fruits. — The fol-

MEAT IN FRYING-PAN. 67

lowing is thirty receipts in one : — Put a pound of the crumb 01 bread to soak in cold water, take the same quantity of any kind of boiled or roasted meat, a little fat, which chop in dice rather fine, press the water out of the bread ; put in the pan two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping, with two teaspoonfuls o! chopped onions, fry two minutes, add the bread, stir with a wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, if handy ; stir till quite hot ; then add two eggs, one at a time, mix very quick, and pour on dish to cool.

Then roll it into the shape of small eggs, then in flour, egg them and bread-crumb, fry (as No. 72) a nice yellow colour; serve plain, or with any sharp or any other sauce you fancy.

162. Innumerable are the receipts tfisvt can be made in this way ; in fact, from everything that is eatable, and at any season of the year, — from the remains of meat, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, using the same amount of seasoning. Bread soaked in milk is better.

163. The same can be done with chopped dried fruits, and preserved fruits, using a quarter of a pound more bread ; fry, and sift powdered sugar and cinnamon over. Cream may be used for fruits or curds.

They may also be fried in batter, like fritters, instead of bread- crumbs.

There is no end to what may be done with these receipts. They may be fried, and when cold put between paste, cut into nice pieces of any shape, and baked. They can be ornamented, and made worthy the table of the greatest epicure, if the bread be soaked in cream, and spirits or liquor introduced in them.

164 Tripe, Lyons fashion. — Boil two pounds of tripe ; when done, drain it, dry with a cloth, cut it in pieces about an inch square, put in the pan four ounces of butter, four middling-sized onions cut in slices, fry for a few minutes, then add the tripe, stir them every four minutes for about a quarter of an hour, then put in a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, mixed well, and it will be ready for serving.

Vermicelli, boiled in the water that the tripe has been ooiled in, makes good soup. Kice or bread is nice done this way. Ths a«Mition of a teaspoonful of curry, one spoonful </»

68 MEAT IN FRYING-PAll.

flour, and half a pint of broth or water, will make a good lurry with the tripe.

165. A Fried Toad in the Sole. — Take a steak of the size required, not less in thickness than what I have before stated, and partly fry on both sides ; have ready a pint of second-class batter, as No. 462; remove the steak for a minute, add more fat in the pan, put in the batter when it is beginning to become as thick as paste, place the steak in the middle, raise the frying-pan a sufficient height from the fire on a trivet, so as to cook gently ; turn it over; or put the pan in the oven; when well set ;t ig done ; serve on a dish, the bottom uppermost.

165 A. Tripe Sauted. — Have the tripe already boiled tender ; put into the pan two ounces of fat, with two onions in slices ; fry them ; when brown add the tripe, which must be dry ; when they get a little brown add salt, pepper, a pint of second-class batter, No. 462 ; proceed as above.

The same Curried. — Proceed as above ; add one teaspoonful of the curry powder instead of the vinegar.

The same with Tickle. — Proceed as above; adding piccalilly, or gherkins cut small.

166. The Remains of other kinds of Cold Roast Meats may be done in this way, and, when eggs are cheap, poach half- a-dozen, which put on the top.

167. The Remains of Fish, previously cooked, are very good done in this way. A piece of conger eel or ling, about four inches thick, partly boiled in salt water with onions and parsley, and Doned, will make a very economical and also a Lenten dish.

168. Veal or Mutton, cut into pieces, about two inches cquare, and thin, may be fried and added to the batter.

169. Beef Collops, Fried. — Take a piece of steak, part and cut thin into pieces of about two inches square, let it be free from sinews, have the frying-pan well greased, add the pieces of meat, do them quickly, sprinkle salt, pepper, and a little flour over them whilst doing ; and when nearly done add any flavour you like, cither of curry, pickles, tomato or a little vinegar. Serve very hot.

SOYEIi'3 BAKING STEWINC-PAN, 69

170. Veal Cutlets for the Aged. — Cut one pound of veal in eight or ten pieces ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ol pepper, little chopped parsley; then take each piece separate, and with the back of the knife heat them well till nearly in a pulp; give them the shape of cutlets with a knife; egg and bread-crumb; beat them nice and smooth, put two ounces of lard in the frying-pan ; when rather hot, fry a nice colour ; serve plain, or with sharp sauce, No. 420. These may tfe done, as a general dish, by adding a little fried bacon and chopped onions in the frying-pan. They are extremely tender and full oi gravy

Beef, mutton, and lamb, may be clone the same way. Sausage- meat of beef or pork may be here introduced, shaped and fried the same.

INTRODUCTION TO BAKING STEW-PAN.

My dear Eloise, — In some of my former letters, I have stated that the principal art of cookery consists in knowing the exact time each object requires to be subjected to the action of the fire ; whether it be direct, or by the assistance of either roasting, frying, baking, or boiling. Large quantities of food may be treated in such a manner, that no more nutriment shall be obtained than by smaller quantities j but to learn this requires practice and attention, more than those to whom we wish to dedicate these letters can probably give.

I have been thinking in what way wre could obviate the present loss, which either ascends the chimney to disperse in thin air, or pervades the apartments of the house to the inconvenience of its inmates.

I am the more particularly led to the consideration of this subject from having, in my rambles, entered a cottage, the other day, from which an odour proceeded, as if something more than ordinary cookery was going on, when I found a large pot of a kind of Irish stew boiling away on the fire, and the fragrance of the vegetables and meat dis- persed over the apartment. Entering into conversation with the occupant, whom I found to be the wife of a carpenter on the adjoining estate, and who was preparing the table for six persons to dine, I soon found she had no mean opinion of ber abilities in cooking. I remonstrated with her on the wraste she was making, and at ones took up a plate, and held it over the puv. so as to intercept the Bteam, when it was shortly covered by coivir tot^ steam and small particles of fibrine, which I convinced her vouid be much better used in giving nutriment to her family than ,n mingling with the soot in the chimney.

70 Soy fiilS BAKING STEWING -PAJf.

In our saperior kitchens there may be plenty of means and utensils to prevent a part of this evil ; but in the cottage, the abode of the »abourer, whose stock of kitchen utensils consists of an iron pot, frying-pan, and gridiron, these kind of stews could not be done with- out great waste and difficulty. I have therefore invented a new and simple baking stew-pan, by which all the nutriment and flavour of the various ingredients placed in it are preserved. In order that you may understand it, I will give you a drawing and description of it, feeling confident it will be useful to the million. (See appendix ift the end of book.)

It has, likewise, one great advantage over the old method of boiling or stewing, namely, that it gives hardly any trouble in making, retains all the nutriment, cooks in one-third less the time taken by the usual way, and there is not a part of any beast, such as mutton, lamb, beef, pork, veal, or fish, however tough, that may not be cooked tender by this pan. Let whatever you cook in it be sweety you may, by using this pan and the following receipts, make delicious dishes of fish, flesh, or vegetables ; moreover, food prepared in this way will keep much longer than if dressed another way, and must consequently facilitate the way of cooking for a large family, as you can do enough food at once to last for several meals, which you must admit will save an immense deal of time.

This modest pan, as you must perceive, will concentrate all the nutriment and aroma created by any kind of food placed in it ; and the object I have in putting a lock and key on it, is to prevent any j*!rson raising the lid while cooking, as by so doing the best part of the flavour would immediately escape.

It is so constructed that it may be hung over the fire, or placed on the hob, or steamed or boiled in a stewpan (as you would a pudding boiled in a basin), or in a cottage or baker's oven.

You must agree, my excellent friend, that I have hitherto done all n my power to simplify and economize the food partaken of by the larger part of the people of this country, who, I am sorry to say, are much behind their continental neighbours in the art of cookery, though possessing the best kind of food, and certain I am that huge mountains might be erected with the food daily and hourly wasted, even at the doors of the poor.**

Is it possible, that in a country where the science of political economy has made such progress, that such men as Jeremy Bentham and others have written volumes to benefit their fellow men, and yet

* While on my Governmental mission through Ireland, in. the year of the famine, 1847, the following conversation took place between Lord Bes?borough, then 3 jord*Lieutenant of Ireland, and myself, after my return from visiting the interior of the country : —

gOYETTS BAKING STEWING-PAff. 71

never have given jne word on that science which would materially increase the food partaken of by all classes of society 1

Now that I have explained to yon my new method of cookery, yon must try the following receipts, and then yon will find my assertion to be correct.

171. Beef -steak in Baking Ban. First Lesson. — Take two pounds of beef steak, which cut in pieces the size of walnuts, but only half an inch thick ; peel two pounds of potatoes, cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick, two middling- sized onions sliced ; mix two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper.

Then lay five or six slices of potatoes on the bottom of the pan, season them, then acid some pieces of beef; season again, then potatoes and onions, then beef, until the pan is full, potatoes on

" In an interview granted by his excellency, his lordship asked me if I could account for the generality of the people being so poor ; «vhen I replied, ' Easily, my lord : why they actually manure the land with gold to reap copper.' 'How do you make that out?' was his excellency's inquiry. 'Why, my lord, they waste tons of good fish on the ground to grow a few potatoes.' ' In your opinion, why do they do it ?' ' Why, my lord ? Because they know how to cook potatoes to perfection, and are totally ignorant of the way to cook fish.' 'Well, I believe you are right,' said his lordship; 'but how could the evil be remedied ?' * Easily,' I replied. ' I would first show them how to cook their food, no matter how simple such food might be, and prove to them that the maize, or American flour, now so much in use, if properly prepared, would be a blessing instead of a curse; also the necessity of using with their food other vegetables besides potatoes, as well as instruct them in several plain ways of cooking fish, which could be had in abundance all the year round, at a very cheap rate ; it would, at the same time, give employment on the coast to thousands of indolent people, as well1 as circulate an immense deal of money in the interior of the country and much improve the condition of these poor wretched beings whc only seem to have been born to live between poverty and starvation.

" My plan would be to have public lecturers appointed, whose duty t> should be to go round as often as the agricultural lecturer, and teach the people how to cook the food which that person now en- deavours to make them cultivate.

" Until this is done, this country will never emerge out of ih semi-barbarous state in which it is zt fres8nt."

His lordship took a note ot the conversation, but sudden illne* prevented my ideas being carried out

72

SOYER S BAKING STEWlNG-PAtt.

tlie top, seasoning each time ; pour tliree quarters of a pint of water Lock the lid, put in your oven, or send to the Laker's, for on hour and a half; when done shake the pot gently, that the gravy may mix with the potatoes and onions, and form a nice thick sauce. Skirt or any other part of beef is excellent done thus.

Observe, Eloise, that this is the plain foundation of every receipt which I am going to send you, on that simple and effective style of cookery. I have omitted all seasoning but salt and pepper ; if onions are an objection omit them ; therefore take this as a guide for all kinds of meat, poultry, and even fish, which are very good done ui this way.

172. Another variety may be made, which gives a change • this is, to mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a little chopped suet, a little salt, a gill of water, to form a paste ; roll it out to cover the meat, so that it fits to the sides of the pan; then put the cover on as usual, and bake. A little dripping will do for the paste.

You have often reproached me of liking to give varieties of season- ing ; in the above it is according to your own heart; but having done bo, let me give one according to my own liking, and though you say the majority of people are not fond of savoury cookery, and do not like any predominant flavour ; but I am certain they only require to try it two or three times, and they will like it.

173. — The variation of seasoning is very slight, to the above add only two onions ; four will give it a stronger flavour, and six for those fond of onions. These may be varied by the judicious use of the following spices — either two cloves, or one blade of mace, or six peppercorns, or a teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Or with the herbs, two small bay-leaves, two sprigs of fresh thyme, or some winter savory, or lemon thyme ; if dried, a little more should be used; two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley may be employed. A little celery seed is also very good. All these are to be increased in proportion to the size and contents of the pan.

174. Leg of Beef. — Take two pounds of the leg — tiiat part which is full of sinew — cut as above, and season the same way ; add a pint of water, and give another hour in the oven : meat without bone is preferable; any part of the beef will do for this receipt.

SOYEn's BAKIKG STEWING -PAN. 73

Or, instead of cutting the leg or any other part of the Least, the cheek may be put in whole, letting it weigh about four pounds. This process of cooking will make it very palatable and tender; to vary it, the meat may be larded, and a bunch of herbs (No. 451) added, also cloves, nutmeg, mace, or a little garlic.

175. Beef with Vegetables. — Peel two carrots, two turnips, two onions, cut in pieces, put some vegetables at the bottom, then the meat in centre ; season, and cover over with remaining vegetables ; add a few cloves, a pint of water, or half ale and half water ; put in slow oven for three hours, take off the fat, and serve. Four pounds of any inferior part of beef will eat tender done thus.

176. Ox Tail. — Cut them at the joint, although I prefel them sawed through the piece; have ready some chopped onions and a little herbs ; roll each piece in flour, place them carefully in the pan, with some of the onions and seasoning ; add a pint of water, bake three hours, take off the fat, and serve.

177. Ox Heart and Kidneys. — The heart does not enjoy a very high reputation. I mean not only with the wealthy, but with the laborious part of the population, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in cooking it properly. It is thus generally left on the hands of the butcher, and consequently sold cheap ; but I trust these receipts will occasion a change, and induce them to purchase those provisions which are now despised.

178. — Wash an ox heart in several waters, cut it in six pieces lengthways, like steak, lay a few slices of potatoes at the bottom of the pan, then a few slices of bacon, then the heart, then bacon again, and then potatoes over all ; a few slices of beef suet, instead of the bacon, if none handy ; it should be cut thin ; season as you fill up, add half a pint of water, bake one hoar, and serve.

179. — If a small heart, buy half an ox kidney, cut out the hard part, and divide it into small pieces, and mix it with the heart ; if you can get a cow-heel already boiled, which is the case in large towns, it may be added in pieces, omitting the bone.

180. Calves', Sheep's, Tigs, or Ox Heart, stewed wAofc**

1\ gOYER'S DAKTNG STEW1NG-PAIT.

Fill a heart, as for roasting, with stuffing, No. 456 . Put in 5

four quart pan a piece of fat bacon half an inch thick, and on H the heart, the thick part downwards ; cut into slices some potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions, and a piece of bacon cut in dice ; season it with three teaspoonfuls of salt and one o! pepper : fill up round the heart until the pan is full, put in a pint of water, and bake for two hours. A teaspoonful of sugar and three of browning may be added.

181. — Tongues, brains, and liver, ought to be set before

putting in the pot. The tongue should be boiled for ten minutes,

and then skinned. These may be done in the same way as the preceding.

182. — But supposing you have all these, and you wish to mix them together, then cut them into thin slices, leaving out the brain ; put them on a dish, and for every pound of meat season with one teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of flour ; then have one onion and half a pound of potatoes cut in slices to each pound of meat, and place in the pot as before, mixing the brain cut in pieces ; add half a pint of water to each pound of meat ; bake according to size.

Layers of suet pudding may be used instead of potatoes, and cover it with paste.

183. Good Plain Family Irish Stew. — Take about two pounds of scrag or neck of mutton ; divide it into ten pieces, lay them in the pan ; cut eight large potatoes and four onions in slices, season with one teaspoonful and a half of pepper, and three of salt ; cover all with water ; put it into a slow oven for two hours, then stir it all up well, and dish up in deep dishes. If you add a little more water at the commencement, you can take out when half done, a nice cup of broth.

The same simplified. — Put in a pan two pounds of meat as before, which lay at the bottom; cover them with eight whole onions, and these with twelve whole potatoes ; season as before ; cover over with water, and send to the oven for two hours.

Almost any part of the sheep can be used for Irish stew. k gallon pan is required for this and the preceding receipt.

ifiih O.v Tongue, Totted and Braized.— 1 send you thi;

SOYEftS BAKING STEWIXG-PAN. 75

feceipt as a bonne bouche, it being a dish worthy a first-class picnic or the race- course. Take a tongue from the pickle, and trash it clean ; cut off a part of the rough pieces of the root, put a thick slice of bacon at the bottom of the pan, and over that a pound of lean beefsteak or veal, and then the tongue turned round to fit the pan ; have a cow-heel, parboiled and ready boned, place it on the tongue, and cover it with another slice of bacon, and a slice of beef or veal ; season with two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little powdered ginger and cloves, one bay-leaf, one carrot sliced, and two onions sliced ; add two wineglassfuls of brandy or sherry, four of old ale, and one quart of water; cover well over, and put in a slow oven for three hours ; take off the cover, and put a piece of board with a weight on the top until cold, then the next day turn it out of the pan, which you can do by placing the pan in hot water. But should 3rou wish to use the tongue hot for dinner, take it out, and when done with it, put the remains in and press, as before described. The vegetables may be also pressed in with the meat or served hot round the tongue.

The remains of pickled ox tongues are very nice, intermixed and placed in a pan, and pressed, when they will turn out like collared head. A tongue boiled in plain water will take about two hours.

185. Ox Tongues, Fresh and Pickled. — Put in the pan, as above, add two carrots, four turnips, four cloves, ten small dumplings, (see No. 349,) fill the pan with water, add either a little bay-leaf, thyme, or winter savory; stew in an oven for three hours, trim and dish up with vegetables, and dumplings round, making soup of the broth. For fresh ox tongue, proceed as above, adding three teaspoonfuls of salt.

186. Veal. — Take two pounds of the leg of veal, or meat from the shoulder, or the neck or breast, in fact any part, cut in pieces ; season it with one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and a half ot pepper, and add a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in slices. To vary the seasoning, use herbs, (No. 451 ; It will also be very good with some suet pudding, previously boiled in small calls, if you omit either potatoes or stuffing. The pieces of veal should be rolled in flour ; add half a pint of water, if with potatoes, and more, if pudding or stuffing; bake one hour and a half, and serve. Mushrooms may be added.

7q soyers baking stewing-pan.

187. Purchase six calves' tails, and after Laving had them trashed, cut them about two inches in length, and took them as above, with the addition of more vegetables, as carrots turnips, &c. They arc excellent and nutritious thus.

188. — J3rown Ragout of Veal. — Take two pounds of the

breast, cnt it into rather small pieces, about the size of an egg, roll them well in flour, put some fat in the frying-pan, fry the meat until a nice brown, take it out, and then fry four onions, two turnips cut in large dice, and one carrot the same ; when brown take them out, put the veal and vegetables into pan, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, add a pint of water, to which has been added four teaspoonfuls of browning; put into oven for one hour, skim the fat, shake the pan, and serve. A few herbs and a little ham or bacon is an im- provement. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork may be done the same way. A teaspoonful of sugar is an improvement.

189. Fillet of Veal for an Extra J)inner. — A small fillet of veal, boned and stuff with No. 456; tie it up tight, put some fat into a fryingpan, about an inch deep; put in the fillet, fry gently until one side is brown, and then put in the otner side until brown; fry in the same pan some large button onions whole, some turnips and carrots, cut in pieces the size of eggs ; put the fillet into a pan, with a piece of fat bacon at the bottom; fill up round it with the vegetables; put another piece of bacon on the top, add some seasoning to the vege- tables, and a pint of water; put on the cover, so that the steam does not escape ; put it into a slow oven, giving a quarter of an hour for each pound weight. When served take out the fillet, put the gravy into a small basin, and skim off the fat ; pour the gravy over the veal, and either serve the vegetables round the fillet or separate. A little browning is an improve- ment.

190. The following is another favourite dish of mine : — It is to lard a calf's liver with about twenty pieces of bacon (see No. 450), put about a quarter of a pound of fat or dripping into a frying pan, fry for twenty minutes until of a nice brown colour, place it in the baking stew-pan, also fry a quarter of a pound oi hacon r.irt in dice, hventv large button onions, twenty pieces o/

SOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAN. 77

carrot, twenty of turnip ; when a nice colour throw two ounces of Hour over them, and stir ; three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a small one of pepper, two of sugar ; put all this into the pan, add three pints of hot coloured water No. 453 A, and a bunch of sweet herbs; shake the pan well, and place in oven for two hours ; skim the fat and serve. These preparations are for a large sized liver. Pig's, lamb's, and sheep's liver, is excellent done thus. You may place all the above ingredients in the baking pan without frying any; it will be very good, though not so savoury in flavour.

191. Deef-a-la-Modc. — Take a piece of the thick part of the rump of beef, about four pounds, not too fat ; take half a pound of fat bacon and a calf's foot ; cut the bacon into pieces about two inches long and half an inch square, lard the beef through with the bacon (see No. 450), place the beef in the pan, and also the foot, divided in two, and a bunch of sweet herbs, two middle- sized carrots, cut into squares, and twenty button onions, or four or six large ones, cut into slices ; add half a quartern of brandy, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, one pint of water, put the cover on the pan, to prevent the steam escaping, and send it to the baker's for three hours ; should it be done at home, turn the pan so that the heat is equal on all sides ; when done remove the fat from the top, put the beef in* a dish, with the foot on each side, and the carrots and onions round ; throw the gravy over ; take away the herbs. This, you may perceive, is a most exquisite dish, will keep good many days in winter, and five or six in summer. It is good cold.

192. The same plainer. — Proceed as above, adding half a pint of old ale instead of the brandy, or a wineglass of vinegar and an ox-foot instead of a calf's-foot. Any piece of the fleshy part of the ox is good done so.

193. The same, to be eaten cold. — Cut the beef into square pieces, of a quarter of a pound each, cut ten pieces of lean bacon three inches long, have a cowheel already boiled in about two quarts of water, with two onions, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar ; take the cowheel and remove all the bones, and place it, with the meat and bacon, in the pan, with the liquor in which the heel was boiled, two carrots cut into small dice, ten gherkins cut into slices, and s^t* to the oven for three hours \ take off the

78 soger's baking stewing-pan.

rover, and place a flat piece of board on the top of the meat, with a heavy weight, so as to make it firm ; and when cold use it. It is very good for breakfast. To remove it from the pan place the pan in hot water for a few minutes, and turn it over ; it will come out easily, and cut like brawn, or it may be cut from the pan.

194. Leg, Breast, Scrag, and Head of Lamb. — These may nil be done as follows : — Put it into a gallon pan, with one carrot, two turnips, one leek, cut in thick slices, thirty young button onions whole, three teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, cover with water, and set it on the fire, or in your oven for one hour ; at the end of one hour put in one pint of peas, a little green mint, and a teaspoonful of sugar ; set it by the side of the fire or in the oven for half an hour longer, and serve. This is for a leg or joint of five pounds weight; for a larger one take a little longer time. A bunch of parsley and sweet-herbs may be added, but should be removed when served. The flavour is exquisite, and may be served with vegetable or with- out, as liked, but then the broth should be strained, and the vegetables served separate, or the broth made into spring or other soups.

195. TorTc. — Any part, not too fat, is exceedingly good done in this" way : Cut two pounds in slices, rather large and thin, season with salt and pepper, then add a few slices of fat, then some slices of potatoes, then pork and then potatoes, until all is in ; add half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half.

196. Another way with Apple. — Cut the pork in thick pieces, peel two baking apples, four onions, and eight potatoes, cut them in slices, season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little powdered sage, intermix the vegetables, lay the slices and the vegetables together, half a pint of water, or enough to cover it. Bake two hours and serve.

197. Another, simpler. — When in a great hurry proceed thus : •—Put in a dish two pounds of pork in slices, one onion, one pound of potatoes, also sliced ; two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, one of flour ; mix all well together, pat it in the pan with half a pint of water. Bake one hour and a half. A little bone may be used with the meat.

193. Salt Pork with Peas, — Take two pounds of the bell}

soyer's BAKING BTEWHTG-l IK. 79

of pork, eut into large dice, wash half a pint of split peas, put them into a three-quart pan, with some pepper, and half a carrot cut in small pieces, fill it up with cold water, send it to the oven for two hours, stir up the peas well before serving. A few vegetables may be introduced. Rice may be used instead of peas.

199. Salt Pork may be used thus : Take a four-quart pan, cut up the pork and some greens, remove the stalk, slice them, uid also add four onions sliced, four cloves, and one teaspoonful of pepper ; press it well down ; put over it a quarter of a pound of dripping, add a pint of water, and stew ior three hours ; a little salt may be added if the pork is not salt enough ; it will make an excellent soup if filled up with water half an hour previous to using.

Eed cabbage may also be used, but first boiled for ten minutes in plain water ; then add half a pint of vinegar and twelve peppercorns, if handy.

200. Grreen Peas and Pork. — Put a piece of salt pork, about two pounds, into pan, with a quart of peas ; fill up with water, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of sugar, two onions ; bake for three hours. Salt beef is also good ; a little mint may be added. Three pints of large peas alone, with a little dripping, is good as above.

201. Cabbage and Pork. — Cut two good Savoy cabbages in thin slices, wash them, put half in pan, then a piece of pork about two pounds, or either ham, bacon, or salt beef; season as foregoing receipt, add the remainder of the cabbage ; season again ; add, if you have it, four cloves, or pepper corns, four onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs : do not fill it with water* to the brim, or it will boil over. Eed cabbage may be used the same way, only adding half a pint of vinegar, and if beef, two ounces of dripping.

202. Haricot beans and other pulse may be done precisely the same way. In fact, all dried pulse may be here used, and I cannot too strongly recommend both the dried haricot beans and lentils. I have also latterly tried the dried green pea, well soaked for twenty hours, and dressed as haricots and lentils. 1 find that one pint absorbs two quarts of water. It makes an agreeable as well as economical food.

80 gOYERS BAKING STEWING-PAK.

203. Beef and Boric. — Semi- Carthusian Fashion. — Sausage^ cerrelas, saveloys, beef sausages, knuckles of ham, and salted pig's feet and tongue, which are daily to be obtained in London, may be dressed in this way : Buy two good savoys or white cabbages, cut them in four, take out the hard stalk, and boil them for ten minutes in water ; place them in a dish to drain ; cut the quarters vgain into four, lay some at the bottom of the pan, then a feu sausages and saveloys, season with salt and pepper, and the a fill up the pan; then add two ounces of dripping or suet, half a pint of water, bake one hour and a half, and serve with cabbage under, and sausages on the top.

Eed cabbage with saveloys are preferable ; then add one gill of vinegar, a few peppercorns ; stew them longer, and serve as above. I have tried with raw cabbage ; it is not bad, and saves time.

Two or three onions sliced may be added, or one large Spanish onion.

This receipt will do for pig's feet, knuckles of ham, trimmings of ham or pork, a piece of cooked brisket of beef, which is generally sold underdone, in which case the cabbage should be done first.

Sheeps' and pigs' tongues are very good done in this way, and they make a cheap and wholesome meal.

204. Large Dutch Babbits. — Put into a one gallon pan a rabbit, cut into about eighteen or twenty pieces; peel eight onions, twenty potatoes cut into thin slices ; also half a pound of bacon cut into dice, season with salt and pepper, then place the meat and potatoes in layers, add nearly a pint of water ; cover over and bake two hours ; shake the pan round and serve.

205. Curry Babbits. — Proceed as above; only add to the water two teaspoonfuls of curry powder; let it well mix, or season with it at the same time as the other seasoning.

The same may be done with rice instead of potatoes, but use two quarts of water to every pound of rice. One pound of good rice ought to weigh five pounds when boiled.

206. Blain Babbit, Chickens, or Pigeons for Invalids. — The rabbit should be cut into nice pieces; the chicken in quarters ; the pigeons into halves ; place it in a two-quart pan,

SEE! -ROASTING IN BAKING STEWJNO-PAto. 81

with a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice, a little salt and pepper ; a few sprigs of parsley, and half a pint of water, if the pan is not quite full ; fill up with some small pieces of veal ; put a plain paste over all, No. 317 ; put cover close over, and bake one hour. Skim the fat off, and serve.

HOW TO USE THE PAN FOR SEMI-ROASTING.

The deep tin dish at the bottom of the pan is to contain either pudding, gravy, or vegetables, the grating above is to lay any meat, poultry, fish, or game on, you wish to cook by this process.

207. Bibs of Beef semi-roasted. — Purchase two ribs of beef, Done them, then season the interior of the meat with salt and pepper; roll the meat round like a cheese, using a piece of string or a skewer to keep it in that position ; make a quart of batter, as No. 462 \ put it in your pan, which previously well grease ; put the grating over, and lay your meat on it, surround- ing it with potatoes either whole or cut ; allowing from twelve to fifteen minutes for each pound of meat, according to the state of the oven. Dish up the beef with the potatoes round, and serve the pudding in the tin, or turn it out on a dish. The beef may be stuffed with stuffing, No. 456.

Nothing is more objectionable to me than to see salt put on the top of a roast joint, and water poured over to make the gravy. The only way to remedy this is to put a gill of boiling water and a little salt on the hot dish you intend putting the meat on, turning the joint in it once during the interval of a minute ; and, whilst carving, the juice from the meat will mingle with it and make a good gravy. Half a teaspoonful of colouring, much improves its appearance. This is applicable to all roasted or semi-roasted joints.

For large ribs of beef or sirloins, you can put the salt on the tones at the back of the joint, and pour half a pint of boiling water over ; not however disturbing the meat.

Brown gravy, No. 2, or broth, No. 1, will be found pre- ferable to either of the above.

208. Mutton semi-roasted. — Half a leg of mutton, about .our pounds, potatoes and pudding, if liked, under, will take about one hour. Shoulder the same.

209. Pork semi-roasted. — Place in the bottom four tipples, peeled, four onions sliced, and potatoes, and over that a joint of

£a SEMI-KOASTING IN BAKING STEW1NG-Pa*T.

pork, rubbed with salt and pepper; sprinkle a little sage; add aalf a pint of water in the pan : bake for two hours.

For a change, pork should be purchased the day before usinsj covering it all over with salt ; and then scrape it well before cook- ing it, makes it eat short and savoury.

210. Lamb semi-roasted. — Boil some spinach in salt and water, drain it well, and chop it up; put it in the pan, sea- soned with salt and pepper; put potatoes over the grating, and then the joint of lamb ; small ribs or shoulder will take an hour ; leg, one hour and thirty minutes. Dish it up with the spinach separate, the fat having been removed from it. Greens of any kind may be done in the same manner, particularly the young leaf of the white beet, which is an excellent substitute for spinach, or even chopped nettles: these are also good under pork, real, or beef, as also is a Yorkshire pudding, as at ribs of beef, No. 207.

211. Poultry femi-roasted. — Almost any kind of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, celery, or mushrooms, may be put raw in the pan and cooked under poultry, as well as cabbage, spinach, or greens, previously boiled and chopped.

1st Lesson. — Pluck, draw, and stuff a middle-sized fowl ; peel and cut in middling- sized pieces about half a pound of carrots, the same of turnips ; place them in the pan with half a pint of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half of pepper ; put the grating over, placing the fowl on it, surrounding it with peeled potatoes, season a little more, bake for an hour, and serve ; also rub a little butter or fat over the breast, or cover it with a few slices of bacon ; a little colouring may be added to the gravy.

This receipt is applicable to all kinds of birds, game, or poultry, allowing about ten minutes baking to every pound of large poultry or game, and the smaller ones in proportion.

212. Rabbits, stuffed, put sliced onions in the bottom of the pan. if liked, or boiled rice, previously seasoned, and a bit of butter, &c. ; put half a pint of water ; bake thirty-five or fifty minutes, according to size, and serve.

If any joint happens to be too fat, it will not do to put a Yorkshire pudding under, as the fat would prevent it setting but if either greens, boiled rice, or potatoes, are added, you will be able to press the fat off with the back of a spoon, or a plate, or the vegetable presser, (see Appendix,) and serve separately.

FOYER'S BAKING STEWING- PAN. 83

To semi-roast a Joint with gravy only. — Pat in th^ pari hall a pint of water, together with half a teaspoonful of salt, halt that of pepper. When done, take off the fat, add a little colour* ing, pour under the joint, and serve.

USEFUL HINTS ON THE PIG.

Once or twice a year every cottager ought to kill a pig. If a pig is washed and kept clean, it softens the skin and allows it to expand ; in fact, a pig thus treated comes much quicker round ; it is proved that a pig at fourteen months, kept clean, is equal to one at eighteen which is not attended to. The same day some of the liver may be fried, but the rest can be used in the pan as follows : —

213. Cut it into large dice; put two ounces of fat or dripping into frying-pan, cut up a quarter of a pound of bacon into small dice, fry them for five minutes, and then shake over a teaspoonful of flour, put in the liver, with one teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, fry it for five minutes, add a gill